Oz07

Maybe someone else would like to chip in but 20mm is probably okay. Google search for "maximum thickness sand blinding layer"

On most drawings you get told to use a sand blinding layer, not sure anyone ever really goes as thick as 20mm though. Maybe a couple of bags of cement raked into it if you were overly worried?

homesearch.co.uk isn't a bad tool for research. I'm a bit dubious of these free websites though. What info are they selling to the agents? I do also wonder if agents have access to your list of saved properties on rightmove app if you make enquiry?

probably fine, maybe erring on a bit to thick. Split the difference?

That website is out by probably 100% in my area atm. What are others seeing?

No problem with doing as you say. Be a bit fiddly and you need your fascia to be thick enough to get a fixing ontop. Also clear path as Mr punter says. My place has treated timber sub fascia with over fascia vents on these. The capping fascia slightly blocks the airflow but it's a full hipped roof with ridge vents so like a cyclone in the loft.

This is like a heavyweight battle. The Welsh Dragon has his belts on the line but the up and comer is giving as good as he gets. It would help if I understood any of what is being said!

They were good 10 years ago when they had transparent pricing and quoted you a mini mix rate per cube and an over 4m3 rate per cube. They've all gotten greedy now and want to quote you based on exact amount. You struggle to nail down what your paying per m3 if you're not sure how much your having which kind of defeats the object in a way.

I'd be getting them to re fit for free if so based on them manufacturing too big out of tolerance. Eat some humble pie and buy your builder a crate of beer to grind off all the mortar or whatever he built it up with

Will your threshold still be level with floor finish if you remove all (or most) of packing underneath them?

There is a certain volumetric outfit near me that always tick the added water on site box even if you dont. I sussed them on the last job and told them I wasn't signing. Its just so if ever there is a quality issue down the line they don't cop the blame. Arse covering.

My god what an interesting tale. Builder will love recounting that down the pub. Be interesting to see what tolerance your 11k door company work to. I can appreciate a brickie getting an 8ft opening quarter of an inch too high, especially if rsj out of level. For a door company to survey after aperture is built, tell you the hole is wrong size then still make door 4mm too big I think it's their problem! Bet they wouldn't want to replace £££

Has anyone here just comsidered a boiling water tap and doing away with dhw to kitchen

Lol-sorry couldnt help my self

Never got that far into it. Fair play for being so detailed. Most just spec a maximum deflection.

Minimix not man enough for u mate

spoil from the nearest spoil heap. I think it depends how wet your ground is likely to be. @nod concreted and put drains in his but never seen it done around my area

What a jobsworth

Too late for OP but I prefer as i've laid drains extend all your pipes up by 1m. Bung them from the closest IC then fill up and leave while BCO visits for DPC. Discuss with him and get him to tick his box that drains are tested job done.

Shouldn't you measure off a garden tap? I thought appliance taps were restricted nowadays?

How much of a difference do these make compared to a dry airated brickette?

20l min wouldn't be so bad where I am. Last place only just got 10

Clad your house with roofing batten, job done

How would you apportion blame to silicone or faulty gasket seal?

Most new builds I'm in have a dpc between block and concrete floor with these blocks sitting ontop not coming up through. I'm not sure if they align with beams underneath or have some massive cold bridge with a wall underneath the beams interrupting the insulation? Must pay more attention next time when a plot is pre pour.