Oz07

I think pear stairs ask you to sign a disclaimer if the design breaches building regs in any way. Different kettle of fish to a bespoke high cost jobby but I would assume same rules apply?

How will the wall be finished plastered around?

where's the window?

A movement joint would look neater than a crack. I know what i'd do

Depends on invert level surely? If existing low enough then a trench out the ground with the correct amount of pea gravel under and around. It's what happens under a block and beam

I have recently used a contractor to balance a MVHR system and am not entirely convinced it has been done correctly. I am happy to be proved wrong so if anyone could point to any resources which show I am mistaken I will be just as happy as if the opposite is true? So firstly they came out to balance the system. A certificate was sent out with the wrong floor area and missing a supply terminal in the figures. I contacted contractor and they said would sort. New certificate comes out with right floor area and 3rd bedroom supply added on. I have a few issues. The measured airflow on the supply side is higher on low setting than on boost on the initial cert, and dead level on the updated one. Considering the fan speeds on boost are at 50 something % compared to 30 something % on low I find this unlikely? On the initial cert the total of the supply figures was pretty much level with the total of the extract, within .1 l/s. The new cert shows the new room added onto the supply side but now the total l/s of these figures is out by over 10% compared to extract. The property has 3 bedrooms so it doesn't seem to comply with the building regs doc F Table 1.3. Overall i'm not too precious about this as I think the minimum rates have been achieved on wet rooms and kitchens. I am suspicious that on the initial certificate despite missing a supply terminal the overall supply and extract figures were balanced to within .1l/s and on the new certificate they are out. I have contacted contractor and he is insistent the supply & extract figures don't have to match up for the system to be balanced. He says it complies with building regs which I don't doubt (ish, excluding table 1.3) but when I engaged it was for the system to be balanced. Initial cert Updated Cert

Yes tbf they usually spray any ive had done. Suppose thats why ive never seeen the polythene

Ive never covered a slab with polythene before but am open to ideas. Does it give a much better end product?

How can it be better with all the technology nowadays. Have they engineered the materials to minimum acceptable spec?

How do they fit just squash in around the edges? I was also recommended these https://www.i-sells.co.uk/mob/prod_detail.php?cPath=1599_178&products_id=51229&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxriIsYSI_gIVGO3tCh2V3QxSEAQYASABEgLSnfD_BwE I think your link is better 30 quid for 10 filters. I did think maybe i could just get some kind of filter medium behind the metal grill of the cooker hood but before the carbon filter. Has anyone modded their cooker hood in this way to trap more grease there?

I got a good one off amazon for 62 quid the other day. Its the tfa dostmann one which logs previous readings for 12 hrs. I think the list is around 80 quid I paid 62. Interesting to take round the house with you and see what the bedrooms say in the morning but you do become a bit of slave to it. Where did you get your mvhr unit for 500 that seems cheap

You're overthinking it. Everyone in the trade just calls them 90's I bet you get 5 deg or more of play in a fitting ...Sorry just re read been covered already

Yeh I have the same setup and wouldn't say we cook a lot of greasy food either. There's no problem with my unit but have you ever took the ceiling valve off and looked behind it in the kitchen? I cleaned ours yesterday and it was a bit greasy inside. I'd like to just have some kind of filter medium in there which stops it working it's way back into the duct work.

What does everyone use to stop grease getting into the kitchen extract ductwork? I have the following extract valves https://www.bpcventilation.com/125mm-airflow-pvc-extract-valve and its connected to a 125mm box in the ceiling with a double connection to the ductwork. Are there different valves you can get with grease filter built in? Or is it a case of bodging some grease filter inside the box and changing it every so often? Be interested to see others solutions I had a quick search online but nothing obvious came up.

Not sure but when I have a 30 min shower the last thing on my mind is energy or emissions. I could be brown bread tomorrow. I think a certain amount is good as you end up with a comfortable home. Likewise next time I build and whack aircon in I won't be bullied into feeling guilty by moody teenage girls

This forum will always be biased to low energy usage. There are a lot here that have invested considerable time and effort to make their houses as efficient as possible. Nothing wrong with that but whether it makes pure financial sense when it's so cheap to heat houses I'm not so sure. I can't see gas going anywhere any time soon in Leicestershire I would bet the majority of our housing stock is solid wall with terrible efficiency.

Labour prices gone up 3% on site I'm on atm. House prices up 13% y.o.y haha

I know this is nothing to do with the sunamp but the more I hear about these the less appealing they seem. Never seem to hear any good news about them

I had 1.19 and I thought it converted to around .6ach but I could be wrong. I think I googled some conversion? Your blower door man should of known it was a good figure he would of had to close up all the holes in his door bar one. The guy I used was about creaming his pants but he was used to doing bog standard newbuilds

7n only usually used on 3 storey. SE knows best but you can ask the question

scaffold boards and re sell when done

I thought building regs stipulated minimum 30mm overhang into cavity? If I understand you right and inside of your Windows flush with back of brickwork you need to push them in further.

Never done it but ringshanks sound best to me. Quicker and will close the gap. Sometimes screws don't pull both pieces tight if wrong screw or technique

I think they put antifreeze in them don't they?

Any you're diving straight back in. Fair play!