craig

Let me know, I can have our subcontractor attend who is based in Plymouth. He'd charge for the call out but would give honest feedback.

Isn't that the truth. You try to remember everything, you ensure your guys are prepared and one simple tick box can cause a multitude of sins.

You need an independent inspection, it's difficult to be critical or not, without seeing things in person. I'm not 100% familiar with the Rehau window system, but your section detail is wrong from the pictures I'm looking at. It's for an outward opening window and your door is inward opening and the window looks like a fixed window. From what I can gather the highlighted section in yellow on a window should be siliconed in, as the drainage is at the front edge & doesn't cause any issues. What does cause issues, is these cill extensions if they are not sitting on a solid base, if floating in the air and some stands on them the they will flex. The silicon will detach and issues you see in image 1 occur. I don't know the window / door system used but presume S706 - if yes, then here's the door detail. You need a 3rd party visit, you need the installer/supplier to agree to this and to cover the costs of this. They will generate a report for you they will not tell you any findings there and then but will happily chat with you, where are you located?

The regulations do not “insist” on trickle vents in windows, what it refers to is controllable background ventilation and talks about trickle vents as that’s the most common method. If you have for example “night ventilation” within the window, which is common in European tilt and turn windows. You can argue your case. You can also argue your case on how that background ventilation is occurring. Reference Scottish Building Regulations https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-technical-handbook-2019-domestic/3-environment/3-14-ventilation/ Reference English Building Regulations Approved Document F https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/468871/ADF_LOCKED.pdf @Oz07 happens more often than you think. They are never checked, they are eye balled.

Thank's @Bitpipe size is relative to what is comfortably operation wise. We can do 1 fixed 1 slide, 6490 x 2650. The max sash weight for the sliding section is going to be 400KG. You can increase this weight and therefore the size, by using a double gearing setup and or electrical operation but electrical operation adds a fair amount of cost. External venetian blinds have a maximum span width of 4000mm, so the above sliding door would need two external blind boxes split equally. A lift and slide 4 fields (2 slide, 2 fixed) 12850 x 2650, again same rules apply and would need 4 blind boxes. The biggest issue that needs to be taken into account, is the span. Sliding doors are not weight bearing in anyway and cannot have deflection from above compressing the head of the slider. So the deflection in steel needs to be taken into account.

95% leaning towards a ventilation issue rather than a unit failure.

Do you have a detail? Snapshot of this would be great. Optimal is within the insulation layer. Edited to add thermal modelling of a detail we are currently working on.

Yes Yes but I can't speak for every suppliers products/standard hardware.

Few factors exist, type/loading etc. I have 3 lift and slide doors side by side, spanning 17 metres. Weighing approx 400KG each, sitting directly on top of compacfoam without any issues.

Certificates are usually issued within 2 weeks of a Fensa registered installer installing the windows, 2 months if they are non fensa registered. Have you checked to see if they are Fensa registered? https://www.fensa.org.uk/homeowners enter relevant info requested. If not listed, they are not registered.

Was it Glenn?

They should. Depends on what the package being offered indicates, some may not take this on at all.

Yes they should but that's a light colour to be honest, the suns rays react with the lighter lacquers "burning" it off a lot quicker than darker lacquers. The maintenance on light lacquers (should be) is to maintain them once a year or you will see them degrade a lot quicker and warranties voided. It will be in the warranty information supplied by the manufacturer. The amount of water that these are experiencing would indicate that once a year at a minimum is required. Also visible external hinging, I would be concerned at the lifespan of this, considering the amount of water being experienced on them.

That's unfortunate and not a lot you can do with it now in all honesty. However, I would recommend squirting Illbruck FM330 in the gaps and on the inner side 15mm - 7/12 TP600 compriband. You can't do a lot at the blocks other than trim the compriband. Then over that I would apply ME508 airtightness tape. I would also suggest buying ME902 primer before sticking the airtightness tape onto the blockwork. He has something running up vertically, not sure what type of tape it is but it doesn't look like it is doing anything tbh.

A cracking house and occupants, thank you for your hospitality over the past couple of years and being "my pit stop" for a coffee on my way home.

Needs a multi choice option. Compriband and PU foam, all day long. Anyone thats seals between window and building with silicone, needs a boot in the b*ws. As for no difference in price, sh*te. Compriband is significantly dearer than PU foam, both are significantly dearer than silicone. They’ve marked up significantly on material if they’re doing that.

Last pane of glass I looked to order was in October. 8 weeks we were told from a London glass supplier, ordered from Austria and delivered in 3. New build just at the back of me, have been waiting for windows for a considerable time. Should have been weather tight two months ago, whole build has ground to a halt. Other plot got foundations done, blocks built for lower ground and that’s now ground to a halt.

Only issues that we have experienced, is glass lead times in the UK are a lot longer than anticipated normally.

Every individual pane must be marked. UK supplied glass will be kite marked. European glass will be marked with EN number generally on spacer bar sometimes on glass.

I don’t see why another type of bonding agent wouldn’t work. You won’t have warranty as you haven’t followed the guidelines for assembly.

Primer, prime the area and then the self adhesve tapes will stick. No primer, tapes will peel (even with a mastic).

The problem is that the seal is broken because the door is open. So the handle is taken from pointing directly up to directly down, which engages the wheels and lifts the sash up. No locks engaged and the door can be slid open. It doesn't occur when the door is locked. As it is on a South Westerly elevation and set back as well, wind is coming through the the gaps and the whistle effect is occurring and might even be more prominent because it is setback. It is only resolved by locking the door and engaging the locks, which engages the seal. As discussed with Ian just now, what can be done, is try and put a wind deflector on the frame, preventing the wind driving up the gaps when the door is physically open but not locked.

Yes, each manufacturer will have one and guideline supplied by GGF for example. They will vary slightly but generally they are the same. Not being fitted to factories recommendations, will void warranties. Issue Nick experienced was something else entirely.

I’d love to supply British made but 1: VAT 2: Quality 3: Performance The UK market is still stuck on cheap and cheerful uPVC. Those that are making decent windows are buying in European profiles.

No need to apologise, you win some you lose some. When it’s fair it’s fair. When they (other suppliers) “buy” themselves the work, there isn’t much that can be done. I wish you well with the project and here if you need any help/advice.