Bonner

Might be simpler to acquire the land under a separate title, no need to merge it with your existing plot?

Pot plants?

I thought the same but both electric and water companies said I had to have a separate connection to their mains, on the other side of the road. Be prepared, it may not be as easy as you are hoping for ...

Hi, I think you need to be posting in the Joinery section then you might get a better response

Our architect designed from the inside out, starting with internal layout, location and size of doors and windows for views, access to garden etc. This is one of the principles of Le Corbusier. Then the external envelope was designed around the space, to fit in with the local vernacular with a modern twist.

Lots of support for this ‘replacement dwelling’ although I don’t think “I support proposal for new hotel” helped much ? http://docs.west-lindsey.gov.uk/publisher/mvc/listDocuments?identifier=Planning&CaseNumber=140180&_ga=2.245869060.1664120275.1613068816-1077606281.1612817331

My architect has specified the windows to sit across the 100mm cavity. Not sure how this will work with cavity closer and fixings yet.

This is resonance where the amplitude of vibration increases at the natural frequency. Any part of the structure can resonate, the fan, bearing, housing, case or some other part which is in contact. To rule out resonance of any part of the structure you need to try to damp the vibration while it is running at 25%. You can do this by simply putting your hand on the part (if safe to do so), bracing it or adding mass. If you can’t damp out the vibration, either the fan is out of balance or the bearing worn.

@scottishjohn, have you thought about inviting Kevin along to share your trials and tribulations ?

The electricity DNO is being quite helpful in my case, they are happy to throw a duct in the trench. Water need to do the dig because they go deeper but they are not willing (at the moment...) to ‘install others assets’ ? I am not giving up, just need to find the right person the speak to in the water supplier, also getting the council highways involved because they don’t want an A road closed twice!

I am currently trying to get the water and electric suppliers to collaborate in a road crossing, which is not easy ? I looked at getting others to do the non contestable work, nobody was interested in such a small job (must be approved contractors). As above, the utility companies must do their own connections.

It depends on the particular species so you will need expert advice. Critical factors are time of year, size of root ball you can move and if the plant will recover from hard pruning. The latter is important to reduce the shock load on the root stock, if it can be cut back to near the ground that would give it the best chance.

It depends on the sensitivity of the area (conservation area, AONB, etc.) and the local vernacular. Your front gable is significantly wider than all the others so I can see where they are coming from. Having said that, if it is not in a sensitive area, they won’t have legitimate ground to refuse. I recently had some challenges from the planners about my design. After a lot of sleepless nights, I decided not to compromise and the planners immediately relented.

Suggest you need a supply to the dining area for better distribution and balance the extracts

I have looked at this before and still thinking about making one eventually. In this country you have to think of it as a pond which you can occasionally take a dip in high summer. If you try to heat it without loads of chemicals the water will turn green with algae, some types of which are harmful to health.

I know someone who had a similar restriction but (whoops) the structure fell down. They promised to restore the same building envelope which the planners accepted. I was frustrated for these people, who through their honesty had to do a lot more work than necessary.

Looks good. Have you calculated the centre of buoyancy?? Please send photo when it’s on the pond ?

Not sure, it was in an old house about 12 years ago. I will have a look later.

I have seen this before, waterproofing causes the rain to run off so it soaks the untreated brickwork below. Treating the whole wall may be the only solution.

I had the Clearview which was excellent. Fully welded steel construction but still a few noises as it warmed up. These were not at all intrusive, just part of the character of a real fire.

I have used towel radiators with electric elements connected to central heating and stand alone. Stand alone rads were filled with water, with or without inhibitor (sealed system so corrosion won’t be an issue). Leave an air space for expansion as mentioned by @Onoff

£1800 inc VAT for my building regs drawings but they are the basic minimum to get building control approval, very little construction detail. This leaves a lot to work out with the builder, and potentially go wrong ... depends how much you want to fix in the drawings

Thanks @nod, I will have a word with the architect, definitely don’t want the cladding proud of the brickwork it would look so wrong!

Morning All, I am looking for ideas to improve a cladding detail on our plans. Just received building control drawings from the architect. The section shown is a timber clad section over the (recessed) main entrance door. It is brick either side so they have replaced the brick with block and put the cladding on that. I would prefer the cladding to be set back from the brick face by 3-4 inches. Is there any way to do that while keeping the inner block in the same line? Thinking timber framing packed with insulation, vapour barrier, then lath and cladding?

Not looked into Telcom myself yet as I am concentrating on building supplies. I also have a pole near the corner of my plot so assuming it will be straightforward. The neighbour who converted a barn next door said it was the easiest one to sort out, just want to make sure it can go in the same trench as water and electric on site so we don’t have to dig another.