Bonner

Shouldn’t be silicone but that may explain why it needs refilling. Epoxy filler with a little pigment (maybe experiment by mixing a tiny bit of cement?).

I used cheap flexible frame sealant from Screwfix and duct tape.

We had a similar debate about 2 or 3 panels. Went for triple with bifolds in the end. Two panels didn’t look right and we wanted bifolds anyway. @craig knows a bit about glazing systems! By the way (and I know you didn’t ask), not sure about the cat slide roof, can’t it slope towards the back. This could look better and also reduce the amount of glazing.

That’s me after a glass of wine, no undersanding Problem I find with tall bookcases is wobble. No matter how little deflection in the joists, a tall piece of furniture will move to some degree. I always secure them to the wall for security, thereby sharing the load with the wall.

I agree with all the other posts, beware and be fair!

Building regs have two measures, one for ‘wet’ rooms and one for whole house. Do the sums and see what comes out. As a guide, my place is 280m2 and I have installed a 350m3/hr unit but not tested or signed of yet!

Link just takes me to general search page

I have got BT2 fixed vertically, I think BT1 is for horizontal cladding.

That is a fine detail not on our drawings, something the joiner has to work out in situ. Haven’t got a picture but basically he made a timber frame (Larch in our case) top and sides with the bottom being the cill.

What type of windows have you got? You could draft proof the original door relatively easily. Personally I would want to retain at least a bit of the original character of the house.

Not sure if radiators will be really needed but don’t want to risk it. Also thinking of future resale. Installer has specified oversized double radiators but I won’t be going that far, normal singles and large towel radiators for bathrooms.

Bit late this reply ... just wondering how you got on with tweaking flow temperatures? I am having a Grant 13kW installed under the BUS. Installer will set flow temperature to 45C for the upstairs radiators, to comply with MCS. Since radiators are unlikely to be needed much if at all, I intend to reduce flow temperature to optimise COP.

I would still talk through these issues with the neighbours first, they may have been misled by architect/planning consultants. Nevertheless it does seem unlikely they are going to change the plans at this late stage. I am not aware of any templates, I would just look at examples in the local planning applications. Maybe focus on conservation areas where planning consultants are more likely to be involved. My in laws live in (Royal) Hillsborough, worth looking at some of the planning applications which seem to be approved despite widespread objections.

Well done her! However beware of future claims of ‘my workshop’ 😆

Looks like a sheet metal nibbler, or is it designed specifically for slate?

I agree, lots of what if’s ... all windows are lockable, is that allowed for fire escape?

I have the same problem, first floor windows at 600mm from floor level ... but several are fire escape windows. Can I get an opening restrictor which also allows escape in an emergency (acceptable to BC)?

Jigsaw with these blades. Bit bendy but work surprisingly well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Jigsaw-Blade-155-204345/dp/B07M6PKLCS/ref=asc_df_B07M6PKLCS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7100560651268759544&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006876&hvtargid=pla-872783453695&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=85363719810&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7100560651268759544&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006876&hvtargid=pla-872783453695

In theory, yes each radiator should be on it’s own branch. In practice radiator valves are used to throttle the flow in balancing the system so you might get away with just having these radiator valves opened more. Depends on the size of radiator, length of piping, pump pressure etc, etc. As you can tell there is no easy answer without going through a full system design. Also depends on your appetite for working on the heating system mid winter if it doesn’t work!

Hello and welcome. Feel free to share what you are building, helps to get the best advice

All edges, reduces cold bridging and allows the screed to expand.

I did something similar but I used 120mm boards which were cheaper than 100+20 at the time. Levelled some areas with a dry mix. Screed ended up 40-50mm thick which is fine with UFH.

Far too formal for most builders IMO. You could be putting off many small contractors. First approach should be phone call followed by site visit and a drawing. Then you get into detail with interested parties.

It might take a week to learn the basics but years to become proficient. Might be worth it if you have many small jobs to do like on a refurb. Not worth trying to build a house unless you are doing it full time over several years.

Since it’s on a corner, I would replace brick 1 first as you suggest.