Bonner

I have the same problem, first floor windows at 600mm from floor level ... but several are fire escape windows. Can I get an opening restrictor which also allows escape in an emergency (acceptable to BC)?

Jigsaw with these blades. Bit bendy but work surprisingly well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Jigsaw-Blade-155-204345/dp/B07M6PKLCS/ref=asc_df_B07M6PKLCS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7100560651268759544&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006876&hvtargid=pla-872783453695&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=85363719810&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7100560651268759544&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006876&hvtargid=pla-872783453695

In theory, yes each radiator should be on it’s own branch. In practice radiator valves are used to throttle the flow in balancing the system so you might get away with just having these radiator valves opened more. Depends on the size of radiator, length of piping, pump pressure etc, etc. As you can tell there is no easy answer without going through a full system design. Also depends on your appetite for working on the heating system mid winter if it doesn’t work!

Hello and welcome. Feel free to share what you are building, helps to get the best advice

All edges, reduces cold bridging and allows the screed to expand.

I did something similar but I used 120mm boards which were cheaper than 100+20 at the time. Levelled some areas with a dry mix. Screed ended up 40-50mm thick which is fine with UFH.

Far too formal for most builders IMO. You could be putting off many small contractors. First approach should be phone call followed by site visit and a drawing. Then you get into detail with interested parties.

It might take a week to learn the basics but years to become proficient. Might be worth it if you have many small jobs to do like on a refurb. Not worth trying to build a house unless you are doing it full time over several years.

Since it’s on a corner, I would replace brick 1 first as you suggest.

They may be asking for more drawings to justify exceeding the target decision time. Just give them the drawing requested, a traffic survey is unlikely to be taken into consideration.

Not sure which regulation you are looking at but most builders would just drill the joists where needed. You should avoid the middle third of the span where bending stress is highest and always drill mid-depth (neutral axis). What size joists and pipes?

Have you got an alternative quotation? That would help you to negotiate payment terms! I often find first quotes are heavily weighted in the supplier’s favour as they need to manage their cash flow and risk. I would want the pre-manufacturing deposit as small as possible and protected by credit card. The 40% on completion of manufacturing and issue of a ‘vesting’’ certificate of title to the goods. This will help take possession in case the supplier goes into administration. Finally, maximum possible retention until after delivery and erection.

+2 for the steels, we have one in our 280sq.m 5 bed house. Never seen so many sliding doors, is that something you really want or architect’s idea? The one in the snug slides into a curved wall?! Related to bathroom comments, not liking the soil pipes in the dining room, acoustic or not! Whats going on between the dining room and snug, is there a hidden door behind a bookcase?

Okay, the ‘gap’ is finger width but is that a normal joint where the mortar has fallen out? Or is that joint significantly wider than other parts of the DPC course? Again it is very difficult to assess from a photo, wait for the SE to confirm. In the meantime don’t worry too much but think about what course of action to take in case he says it’s structural (almost anything can be fixed, at a price).

Difficult to see but it might only be pointing issue. If the DPC has been laid a bit proud, it splits the joint. The rest of the pointing looks weak so it could be related. Are there any actual gaps you can see, or cracks through bricks?

Engineered wood is better for stability. Solid oak can twist so much that the door won’t close properly. Drafts/air leakage is more of an issue than U-value.

Are you thinking oak? I would have thought 6” softwood would be a bit too flexi. I would go for 8” posts in any case just because they would look more substantial.

You could save on the excavation but it would need separating out from the cable lay and done according to their specification/instructions. Worth a conversation with their engineer (not the estimating team!)

Yes the fees are appropriate and reasonable. Doesn’t matter that the land is owned by the family, the DNO needs to ensure the legal rights are established. Do they mention contestable works? You can get an alternative quote for trenching etc. (or do it yourself).

Yes, that bit should go That’s crossing the fine line I mentioned … by a country mile 😬

That is a matter of taste but I think it adds character to the room, although there is a fine line between characterful and just naff, the devil is in the detail. As suggested, get rid of the plinth to the side then you will find out what the vent is for.

In conclusion, electronic warfare test and iron pipe thread. If these don’t make sense, it would help to know the specific subject of the drawing and maybe a snip of the relevant part.

The US also have list specifically for drawings and standards https://www.expresscorp.com/uploads/specifications/33/MIL-STD-12D.pdf

Could do with a list for the building industry like the MoD have. Although of limited use when the same acronym is used for 10 or more different things ... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/227048/acronyms_and_abbreviations_dec08.pdf

Are you intending to use the loft space as a room or just insulating it to keep the tank from freezing? If the latter, you need to rethink … If you need to insulate between the rafters, you need a minimum of 25mm air space so 75mm PIR might work depending how much the felt sags. No battens needed, just fit the PIR flush with the bottom of the rafter, then you know there is an air gap above. Make sure you fit the PIR snuggly using expanding tape or foam. Assuming the felt is lapped, there should be adequate ventilation, no need for all those vents (IMHO!!)