dpmiller

I use EE and the local tower is an 1800 one here: https://www.4g.co.uk/4g-frequencies-uk-need-know/

this is the one I sprung for https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001051426244.html "outdoor" antenna is in the attic, I'll probably get it outside when we've scaff up next. I've two indoor antennas on a T-piece, one at each end of the upstairs balcony. Without the booster, there is basically NO signal in the house. With it on, there's two bars upstairs and 1-bar downstairs, only a few dropped calls. there are variants for different frequencies, you'd need to check which bands your operator uses.

cupful of ash-free 2-stroke oil if you must, or a gallon of diesel. But tight pumps tend to gall and seize in a non recoverable manner... No, I'd be happy it was the cap tbh although the filter is worth a change. / you can see efficiency improvements by installing a Tigerloop, havng a constant head of pre-warmed de-aerated oil *does* work.

Really dislike the ads running on the radio over here at the moment- "do business with the rest of the UK? find out what you have to do NOW" b'stards.

legal or illegal? there are plenty of chinesium boosters and they work well. IIRC @Jeremy Harris discussed them a couple of years back. I've one for EE's frequencies and it's works bleedin well.

Ask Zoot?

/presuming the immersion stat's correctly set and actually working...

are the caps the same on both ends of the rad? The whole point of a lockshield is to protect it from fiddling, leaving only one valve for the customer to open/close/adjust. The valves come with both typed of caps, fixed and adjustable, and your plumber should've put a different one at each end. That he didn't, makes it seem like the system has never been balanced...

If the workshop is so much warmer than the rest of the house, have you turned this radiator down a bit?

Wrong country... https://www.calor.co.uk/

what would they say about a wall of glass bricks I wonder Dave?

Steady progress. Plasterboarding just about finished. Remainder moved upstairs for storage Ground floor cleared Insulation down (100PIR over 50 graphite EPS) Heating plumbing roughly in place Now working my way through the UFH pipework. About halfway there now... Willis on the left (and the piping from the ASHP will come through the wall in roughly that location). Diverter valve next (sorry @ProDave) defaulting all flow up to the TS's coil, mixing flows in the mid position and bypassing the TS when fully over. One 2-way valve sending up to the towel rail manifold, and the last sending round to the UFH manifold. Bypass valve to ensure necessary flow in all states. Interesting observation is that with the towel rail motorvalve open the is sufficient flow- convective or otherwise- to warm the FF ensuite towel rail even with the manifold pump off. And yes, I've pipe insulation to fit yet...

pipe stat plus solenoid valve. Or an STS quench valve. Both would work, but neither would comply AFAIK

that's not the point.

I'd have to say, NZ is probably pretty similar to the rest of the UK if you take greater london out of it.

So I'm thinking there's weather compensation, frost protection, and defrost; all of which might well affected by the damp-valley-close-to-a-river scenario?

Brickies used the digger with the forks on. I did the roof myself, and paid some eastern european guys that were doing the TF insulation to handball the tiles. Less than a day's hire of a handler...

We've never had a telescopic on site...

I bought a very cheap chinese clone of a Makita trim router, with an added plunge base, as a first foray into edge-contouring. And it's a bleedin useful wee beastie, even if I only use it for rounding over the odd thing or trenching a door head or the like. Paid for itself very quickly...

I acquired a Takeuchi TB125- so just under 3t and about the biggest that can be towed easily. It'll lift and move a maxi-bag (just) and with forks on was very handy for getting reasonable numbers of blocks etc up a lift of scaffold. Plus big enough to dig without being too big to access tight spots, and heavy enough to work a breaker well.

is that an RDB? Diagnostics here, gives timing indications etc RDB 535 Fault Finding Chart.pdf

a really "cold" start can take more juice *or* one pole of the motor is a tiny bit soft and has problems kicking the pump over (can't remember if it's a gear pump or a trochoid in the riello) But a low cap will make the motor hum and maybe turn slowly before tripping or timing out. so have you wiped the photocell yet?

he might be licensed but is he transmitting at leagal power levels? What distance from antenna to fan?

and wall mounted speed controllers are easy to come by. https://www.nfan.co.uk/store/p/me16 although if the fan isn't ridiculously big a bog-standard dimmer switch will likely do it...

Yep, the photocell just pulls out. The whole control box pulls out too, with two contacts on the end to go to the electrodes (devil's work these Riellos in my book- no separate ignitor box, plus they use a tapping in the motor to derive the low-voltage supply to the control box. Makes them a mare to diagnose...)