dpmiller

So I'm thinking there's weather compensation, frost protection, and defrost; all of which might well affected by the damp-valley-close-to-a-river scenario?

Brickies used the digger with the forks on. I did the roof myself, and paid some eastern european guys that were doing the TF insulation to handball the tiles. Less than a day's hire of a handler...

We've never had a telescopic on site...

I bought a very cheap chinese clone of a Makita trim router, with an added plunge base, as a first foray into edge-contouring. And it's a bleedin useful wee beastie, even if I only use it for rounding over the odd thing or trenching a door head or the like. Paid for itself very quickly...

I acquired a Takeuchi TB125- so just under 3t and about the biggest that can be towed easily. It'll lift and move a maxi-bag (just) and with forks on was very handy for getting reasonable numbers of blocks etc up a lift of scaffold. Plus big enough to dig without being too big to access tight spots, and heavy enough to work a breaker well.

is that an RDB? Diagnostics here, gives timing indications etc RDB 535 Fault Finding Chart.pdf

a really "cold" start can take more juice *or* one pole of the motor is a tiny bit soft and has problems kicking the pump over (can't remember if it's a gear pump or a trochoid in the riello) But a low cap will make the motor hum and maybe turn slowly before tripping or timing out. so have you wiped the photocell yet?

he might be licensed but is he transmitting at leagal power levels? What distance from antenna to fan?

and wall mounted speed controllers are easy to come by. https://www.nfan.co.uk/store/p/me16 although if the fan isn't ridiculously big a bog-standard dimmer switch will likely do it...

Yep, the photocell just pulls out. The whole control box pulls out too, with two contacts on the end to go to the electrodes (devil's work these Riellos in my book- no separate ignitor box, plus they use a tapping in the motor to derive the low-voltage supply to the control box. Makes them a mare to diagnose...)

cap sounds favourite..

Is there a nut on the stud, between the cistern and the pan?

sadly screws are smaller than pistons for a given HP (at our levels anyway) . Best option I've seen (but not yet tried) is this: https://www.fps-compressors.co.uk/phazair-230_5_510-270-vsd_variable_speed_receiver_mounted.html on-board phase converter/ variable speed drive.

Is that what they said "up the heat upped"?

Dewalt 18v here too, very handy.

it's not cold, the blue handle is the wrong colour...

BC charges are based on build value once you get over a certain size, over here. I had to throw together a breakdown that matched our proposed cost to "prove" that I wasn't doing them out of profit...

/not sure if joking, or really don't understand flow...

No, because bigger is pointless and redundant unless required. I've nearly a kilometre of 32mm MDPE between the Toby and the house.This steps to 22mm as a rising main but only the showers and ouside tap are 15mm, everything else has plenty of *flow* using 10mm.

From the *full* manual (there are a couple of versions I found) "Note: Sentinel Kinetic Plus units have spigots suitable for either diameter 150mm ducting (UK model) or for diameter 180mm ducting (rest of EU model). The diameter 180mm spigots come complete with self adhesive foam adaptors to enable it to be used with either diameter 180mm ducting or diameter 200mm ducting. These foam adaptors are to be fixed to the outside of the spigot for diameter 200mm ducting. High Flow units are supplied with 180mm spigots, an accessory pack of four self adhesive foam adaptors part no. 409761 is available for use with 200mm ducting.

please explain how pipe size affects pressure? Unless of course you mean dynamic pressure, the reduced pressure caused by a restriction to flow?

Capacitors slowly lose value with time and if the starting cap is low the motor will ramp up to speed more slowly whilst taking an excess of current, whereas the correct value will jolt the motor up to full speed (often using even more current !) so quickly that the overload trip doesn't have time to respond eg whilst a 3Hp piston compressor will run off a 13A plug (running current between 11 and 14A generally) the starting current is somewhere around 40A for a second or two in my experience. If the capacitor has lost a bit of capacity- 20% say- it could be drawing 30A for five or more seconds... Do you have a multimeter that has a capacitance range or an AC clamp meter? If not, just spend a tenner on a new capacitor...

Is the oil fresh, and might you try replacing the start/ run capacitors?

B&Q stock 89mm CLS but pricing's unlikely to be competitive I'd guess. None of the local usual suspects carry CLS...

Not a simple oil boiler then as there's no link between burner and system other than the 'stat. Now a Combi is a different bucket of kippers...