StevieD

One thing you may want to consider is rainwater run off and SW drainage. We have been in our cabin for a year and during wet periods areas that don't have a great run off can really lead to saturated ground in patches - especially in areas where there is regular pedestrian/vehicle route. if you can direct the rainwater away into a watercourse or natural drainage point, great. Keeping a well drained area will help with settlement. i would also strongly consider adding an extra layer of insulation to the underside of the caravan and adding skirting around it. Caravans can get very drafty. Dehumidifier is a must too, we have them every other day in each room. Depending on how your cabin is situated, you may want to consider having a wind breaker for the S - SW winds. i.e. Site storage container or wind breaker on the Heras fencing (reinforce the fencing with supports/sandbags/etc.) - they have a habit of falling over in moderate winds at the best of times.

it is true but i think its one area in a build you want to get right and not mess about and have different trades getting involved or try and save corners. Brother had a fallout with a plumber who didnt pressure test the UFH before screeding/tiling, once it was switched on and the inevitable leek was realized (upstairs), quite a bit of damage and tearing up to find and fix that joint. Dalys had a good examples of systems they have installed, ASHP/GSHP/PV panel/etc. and covering different types of houses (bungalow, 250m2 up to a mansion) and compared it to alternative method (oil burner, rads, etc.), obviously everything is taken with a pinch of salt but i was impressed and do want to use them when i get going. There are some things i don't think are worth it for a new build (beam vacuum system, conservatory, sash windows, those big bespoke windows above the front door) and save it for things that are important - decent heating system that is low maintenance and economical (long run).

have you considered Daly renewables? i have spoken to them and they seem to be the business. I have heard good reports of them locally, may be a premium price but by all accounts provide an excellent service and have good aftercare too. He was straight laced when i spoke to him, he will tell you what you need from an engineering perspective as opposed to a sales pitch.

BC Cost - yes their inspection rate was based on valuation of the build - they went to the higher end cost, we tried to argue the costs down (i.e. you can have a £2500 bathroom suite vs £15k and the like) but they were adamant. The overall difference in cost was approx £600 so we gave in for a (hopefully) easier life, fearing we could be earmarked for harsher inspections by BC down the line. One contractor i spoke to who is quoting was very direct over key payments i.e. block work completion, roof completion, full envelope, etc. and establishing works i can complete that he would be happy for me to self do (drainage, landscaping, foundations (i know some are particular on some tasks) and elements i will have supplier in. In the current climate we are in, builders and suppliers are keen for the work but i don't want to be seen as taking the proverbial Mick - they want to work and i want value for money but i want to make sure nobody gets messed around. I know what i want and want to make sure its detailed that any variation/change is agreed first (before anyone uses their initiative), payment at agreed stages and after inspection of works, retention built in for snagging at different stages. I think its part fear of trying to get it right first time and not get caught out on some oversight that will chip away on our emergency fund for the works. thankfully we are based right across the road from the build and from a farming background so we are well trained in getting value for money!

Hi Thankfully we have attained full planning permission and passed the noses of building control without too much fuss (bar their interpretation of build cost). We are starting to engage with a couple of contractors for quotes to attain the appropriate level of mortgage funds - our adviser has okayed twice the rough cost but we only want what is needed (bells and whistles can be added later). Once we have selected our contractor, is there a standard pro forma contract to agree with a contractor available or can someone signpost me to one? We have already engaged with certain suppliers (windows, UFH & ASHP supplier) to provide when the main contractor ready at different stages and would need to detail these caveats into the contract (client supplied items/scope of works) and other works i can self perform. Same for works information, i know what i want to detail but if there's a pro forma template to use it would be a great help. Also, how risky is it to start a self build w/ self build mortgage in the current climate? so much uncertainty and unpredictable climate looking ahead for the next couple of years. I suppose there is never an ideal time to start but if we have the means to start now and the rates wont change much, might as well crack on. Based in NI.

I've heard stories that they can higher if you have a lot of en-suites/bathrooms and other factors of your dwelling In my area, it seems that they base the assessment on a formula where it is the value of property x 'domestic rate poundage' and have a conversation on anything that can be mitigated. If I knew what could help at planning stage to mitigate, i can design/plan around it. Apparently a relative had his reduced due to a pig farm being started in his area. Where is the guidance for the layman?

Hi When planning a new build - is there a method or guideline to pre-emptively calculate/predict the rates for the property once it is built? Is there a bracket between m2 of the dwelling, a difference between 1 + half than a 2 storey, size of garage, etc.? I intend to install a sizeable portable shed at some stage but I don't think this should affect it. If I knew there was say a 10-15% difference in rates between having a 200m2+ dwelling than keeping it under, I would design it accordingly. We are based in a fairly rural area and will need to connect to electric grid just.

Many thanks, il check the links out. We are not required for PP but I have family on the other side of the road, almost parallel and I would like to ensure we wont be casting long evening shadows for them also. We have a nearby farm, the workshop is perfectly positioned for the sunlight all day but is protected from the prevailing winds, id like to replicate that for my garage/workshop.

Hi, See photos below. For the porch, I reused a vat tank base as our porch base (a timber frame base would work just as well), then bolted on 3''x3'' timbers for uprights and various timber for the rest. Only thing I had to buy was the clear corrugated sheets for the roof. Later I added handrails, rubber matting (anti slip)and some green hedge mesh for a wind/rain breaker. I couldn't do without it, I just wish I had made it bigger. I could but id rather invest my time now on the build! You can see the rubber skirting too, I added a timber frame underneath and fixed the rubber skirting to it. (It was reclaimed unused conveyor belt stock). For the bunkbeds, we sourced ours from Wayfair online as they suited the dimensions we needed - as it was bespoke we needed two new mattresses too. They are suitable for children under ten but definitely not teenagers! They are light wooden frame so it doesn't but too much loading on the floor. We have a buy back option from our cabin supplier at roughly 20% under of what we paid for it (depending on condition of course), given we will be residing in it between 18-24months, the cost saved from renting is invaluable. I cant stress siting your cabin in a sheltered area enough (unless you like getting rocked to sleep in the storms). Also, look at water run off paths and shoring - this will help prevent your cabin/paths/driveway from flooding, rutting and keep it fairly dry and firm during wet periods. Hope this helps.

If you have ever heard of the app - what three words. Essentially it is company that has mapped the whole world in a 3m x 3m grid and uses three words for that exact location to use it in. Some countries are considering it in placement of postcodes or addresses as it can be used universally around the world. Interestingly they needed approx. 40,000 words for the whole world (unkown if they took out all the rude words...) if you use it for your house/plot location it may draw up some inspiration...

We are rural and we have a recent neighbours build their free standing garage with its back to the road so its not a precedent. If I did that, it would place it in the north east corner of the plot, I just wonder if the dwelling will put it in shade in the afternoon/evening, when I would be generally be using the using the building.

Hi All Looking for some direction. I have a fairly long (north to south 50m) and narrow (east to west tapers 36-26m) plot. I am keeping the house closer to the south side to maximise exposure to daylight, however this presents a headache over placing my garage and outbuilding (storage shed because....shed) to the north side. Is there guidance or a programme/info on how far away buildings can be from eachother without one being in a constant shadow of the other? i.e. if I were to have solar panels on garage roof, if there guidance on were to best situate the garage in relation to the house first?

Hi, I have been living in a static caravan adjacent to our plot for the past few months. I have a wife and two girls and we have been managing fine for the past few months. There are a few tips I would share. Cite your caravan in a sheltered area from the wind and rain, fortunately we have a large outbuilding to our south side, an embankment to the east and trees to the north and west. We have heard but not felt the past two storms. Additional insulation where possible, I added 2 inch foiled insulation board to the underside of the static home (keep vent paths clear) and added a thick skirting to the caravan. This stops the winter draft sapping the heat from the under side of the caravan. We also put rubber matting over the tin roof above the sleeping quarters. Rain and hail amplify off the tin roof! My wife is a light sleeper and found this beneficial. Space is obviously a premium. Take in things you essentially need. We downsized significantly, including clothes. Use as you need, try and keep it down to 1-3 pairs of everything each (cept skivvies, need several). If you can, add a sizable sheltered porch area, we have a 2m2 one but could have don'e with a bigger one. We have a retractable washing line, cat box and seats out in it. Very handy. Static homes can have a few draughty spots, esp with built in furniture. Find and insulate as you see them. Because they are draughty, you may get moisture build up inside. A 2kw plug in de-humidifier will be essential. it will keep furniture, clothes, carpet dry. Keeps the RH of your caravan down, which if you are staying for a long period is essential - I wood burner will help do this too. Thankfully we can wash and dry clothes nearby which saves a lot of set up. If you can, you could use an ex-site office iso container - it will have connections for light, heat, water and foul waste. a used 20ft one can cost 2-3k. We have two children in one small room - it used to have those skinny single beds and room for not much else. We took those out and put in small bunk beds, slots in nicely and left more room for ikea storage furniture for toys/clothes. If I remember any more il post them. Good luck, it definitely is an experience - always remember its only temporary and its for a greater goal. Don't let cabin fever set in!

Thanks for the information, my brother has under floor heating and the big issue he had was the guy installing it forgot to pressure test it, so after it was installed (and tiled over...) ran the heating and voila, upstairs leak, took up 10ft of flooring before it was located. I'm all for over insulating the house, just need to get my head around developing the spec. We will have quite a few windows so the insulating and sealing around them will be important. Is domestic cavity still tend to be 2 inch board and 4 inch blockwork or upgrade to thermal blockwork? Pre -cast first floor slabs? For DHW I'm mirroring the downstairs b'room with upstairs and master en-site will be above utility room. She wants a zip hot water for the kitchen so should only be a cold feed for there. Trying to keep the amount of runs and chasing to a minimum. I haven't had any costings yet, but what would a ASHP with UFH for 250m2 roughly cost? BTW - if you haven't met my wife, she would want the stove on, even if she was sitting in the Australian outback during summer.... We are based in mid-ulster between the sausages and the chickens... I will definitely look out for Daly and Green Energy thanks. As I said, you would need a spreadsheet of the different systems, combinations of primary and secondary, cost of running vs install, etc.

Thanks I will do, I find the problem with a self build is there is too much choice and decisions to consider for your home! What's your take on the best method for home heating and hot water supply? One of the great things is its a chance to have a good efficient and economical system. I have stayed in some houses where ive had the oil auger going flat out with two open fires in the winter time as the system was very inefficient and had poor insulation. Id like to get it right first time.