dpmiller

It sounds like it may have cleared itself?

airlock?

Looks like a good photo for detail actually. And I'd tend to agree with @JSHarris there are loads of mains flexes but few mains installation cables, only single insulation over much and bare PCBs also.

There was a item on the local news recently about a local steel-framed modular scheme- https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-45332800

^ wot Dave says. Plus the larger "towable" stuff is only this if you have access to a Disco, L200 or similar AND a fancy plant trailer...

Lose 150mm of the GF ceiling height?

2.8t Takeuchi here with all the bits inc. a breaker and pallet forks. Very useful machine and even tho it's got a bit of play in the kingpost the groundworks guy quite likes it, it's easy on fuel and digs well. The forks are pretty handy but a telehandler it aint.

As I do all the window cleaning in our house, I went for the sliding/egress hinges all round in our build.

^same over here.

is there any requirement for fire protection?

steady progress with not too many dramas, and hopefully habitable by September.

OK. Rooflights are in. Keylites really are a doddle compared to Velux, the frames just drop into place with the bracket heights preset. But the 1340x980 units are HEAVY. Even though we'd scaff up in the hallway, it just wan't tall enough so a hastily-built stock of blocks with a pallet atop (and a ratchet strap holding it all to the scaff to be sure) gave us a platform to get the unit out to the roof on. Thankfully the pivots drop into place easily once the unit is set roughly into position. But talk about an anxious couple of minutes... Solar remote system works well, I've currently one channel for each window but they *could* both be on the same.

It's a shitty phone pic at dusk, but this is the *why*.. Birds singing, sun setting off to the left, water trickling, traffic noise a half-mile away. Bliss. Oh, but the Robin that flitting in-and-out through a gap in the felt? mate, you need somewhere else to shit.

So where are we now. Blockwork keeps on going, we've got all the *big* lintels in place now so the guys can just keep on plugging on , each course is shorter than the last now. Chimney stuff is here, sills are here (and look gorgeous, really fine finish on the concrete) and we're lifting the big Keylite windows into place tomorrow. SHMBO needs to be making final decisions on the position of sanitaryware and then it'll be first fix city. Window guys return 9th, roof stuff arrives that week too. Moving on...

only 35mm insulation?

two ufh manifolds and blending valves for me- £70 off. sweet.

I'm wondering whether you can furtle with the flow switch on the pump- move the reedswitch down a bit/ sleeve the chamber for a closer fit to the float/ put a light spring under the float.

how restrictive is the showerhead?

tried blowing through it?

enquiring minds, and all that.

Rendered over with EML sounds like a plan... The portions I'm looking at are part of the main TF so 140mm with all the insulation package inside, so it really is just choosing a means of standing the render clear of the frame a distance to match the blockwork. They aren't even massive areas, perhaps 1.5m2 each panel. I do have one "normal" dormer to deal with at the back but that'll be easier to detail as there's nothing it needs to align with.

@Mr Punter I'm intrigued- why the Celotex? Seems like an expensive way just to make up depth and as all the specc'ed insulation is on the inside of the frame would this not require reconsideration of condensation risk? I presume that any airgaps in this built panel don't have to align with the TF-block cavity? On the render side of things, as we're undecided as to whether it'll be a simple sand and cement affair or a monocouche would it be safest to site the renderboard back behind the block a bit with EML on?

any thoughts here please?

try this chap: http://www.psdesign-architecture.com/services.html

You might laugh @lizzie but hot glue is used routinely by the guys that do paintless dent repairs on cars- search for "glue pull". The glue is easily removed afterwards with a spray of alcohol before rolling it off in one piece. No harm is done to the finish.