Jump to content

markc

Members
  • Posts

    3800
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    22

Everything posted by markc

  1. Put the timber back in place and then set the rods, or push a small twig into the hole under the bolt to keep it level
  2. Yes! 2K is fantastic to use but the vapour is heavy and very harmful. completely different to ‘normal’ aerosol cans where you apply lots of thin coats, 2K you lay down thick and fast
  3. If you are rebuilding later then no
  4. Looking at the layout I would say it lends itself to losing the wall. The L shaped kitchen/diner/lounge would be a great social/family space
  5. Some people have nothing better to do than find things to complain about, ignore it. a few years ago I lived in a street backing onto some waste land (old council garage site) local dumping ground, broken glass everywhere, locals dumped all garden waste etc. one day I needed to move a JCB so decided to clean up the area while I had the machine…. 2 days later a letter from environmental services telling me to remove the rubbish I had dumped.
  6. Have you ever used it? does anyone ever use them? is it a home or a cafe? look terrible takes up wall space needs painting noise transmission a great idea …. Said no one ..ever!
  7. 20mm ply? Guessing you mean 18mm. Most floors are 18mm or 22mm chipboard with is cheaper and comes with tongue and groove joints on all edges. ply would be fine but why use it?
  8. No need to cap the bottom, the concrete will no rise very much. postcrete is great, I usually throw 1 bag in to get a hold of a post them when it’s firm use more to fill and poke/mix to behave more like wet pour
  9. Hi, cap the top, no need to paint inside or fill. Do not wrap with plastic, let the concrete get hold of the steel. When concrete is set, mastic or silicon where post enters concrete and also slope top of concrete away to shed water. im guessing these are for a hammock or similar so not structural
  10. Generally right but I would take the board over the flanges to improve adhesion and reduce possibility of leaching or a potential crack line
  11. Send a message, text email (written) saying you need the scaffold adapted or removed or it will be disposed of in 1 week. if no response then take it down and get someone else in.
  12. Gravity is a bitch!
  13. A Larson truss is basically two pieces of timber, spaced apart with rectangles of ply nailed on to form a sort of ladder. simple, strong, light and very easy to make
  14. Hanging a valve in tight fit tile holes is just asking for broken tiles and having to do it again.
  15. I’m with Octopus and always stay in credit and never fix, probably why I get a big discount on standing charges and a good rate. asked to add another account for another place I bought and they put me straight onto same rate so I’m a advocate of staying in credit especially when having the cash in my account would make pennies at best
  16. On top of Pir to reduced gaps and easier to seal etc
  17. I would put the wall membrane under the floor membrane so any moisture/condensation forming on underside of wall DPM would be directed under the floor membrane not on top of it
  18. If it’s an old house, possibly part of ceiling pulled down and replaced (water ingress etc.) and you are seeing the joint between the old and new
  19. Spotted a YouTube .. “I made an oak door out of scaffold boards” … since when have scaff boards been oak.
  20. As above
  21. Looks like cold set tarmac
  22. Good morning and welcome, looks fantastic
  23. Ahh, if you have noggins up to the plasterboard then it’s much harder, thought it might just be battened leaving you a pretty clear run vertically
  24. If there is a space you can try rodding (6mm pvc air line works well) or a thin string with a nut or similar and pull it behind the plasterboard with a strong magnet.
×
×
  • Create New...