markc

30mm with pipes straight on top of PIR … I reckon you are in for an uneven floor with lots of cracks. Or am I missing something here?

You remove the screws to prevent them staining or ‘popping’ the plaster

Totally agree, I used to live within 100m or one mast and about 50m to another … phone signal was terrible unless I was in the attic

You will never get full contact between the plate and subfloor, and the plates are there to distribute the heat overs wider area. Bends are easily flattened out and you never see them after fitting so creases and bends are not a problem

Didn’t realise, when I read the bit about sealing I thought It would be better spaced off

Postcrete is fine, if the concrete will be visible then I would mix well rather than just chucking the water in and letting it set.

Big bead of sealer across the top and down the ledger ends, don’t seal the bottom.

I’m confused as to why the chippie is thinking about flex between 18mm ply and 22mm chip? using thinner cement board would cause problems with flex.

So many possibilities here. Z or E purlins need to be secured on the vertical faces (portal frames have flat or pressed steel uprights to bolt the purlins to. what are you going to use the building for? A steel roof may be cheap but it’s going to be cold, draughty and lots of condensation unless well constructed and insulated. yes steel is expensive but a UB ridge beam with timber rafters is a clean and cost effective answer again depending on what you want. you don’t say which way around the pitch or double pitch will be. if you can be more specific then I’m sure we can give better suggestions

You may find there is only 50mm or maybe 100mm if MVHR, or deeper down lighters are fitted.

yes, you cut one end, mark long point for length, cut at 45 degrees (no packer), then put packer in and cut correct angle keeping same point to point length. hmmm, italics 😮

If it’s 55 degrees, cut an angled packet to rotate the piece off the back fence then 45degrees is more than enough (assuming tapered pack is at least 10 degree).

@zoothorn put the three pieces together, rest ends into hangers on Ledger, get 1 or two timbers ready and a few nails. lift outer ledger up to roughly right height (preferably a bit low), temporarily nail a leg to hold it up. stick a nail in hangers near wall, pack outer up to correct position with temp legs.

Thicknesser is pretty safe (bade is hidden under the roller feed), planer table on top is a different matter.

As above or keep new base at the higher level put not fill on neighbours side so nothing can move

Insulate to increase efficiency of the system,.

I would pull the whole thing out and start again if you are looking a decent building. For a free standing timber shed then it would be fine but last thing you want is foundation failure, cracked walls etc.

Flat bar is pretty useless as a lintel, all it will do is stop bricks slipping. A galvanised angle lintel would work well. if laying bricks from inside how would they point up etc? sort the access and do it right from outside

Pir or insulated plasterboard could both be glued but if surface finish isn’t that important then I would go for extra insulation thickness. When hot the heat will still come through but will take longer.

Oops, someone fitting an extractor and didn’t think to keep it away from a door or window

Good morning and welcome

Hangers will be fine even just face nailed, the hanger would tear before a hanger nail would shear.

Russell bet me to a similar answer, first thought was something like a car port but the last bit suggests a part of the house. We can offer advice and ideas but it sounds like you need some proper professional input

As above, and to add, if I’m picturing the detail correctly then then his proposal would be more than adequate to take the loads but as it’s unconventional the BCO will likely want a SE sign off

External pocket doors are pretty straightforward and quite common in warmer climates. Biggest problem would be achieving an acceptable (draught proof) seal around the pocket and how thick your wall would have to be to achieve a decent insulation performance.