markc

Traffic management come under chapter 8 - basically signage and safe routing of pedestrians etc. depending on the crane, (size, side reach and load being lifted) you may not need anything more than a person directing / escorting pedestrians around the crane and assisting traffic management especially if it’s a fairly quiet road.

Hi and welcome

Have a look for drop bolt, loads of variations

Odd for a GRP tank to have a concrete lid but you could take off the lid (assuming you want to reuse it) lay a concrete slab and build off that then put the existing lid back on. If the concrete lid is a disk with an inspection hatch, remove the hatch and put a new plastic chamber on top of the existing disk.

If it’s bare metal then I would use an etch primer followed by a zinc rich undercoat. Galvafroid is very good but can be expensive.

Another Ego convert here, I was sceptical but the big mower and strummer have surprised me, should have spent a bit more and got the brush cutter.

If you need to move the material any distance then you really need a dumper with the machine or a “JCB” (backhoe) to break it up then use the bucket to move it. difference between 3 and 5 tonner would be negligible, while you are paying the extra transport an 8t machine would be the better option. Unless the slab is thick or reinforced then you probably don’t need a pecker, especially with a JCB type machine as it will pull up the slab in chunks

@Originaltwist great post, you just saved me a lot of typing regarding the importance of angle for the “feel” of a stairway while using. 😃

+1 to @TommoUK comment. A similar detail is sometimes used but with a factory made truss, block infil and hedgehog (spikes plate) connection holding it all together at the apex. if the rafters are loose, no birds mouth and only nailed, there is only the wall plate holding the rafter from slipping down the roofline

Hi, I have seen plenty of ridge beams jointed this way with multiple joints presumably to reduce weight and facilitate fitting without a crane etc. as for floor beams then I would be more suspicious, the joint looks well done but beam deflection/joint flex will be more than a single piece or splice done with flange plates. Can you post a pic of the beam in place?

As above, it’s not 100A total load, 100A each phase, I think it’s still 80A fuse, just not clearly written. fast car chargers need 3 phase supplies but wont be at full load all the time so shouldn’t be a problem

Good morning and welcome, loads of info to be found in past threads and topics.

I didn’t see the post until now, the 4 corner screws are for jacking the base to plumb and account for uneven surface. You generally use a single bolt in middle of the base plate (for horizontal or overhead drilling) or stand on it for slab work. many bases have a rubber ‘skirt’ to seal using a vacuum pump but bolting or standing on it are the usual methods

A lot of timber laminating is done with Phenol resorcinol formaldehyde (hopefully the spelling/memory isn’t too far away). Been quite a few years since I’ve been involved with glulam structures

Can’t see any reason to involve BC assuming straightforward replacement. If you were enlarging openings or changing fire doors then yes.

If you do need a cherry picker, let me know and I can point you in the right direction and make sure you aren’t getting over charged

Hi and welcome, Hope Valley is a gorgeous setting

Hello and welcome.

I wouldn’t bother with the textile, hardcore (bricks, rubble concrete etc.) well compacted and then cap off with MOT.

Good practice to noggin any end joints that do not drop on a joist, any middle ones are supported on both sides so don’t need anything

Couple of recent break ins near us on industrial units .. battery nibbler and recipro saw straight through the cladding

Hello and welcome, as above, look at permitted development first.

Are you intending having pedestal basin or wall mounted/floating basin with concealed cistern etc. in a false wall?

Assuming you won’t be running large vehicles over the patio, MOT straight over, compacted and you will be ok. Slabs over the top are likely to cause more damage as they settle.

I would go 30mm thin wall, 1.5mm ish for stiffness. You won’t be having high compressive or tension loads so no need for thicker wall thicknesses.