markc

Well done, I’ve seen much worse done by “professionals”

A lot depends on the balustrade. If the handrail and infil (assuming glass) is designed as load bearing the cantilever is drastically reduced and a block wall would be ok. If the treads are true single cantilever’s then you are into reinforced wall territory. A bespoke stair company will have SE’s they work with regularly.

Good morning and welcome. … and good luck 😃

M4 is a machine thread, not a wood screw. 4mm x 30 is a pretty standard door hinge size into timber

No need for insulation as the hot air will be moving and a flat duct will be plastic. some condensation will form inside the duct but the moving air will carry this away to atmosphere. a cold duct in a warm environment would form condensation on the outside which would be a problem.

Good morning and welcome, sounds like you will be busy for a while. Have fun

2 down pipes is always preferred in case 1 gets blocked, or if at 1 end and very heavy rain the furthest end can fill and overflow but 1:500 is plenty for a gutter.

200 sqm house so maybe 150sqm of roof including a garage? How did you end up at 20 cube of soak away?

When you say pad, I presume this is just an area of hardcore, if so then no need for muck away. And hopefully you can use the hardcore as fill or for driveway etc. later. a crane rep will over spec the crane and what’s needed - they don’t like crane drivers shouting at them if the job is hard. Unless you are doing heavy lifts a smaller crane with fly jib or even an Alu crane will be easier. Shop around a few crane hire places. If you have the heaviest weight to be lifted and radius to centre of crane or a plan with some dims, post it here and I will take a look.

I have just paid £118+vat per Qube from the barrow boys (mix on site truck) … that’s not the company name, just they always have barrows and will barrow into place for you. that price was based on 20 - 25 cube

Do you have a pic? Is the pipe in the screed? If so just needs access to put a cap on the end but hard to say without seeing what you have

The tap will have probably have/need flex pipes so you just need the space to connect these to the pipes in/through wall. Adults generally view everything from above so no need to get the pipes and fittings tight under the sink etc.

You could use cladding panels then sheet over and render, or block the walls and render.

Getting there … and no it’s not going to be a bungalow!

You wouldn’t be the first to use washers (or an earth tag either side - they are thin).

Looks like a lintel bearing on the frame, odd way to do it but overkill if anything.

So you have a house build over a cave.. quirky and an interesting feature but not very practical. you are never going to stop water coming in and trying to “train” it into going where you want is unlikely with sandstone. if you add a non permeable floor then you will get a puddle that drains back through the walls once the water depth is high enough. your options are really leave it as is, or fully tank and drain to a sump and pump.

Hi mate, happy to share the list/quote/invoice. 2 post car lift, lathe, milling machine, welding plant etc. hobby workshop (evenings and weekends) so once batteries are charged I don’t expect any problems. But maybe long dark winter days so generator to add a bit if needed

My man-cave will be off grid 3 phase. Nearest supply is not workable so I’m going with 3x10Kw victron inverters with 30Kw batteries with a small 3 phase generator for top up or emergency use. Energy Monkey have been really good to deal with. i think I can squeeze 34 panels on the roof so should work out ok.

Fix the drawer carcass to underside of the top.

Do you really need to remove it? Apart from being a cold bridge, if it’s in a kitchen area and behind cupboards then it’s not really hurting anything and in my opinion not worth the cost of removal. if the inner wall will be visible then you don’t have much choice and the cost is in excavation and working on a live gas main so several personell, lots of paperwork and a few hours to complete the job.

I reckon this is just an optical illusion as everything appears to be running parallel.

Yes, backfill and compact with end of a post/log/big hamper etc. do it in layers to make compacting easier. If someone is assisting anyway, pull out the other one at the same time, easier to dig on your own than pull posts out

Bacteria boosters definitely improve a “damaged” septic, but looking after it is much better - minimal bleach, even that should be septic friendly. No fats etc. down the drain. That should/will reduce emptying but if it’s filling up with liquid there must be a blockage or restriction, or surface water is pouring in.

the single phase feeding 6 properties when the old barns etc were converted is already struggling, I would need batteries anyway so might as well go the whole hog.