markc

This is one of those what should you do? What would you do questions. Good few wraps of insulting (insulating) tape and you will be ok. As you are using a core for earth then yes tape or sleeve to identify.

Are there any gaps appearing? Or cracks wider at the top or bottom? From photo it is difficult to be specific but my first impression is that mortar has been run down the joint and the crack is just mortar shrinkage.

Scratches easily and then grease and discolouration are a real pain.

Trying to visualise this, a couple of pics would help.

You really need a gap between wall and path. Sounds more like a drainage problem. Is this an old house? Outside ground above inside floor level?

Chem anchors with sleeves are brilliant in bricks or blocks with holes

The Osmo stuff is brilliant, think the one for floors is called Polyx oil

Good afternoon and welcome

The question/sticking points here would be, would a rung of a ladder be classed or accepted as floor and escape windows must be at eye level. Again could this be on a ladder? Probably no to both, but what if there was a small platform or landing? I’m going to say no, you won’t get away with it, even though the likelihood of needing it is relatively low.

Do you mean a fixed ladder on the inside?

@nod would be able to give much for info and detail but yes, the beads are rotten and need replacing, loose paint looks like water behind so the loose stuff needs scraping off to allow drying/see what’s going on.

Watched a couple the other day, they are really informative and clear. I will be picking your brains in the near future as I’m just in the process of buying another place.

Put the adhesive down where it will push up into the holes and slots then it doesn’t need to stick to the metal. There won’t (shouldn’t be) any lift so any forces on the bottom track will be sliding/shearing. The adhesive squeezed up into the track holes/slots will prevent any side to side movement.

You only regret buying 22mm when you are carrying them up a ladder .. or carrying them anywhere come to think of it.

Great, in that case go for the 22mm, floor will be much more rigid and the extra cost is minimal

Is this for storage or usable rooms? Were the trusses designed for the floor loading? Or are they ordinary roof trusses?

Good post, i am looking forward to comments.

Wall mounted tap/mixer and shower head in the centre

I’ve been buying and selling cherry pickers, especially spiders for over 25 years.

@George good point, I never considered a shear load at the corner, this would explain why the joint hasn’t opened / bowed the outer leaf

@crowe thanks for that, must have been an optical illusion, so yes standards bricks and bond. Now for what is pushing the outer leaf away - could be the extension pulling but the crack is too focused and uniform. I did see something similar where the cavity was filled with a wool type insulation and it got wet, this corroded the ties and also added load pushing the outer leaf away. i strongly suggest you get a Structural Engineer or very good (not mortgage adviser) type surveyor to have a look. At the very least wall tie replacement but probably cavity clean out as well.

That’s odd, do you have a pic from the front as well? Trying to work out how it’s bonded, appears the corners are a sort of wrap around brick?

+1 on the above. done far too many small portals as fill in jobs and lost money on every one …. And that was during 90’s when steel erectors walked over portals, climbed columns and monkeyed across purlins.

Pics? If crack is wider at the top then it’s breaking its back … outer end is sinking or middle is heaving. Get some pics up and let’s have a look

Good morning and welcome, finding the plot is the biggest hurdle, I have been looking for a rural/semi rural plot/knock down etc. around south and West Yorkshire for over 5 years now. I have seen a few come up but I wanted more land - at least an acre so quite a bit more difficult.