markc

Agree with the above, going over a) reduces depth so increases risk of freezing and b) gives an additional cold spot from the culvert itself. Bit of extra digging and get it under.

Yes, absolutely fine under a concrete, stone or slate etc. hearth. I wouldn’t ‘cast’ the hearth surface using just sand and cement but definitely ok under a solid hearth. If you don’t have a hearth to fit then cast in concrete and top with tiles or similar.

Damp Sharp sand and cement will work well.

You can set gates to auto close after a time, but even with ones you close with a remote etc. the photo cells are a good idea as it is easy to click close and then someone tries to get in before they close or you click to close and then something prevents you clearing the gate area, most closers sense an obstruction but the edge of a gate will make a mess of a car door before it opens again. gate stop posts are often placed just inside the posts but then they are easily hit as you turn in with a car etc. I much prefer a low centre stop (hinged so you can flip it down if very low ar needs to go out or in).

Photo cells on the outside are a good idea to prevent gates closing before you get out of the way. A gate stop in the centre gives the gates something positive to close against and reduces rattling and wind movement. sensing loops are not needed at home, they are to auto open gates when you approach from the inside. Crush sensors are used in public areas but I’ve never had them on my gates. a beacon is an easy fit even afterwards and I always use because it gives a positive signal gate is or should be moving … easier to see as you leave and especially at night.

Strong boys are good for 300kgs ish each, and spacing is usually much less than 1m. From past experience about 500mm apart with a brick story above, but SEcwill have used a load to calc the beam so that’s the load you should use to determine number of supports

I would say £695 is a bargain and not worth messing about.

What damp line? Was this question supposed to follow on from another thread?

They look bespoke/homemade. I reckon closest readily available would be a gate eye.

Looks like asbestos cement so fairly low risk. Only needs taking off and wrapping in polythene or large bags (double wrapped) and taken to local waste site or into a covered skip - your local skip provider should be able to deal with it.

Hello and welcome, hopefully they are not ordinary celcon blocks and actually high strength ones or concrete or similar. you definitely need to support the brickwork with strong boys or a cascade failure is likely. Leave the supports in until the beam is in, grouted and the gap under the bricks packed solid. you can use one pad across both leaves but that’s a big cold bridge, I’m assuming you are having an inner and outer beam? Or just one?

Steampunk garden implement … I like it

Hessian bags will soon rot and the soil will ‘flow’ down the slope until it settles at its angle of repose - this will be greater / steeper depending on the type and amount of vegetation present when the hessian rots.

As above, Type1 holds water, if it’s under a drive or garden area, road plannings compact very well and drain well too.

Frame should/will collect any water getting past the seal and then drain to outside. If you open the door you should see drain holes, pour water and it should run outside. If the drains cannot clear fast enough there is a serious seal problem. Take a pick from outside and also bottom of frame with door open

If it’s not listed or in a conservation area then it’s your decision what colour you want your windows, door, curtains etc. 10 doors away isn’t a neighbour either.

Just about anything is doable but, as you have trussed rafters there is a lot of work and steelwork to add in order to open up the space. Look at Telebeam and similar systems. Also some good vids on YouTube. one in progress:

Yes no problem re using as long as the panels have not delaminated … ply broken away from the insulation.

Good morning and welcome, if there are other plots available I am sure they will be of interest to others or potential BH members. And as above, it’s always interesting to see what problems and solutions self builders have gone through

Hi Dee, no need to turn basin taps on, but it is a good way to lower the water level in the pipework to shower. Fitting isolator valves is easy with plastic because it’s all just cut and push fit.

If the shower is above the tank then closing the cold stop cock will stop water leaving the tank on the hot side, if you have a shower pump, turn the power off to that. Before cutting any pipes, turn the shower on to dump any pipe pressure.

It relates to the principal elevation - generally the front of the building that gets the postcode and therefore has a road running parallel (ish)

Hello and welcome, finding a plot can be hard work and demoralising but they are out there.

You don’t want to seal over fresh plaster because it needs to dry out. Once dry, if you are painting it then the mist coat acts like a primer to get hold of the plaster surface, not to seal it.

Why? What sort of loads are we talking? About 40 yrs ago I put one of the first sips floor houses up in Ideal Home Exibition, during the panel testing a 3mx3m panel had around 4tons in the centre and this was only supported around the edges. Point loads can be minimised with a little thought