markc

Obviously no slope/fall to drain the surface, a level area will always puddle to some extent. Your only real option here (apart from taking up and starting again with a fall) is to drill one or more drainage holes in the area of the puddle.

@PCurtis for a quick fix you could use a tanking/liquid membrane - Aquaseal or similar, goes on like thick paint and cures to a flexible rubber like layer. You can apply to damp surfaces (cellar walls etc. but much better if it’s dry - heat gun or hair dryer work well).

If that’s the boards we can see then it’s not grp, even laid over wet boards grp would be a hard rigid layer that is pretty bomb proof - think of a fibreglass boat or kit car. I reckon you have some sort of fabric with a paint or resinous coating. As above, it really needs sorting or it is likely to peel off.

Hi and welcome, looks like an interesting project

Good morning and welcome, I like the “I know what I don’t know” lots of knowledge and experience on here so ask away - can be easier to search past threads and topics first.

Birds should not be able to damage grp, can you post a pic?

Traffic management come under chapter 8 - basically signage and safe routing of pedestrians etc. depending on the crane, (size, side reach and load being lifted) you may not need anything more than a person directing / escorting pedestrians around the crane and assisting traffic management especially if it’s a fairly quiet road.

Hi and welcome

Have a look for drop bolt, loads of variations

Odd for a GRP tank to have a concrete lid but you could take off the lid (assuming you want to reuse it) lay a concrete slab and build off that then put the existing lid back on. If the concrete lid is a disk with an inspection hatch, remove the hatch and put a new plastic chamber on top of the existing disk.

If it’s bare metal then I would use an etch primer followed by a zinc rich undercoat. Galvafroid is very good but can be expensive.

Another Ego convert here, I was sceptical but the big mower and strummer have surprised me, should have spent a bit more and got the brush cutter.

If you need to move the material any distance then you really need a dumper with the machine or a “JCB” (backhoe) to break it up then use the bucket to move it. difference between 3 and 5 tonner would be negligible, while you are paying the extra transport an 8t machine would be the better option. Unless the slab is thick or reinforced then you probably don’t need a pecker, especially with a JCB type machine as it will pull up the slab in chunks

@Originaltwist great post, you just saved me a lot of typing regarding the importance of angle for the “feel” of a stairway while using. 😃

+1 to @TommoUK comment. A similar detail is sometimes used but with a factory made truss, block infil and hedgehog (spikes plate) connection holding it all together at the apex. if the rafters are loose, no birds mouth and only nailed, there is only the wall plate holding the rafter from slipping down the roofline

Hi, I have seen plenty of ridge beams jointed this way with multiple joints presumably to reduce weight and facilitate fitting without a crane etc. as for floor beams then I would be more suspicious, the joint looks well done but beam deflection/joint flex will be more than a single piece or splice done with flange plates. Can you post a pic of the beam in place?

As above, it’s not 100A total load, 100A each phase, I think it’s still 80A fuse, just not clearly written. fast car chargers need 3 phase supplies but wont be at full load all the time so shouldn’t be a problem

Good morning and welcome, loads of info to be found in past threads and topics.

I didn’t see the post until now, the 4 corner screws are for jacking the base to plumb and account for uneven surface. You generally use a single bolt in middle of the base plate (for horizontal or overhead drilling) or stand on it for slab work. many bases have a rubber ‘skirt’ to seal using a vacuum pump but bolting or standing on it are the usual methods

A lot of timber laminating is done with Phenol resorcinol formaldehyde (hopefully the spelling/memory isn’t too far away). Been quite a few years since I’ve been involved with glulam structures

Can’t see any reason to involve BC assuming straightforward replacement. If you were enlarging openings or changing fire doors then yes.

If you do need a cherry picker, let me know and I can point you in the right direction and make sure you aren’t getting over charged

Hi and welcome, Hope Valley is a gorgeous setting

Hello and welcome.

I wouldn’t bother with the textile, hardcore (bricks, rubble concrete etc.) well compacted and then cap off with MOT.