markc

Hi and welcome. What are you thinking of pumping around the tube? I will be building a new man cave soon and been looking at GS heating and cooling but that’s using air drawn through a 100m long 100-150mm diameter tube. microbore tube doesn’t have a lot of surface area for heat transfer

If you have a UC or UB against an existing wall you can go drill through the web or flanges (dependant on orientation) and chemical anchor into the existing wall. Far easier to get the steelwork in place and lined/levelled before fixing.

As above, B&B would be more work, more concrete, leave a gap underneath and still need screed/bedding for the pavers or stone etc. P.s. no need for any calcs etc. if you did want to use B@B

Good morning and welcome, loads of info to be found searching in BH threads and if you can’t find what you need - ask away, we all start somewhere and it sounds like you have made a great start.

+1 for ducting that way the cable can be put in or changed to suit your needs.

After paying? Damn auto correct lol

Yorkshire water installed my water meter in the middle of the access, their justification was that it won’t get overgrown and tyres never go down the centre … fair point.

Compact tractor is a great “toy” but no substitute for a digger. As above, forks on a compact tractor are hard work and nothing like a forklift, but easier than carrying stuff around by hand. Hire what you need and keep the toys for after your build.

Never had a self build mortgage but I can’t imagine them simply putting money into your account - I would have thought it would be stage payments after stages were completed as a mortgage is secured on the property. im sure others will be along to confirm or otherwise.

As above, the chippie bit of this is simple stuff, getting the lead/flashings right is the important part.

I don’t know of any accreditation for trench digging, at the end of the day can you trust them? I would say do it yourself so you know it’s being done with care and respect for your neighbours etc. there are many construction jobs that should be left to the traddies but trench digging (assuming it’s not in the road or around other services) is a great DIY task

Great description - I know exactly what you mean

That’s quite a bit of water getting in, and looking at the location I reckon it has to be a flashing or missing pointing on the stack. Had it been part way down the wall then yes it would likely be water from inside the stack getting out but this is too localised. Has to be water on outside of stack or close by that is collecting above ceiling. Have you been in the loft? Wet insulation? Cold water tank in loft space leaking or collecting condensation close to stack?

Is the stack in use? Open pot or a cowl?

Put the details you know, you can’t sign as the installer but you could scribble not known etc. that would look like a signature.

Yes it dries very quickly and you can re coat as soon as the colour changes, you could do one thick coat but then you just get heavy runs and sagging.

Naarrr, that’s easy … they are all helical retaining units

As an apprentice sparky in a steelworks we were told a Bulb if it has a simple filament, Lamp if it is an assembly or has an igniter built into the “Bulb”.

If the holes are in the centre then the loss of material does not affect the beam as this area is not in tension or compression. If you do want to fill them use wood down or whittled to size and glue in with wood glue

Is the dimmer suitable for LED’s ? Assuming yes then you are looking at a faulty fitting (if just replacing the lamps but keeping the same fitting), heat or humidity are also factors for premature failure especially with dimmed lighting.

Good morning and welcome, getting reliable people is difficult in UK, rural France must be a nightmare. the learning curve is all part of the fun and process of building

As you are likely to be bedding them into sand/cement mortar you might as well fill the gaps as you go along.

Any maps or plans are often useless for anything but roughly finding services especially out in open ground. In a street / residential area it’s pretty easy but out in the sticks you need to be looking for supplies on poles or asking any locals.

Good morning and welcome, knock down and rebuild seems like a big drastic decision but you will thank yourself later on.

Seals can be replaced and doors (hinges and locking plates) can be adjusted. If the door is still sound I would get a local window place in for a couple of hours to sort it out, plus re seal around frame.