markc

The damp patch certainly appears to line up with the lower step/plinth. Do you have any pics before the door went in? What is the wall build up?

Joints are the key, whether that is board to board, board to block etc. and especially corners. tanking paint and sealing tape work very well as the elasticity copes with and movement. And yes, getting the backing right is to prevent problems if - when the grout fails. It’s very easy to install a shower and do a bit of tiling but rotten plasterboard, wall studs and flooring is very common when water gets behind the tiles.

Nothing wrong with tiling onto blockwork but you have surface mounted pipes the tiles need to go over? Are these going to be boxed?

Good Morning, not toning 🙈

Electric shower with a hot tank? Odd arrangement. Is the tap water pressure ok or quite low? As long as you have sufficient water flow coming in and a big enough combi to give you enough hot water for the shower then no problem losing the shower tank. If pressure is low but incoming flow rate is ok then a shower pump would sort the low pressure.

In this case I would bond (glue) the glass into the frame, take the glass out, thoroughly clean the glass and frame with a solvent cleaner, masking tape on the glass and frame where you don’t want the sticky stuff to go. Think I would use black OB1, CT1 or windscreen bond.

Good toning and welcome

If the draught is coming up through the gap I would say it wasn’t sealed underneath the new door. Pretty easy to fill the gap under the door and the strip inside. If draught/s are coming around the side, pull the cover strip off and fill the side and top gaps they probably left.

Some of the led work lamps (for plant and recovery trucks etc) are small and low profile and will give the spot effect without the bulk of a traditional spot fitting. Run on 12v and cheap as chips. I got some off eBay for my digger, approx 2 inches square and 1/2 inch thick and they are fantastic, think i payed about £4 each

Yes you can swap the fixings once the hollobolt (big Rivnut) has been set.

In this instance some leeway normal. Anyone working around that socket would (should) see that it’s an odd ball and additional care needed if drilling holes etc.

Hi and welcome

Even better if there is access to put tubes inside the box to prevent deformation of the box walls and subsequent flex in the posts.

Good morning and welcome, sounds like a great project

Hi, you won’t push it through, really needs pulling. Drain rods through first then use them to pull a rope through, then use rope to pull mdpe through. if you have a decent size compressor then air can be used to blow the rope through in place of drain rods.

A cavity tray is there to. Force any water collecting on a cavity bridge outwards away from the inner skin, if your cavity is deep enough for the box not to reach the inner skin it shouldn’t be needed, but, boxes taper towards the back so any condensate or water running off the top of the box would be directed towards the inner leaf and the wrong side of any insulation.

Depends what finish “look” you are thinking of, structural slab generally has large aggregate, others prefer the ground surface to have much smaller and/or coloured aggregate and much closer together (less sand/cement) so a screed layer (but concrete) over the structural slab

Hello and welcome,

Hi and welcome

Even the very best old welsh slate degrade over time, take the advice above and go with all new, working with old slates or tiles is horrible and only worth it in a conservation or listed building scenario

Going back to the switch, yes I recon the neutrals were linked in the box, not on the switch plate. .. they could have been used as lives but should have been taped accordingly if so. Put them in a wago or block on their own …. For now lol

No! Do not put neutrals in common, neutrals stay separate. Post a pic of what you have in the other box. simple switch is common and L1 or L2

12w just isn’t enough, to put it in context my cat water bowl pump is 4w and that’s just to move a trickle of water up around 6-8 inches

Uniform/uniformly distributed load

Instead on sitting rafters on top of wall plate you could notch them over the wall plate and support the lower edge with hangers onto wall plate. This would reduce your height while keeping the full depth rafter