-
Posts
3801 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
22
Everything posted by markc
-
The question/sticking points here would be, would a rung of a ladder be classed or accepted as floor and escape windows must be at eye level. Again could this be on a ladder? Probably no to both, but what if there was a small platform or landing? I’m going to say no, you won’t get away with it, even though the likelihood of needing it is relatively low.
-
Do you mean a fixed ladder on the inside?
-
@nod would be able to give much for info and detail but yes, the beads are rotten and need replacing, loose paint looks like water behind so the loose stuff needs scraping off to allow drying/see what’s going on.
-
Watched a couple the other day, they are really informative and clear. I will be picking your brains in the near future as I’m just in the process of buying another place.
-
Put the adhesive down where it will push up into the holes and slots then it doesn’t need to stick to the metal. There won’t (shouldn’t be) any lift so any forces on the bottom track will be sliding/shearing. The adhesive squeezed up into the track holes/slots will prevent any side to side movement.
-
You only regret buying 22mm when you are carrying them up a ladder .. or carrying them anywhere come to think of it.
-
Great, in that case go for the 22mm, floor will be much more rigid and the extra cost is minimal
-
Is this for storage or usable rooms? Were the trusses designed for the floor loading? Or are they ordinary roof trusses?
-
Good post, i am looking forward to comments.
-
Accessible plumbing options with double ended bath
markc replied to Richini's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Wall mounted tap/mixer and shower head in the centre -
I’ve been buying and selling cherry pickers, especially spiders for over 25 years.
- 22 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- the windy roost
- caithness
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
@George good point, I never considered a shear load at the corner, this would explain why the joint hasn’t opened / bowed the outer leaf
-
@crowe thanks for that, must have been an optical illusion, so yes standards bricks and bond. Now for what is pushing the outer leaf away - could be the extension pulling but the crack is too focused and uniform. I did see something similar where the cavity was filled with a wool type insulation and it got wet, this corroded the ties and also added load pushing the outer leaf away. i strongly suggest you get a Structural Engineer or very good (not mortgage adviser) type surveyor to have a look. At the very least wall tie replacement but probably cavity clean out as well.
-
That’s odd, do you have a pic from the front as well? Trying to work out how it’s bonded, appears the corners are a sort of wrap around brick?
-
+1 on the above. done far too many small portals as fill in jobs and lost money on every one …. And that was during 90’s when steel erectors walked over portals, climbed columns and monkeyed across purlins.
- 22 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- the windy roost
- caithness
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Pics? If crack is wider at the top then it’s breaking its back … outer end is sinking or middle is heaving. Get some pics up and let’s have a look
-
Good morning and welcome, finding the plot is the biggest hurdle, I have been looking for a rural/semi rural plot/knock down etc. around south and West Yorkshire for over 5 years now. I have seen a few come up but I wanted more land - at least an acre so quite a bit more difficult.
-
Keep It Simple !
-
Hello and welcome, as above, search first and if nothing suitable as the question/s ideally with some pics and specifics because subsidence/underpinning etc. has many variables and loads of causes and remedies.
-
The end cap should seal on the washer, not the threads, over tightening is likely to cause it to leak as the washer will be pushed out of place. Pull washer out and inspect - probably split or deformed. Replace the washer and only finger tight, problem solved
-
At 5.5m and flat roof so possible high snow loadings etc. I wouldn’t use solid timber, the self weight (unless looking at 200-250mm timbers) will tend to sag sistered or not, I would be looking at pozi’ joist or cold rolled purlins.
-
I can’t see any problem with the small overhang in a place that won’t get knocked. Or you could use angle brackets on underside of the truss but seems a lot of faff for little gain
-
Good thinking, if you made a nice job of it, made it a feature for them and something they don’t need to maintain then yes it could be a nice touch
