markc

Beam can be above joists to keep a clean soffit / ceiling line, it does make connections somewhat more complicated tho. padstone looks ok, a little off centre but I have seen much worse. back to the underslung joists, what is above them? Is it just roof space or a usable room? Because this affects the loadings

It’s a garden shed, as long as it’s not habitable then no regs or approvals apart from dimensions (floor area and eaves height) so you can just get on with it.

Morning, this is one an SE because your BCO will (should) ask for the calcs.

Cable on surface or buried without the conduit

No you don’t need planning “consent” to abandon a project and return to original. However you could find yourself on the wrong side of BC if the original didn’t comply and you put it back as it was I.e the original foundations would now be deemed insufficient so to reinstate you would need to put in new founds with BC sign off etc.

Yep! They look very close to some precast benches we were asked to lift in. When the guy said they were around a grand for each 2m block he was told to “drop them in place” his self.

Reinforcing is tied together so it acts as a continuous piece, overlap and wire together.

Pretty typical ex council house outhouse, concrete slab roofs were lifted on in one piece usually. Good concrete little reinforcing. Will happily self support over a single doorway but would need support for a double door size opening.

@Pocster with Mod power …. Be afraid …. Be very afraid! But it gets my vote just for the sh#£s and giggles.

Hi and welcome

Morning, for your 6 or 8 holes I would be hiring the cutter. If it’s new then won’t be distorted or side worn so excess wear isn’t going to be an issue. concrete especially war time era around steel producing industries can contain a lot of slag which is very abrasive and a PITA to cut through. Keep the water flowing to flush the cut and let the cutter go at its own pace. And yes cores can look amazing, I used to have one we took from a bridge pier - it was more steel than concrete!

Should be hardly any wear at all doing those holes, mesh doesn’t cause much heat or wear. Measure the bit before you take it and when you get back with a signature. They always put down 2 or 3mm of wear and impossible to argue when the invoice comes in.

Good morning and welcome, we all start somewhere. Loads of info available on here, searching past threads is likely to pull up similar projects to learn from.

I would split windows and doors off as one package, general building works as another, electrics, roofing, plumbing again separate

If you are tiling over anyway then sand and cement is fine, the render stuff is likely to be cement and a high silica sand similar to fire cement.

Ahh, looks like I misunderstood, I thought you wanted to put something under a hearth to raise it, hence the almost dry mix. If you are putting it on top then mix more like concrete or stiff mortar and compact it down well. Compact/tamp using a piece of timber or board and a hammer or mallet.

Agree with both of the above, fixing wall units to a continuous ply strip is so easy and curse free. 100x easy and nicer than drilling and plugging etc.

Agree with the above, going over a) reduces depth so increases risk of freezing and b) gives an additional cold spot from the culvert itself. Bit of extra digging and get it under.

Yes, absolutely fine under a concrete, stone or slate etc. hearth. I wouldn’t ‘cast’ the hearth surface using just sand and cement but definitely ok under a solid hearth. If you don’t have a hearth to fit then cast in concrete and top with tiles or similar.

Damp Sharp sand and cement will work well.

You can set gates to auto close after a time, but even with ones you close with a remote etc. the photo cells are a good idea as it is easy to click close and then someone tries to get in before they close or you click to close and then something prevents you clearing the gate area, most closers sense an obstruction but the edge of a gate will make a mess of a car door before it opens again. gate stop posts are often placed just inside the posts but then they are easily hit as you turn in with a car etc. I much prefer a low centre stop (hinged so you can flip it down if very low ar needs to go out or in).

Photo cells on the outside are a good idea to prevent gates closing before you get out of the way. A gate stop in the centre gives the gates something positive to close against and reduces rattling and wind movement. sensing loops are not needed at home, they are to auto open gates when you approach from the inside. Crush sensors are used in public areas but I’ve never had them on my gates. a beacon is an easy fit even afterwards and I always use because it gives a positive signal gate is or should be moving … easier to see as you leave and especially at night.

Strong boys are good for 300kgs ish each, and spacing is usually much less than 1m. From past experience about 500mm apart with a brick story above, but SEcwill have used a load to calc the beam so that’s the load you should use to determine number of supports

I would say £695 is a bargain and not worth messing about.

What damp line? Was this question supposed to follow on from another thread?