LaChab

@Nickfromwales Thanks, advice appreciated. @John Carroll Thanks for the suggestion. Those combined things do look interesting, and looking at Screwfix etc very widely used I think. Unfortunately no sink nearby, and also I'm going to fit connections for 3 appliances.

Thanks @Nickfromwales Quite agree about accessibility, that's partly why I'm dubious about using the void. Would like to avoid cluttering up the cupboard / drawer unit if possible. What do you think about using one of those nozzles you referred to in that topic with a HepVo. Would that seem better than the Amazon thing? That would go under the kickspace.....

Hi, I'm trying to get my head round how to connect the washing machine (and TD, DW). I wondered if anyone has used one of these, or similar. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mounted-Siphon-Washing-Machine-Chrome/dp/B00D6FCQO4/ref=asc_df_B00D6FCQO4?mcid=10ef8fd756793f09b624b4235a47ccce&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696352102719&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10560092967412209591&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20339&hvtargid=pla-422507636596&psc=1&hvocijid=10560092967412209591-B00D6FCQO4-&hvexpln=0&gad_source=1 I think it might fit in the kickspace next to the appliance, along with the cold feed and 13a socket, which would be quite neat. BUT I'm worried about not using a conventional standpipe waste. And I can't understand where a standpipe would go, as the void in the back of diy kitchens is only 42mm, and I'd rather not remove the back of the unit. Advice badly needed!

FWIW, our SE approved using starter bars (frame) screwed through to the core. Wouldn't dream of cutting back the inner insulation!

@SteamyTea @JohnMo Thanks. I'll try and cut down on the over thinking!

@SteamyTea Thanks for the reassurance! Could you possibly give me an idea of what I would need for the separate component system.

@SteamyTea Thanks for the explanation. That's really helpful. Althougfh a bit worrying as well!

@cjsparkey Thanks for that.

Hi, I'd welcome some guidance on buying a solar inverter. We've recently fitted the panels, so we now need to buy an inverter. (possibly Solax X1 Hybrid G4, as we've had one of their string inverters fitted to our current system for >10 years with no problems) It seems a bit short term to get a string inverter, as I'm sure we'll be getting batteries some time. (Fogstar Seplos look interesting) I don't really understand AC charging (Victron?), so I was going to go for a simple hybrid inverter, but I'm worried about compatibility with the battery. I've no wish to be restricted to batteries of the same make as the inverter. Is that a problem? Does the inverter need to interface with the batteries? Are there common standards? Does it matter? So many unknowns!

@jayc89 Thanks for the reference to Airguard. I'll have a look. I'm sure Intello is good, but as I've got a cold roof I'm not sure that I need variable membrane, just airtight. Hoping for advice!

Hi, I'd really welcome some thoughts and advice about selecting an air tight membrane for the upper floor ceiling. I've done loads of searches and read lots of topics, but I can't really find an answer. It's an ICF house, with a ventilated cold roof built with attic trusses. My plan is to have some PIR hung under the attic floor joists to give a continuous layer, then possibly some more PIR and/or rockwool in between the joists. But I've no idea what to use for the membrane. I'm sure it needs to be airtight, but would just polythene sheet be good, or do I need something more technical? And do I put it between the plasterboard ceiling and the PIR, or above the PIR and under the truss joists? Or fit both? And any recomendations for what adhesive to use for bonding the membrane to the EPS walls would be great. Thanks for reading,

@craig Thanks for the support for side fix. I went for the original supplier because they're "Internorm Platinum", and I thought they would make the best job of installation. so I was really suprised when I enquired about the fitting spec and found that they just used 330 foam with no membrane / tape at all. As I've said, I think face fix is difficult to conceal behing the plasterboard, especially with a 10mm gap. Hopefully the "new" supplier will work out ok with "i3" sealing.

@craig Thanks for the input. No check reveal, just 15mm stop beads on the Jackon closure. It was mainly the fact that they were unable to guarantee the work if they fitted a "side attached" membrane, despite charging £1k.I've now asked for a quote from another Internorm dealer who actually offer a membrane as an option, although it's still £1k!.

@Russell griffiths Yes, those pictures make the problem a bit obvious! Did you cut into the foam for your cills? We're using thin coat render, so wouldn't be a huge overlap without going into the foam, but still be a big improvement.

@Chanmenie @Russell griffiths Yes, cills first sounds much better. Trouble I hink that would mean having a second lot of scaffold just to do the sides of the reveals. I was intendiung to use the liquid membrane you like before the cill is fitted, so perhaps that and something suitable (silicone? tape?) between the upright side of the cill and the side of the reveal might be ok. Wouldn't be ideal, but probaly waterproof........ The reveals havn't been rendered yet (weather!), so if I found the section of the cills I could "block of" just the lower bit of side render, then patch it in by ladder after the cills have been fitted.