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tonyshouse

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Everything posted by tonyshouse

  1. It is unlikely any of the wires in the loft will be for anything other than lighting (some bungalows excepted). Check size by measuring carefully and comparing with wires near the consumer unit most difficult is to distinguish between three core used for smoke alarms, two way switching and double switches and ring main cable thickness will tell yo rather than width. very big fat cabled can be for shower.
  2. Noggin and drill hole in it for wire for pendants fix boxes after p board, fast fix are nice, thermostat 1.5m whole sheet behing buffer tank, 50 X 200 noggin behind that to fix into p board can carry wall cupboards so pictures easy, hogs for coat hooks and shelves, tv phone, Ethernet, light switch by bed for landing light
  3. Senses, When I test for moisture I drill a hole, collect the debris, weigh it, dry it in a warm oven, re weigh it and calculate the % moisture what do you do?
  4. My experience is that all timber arrives on site about the same, it shrinks a lot during the first heating season and by the end of the second one even the biggest timbers have fully shrunk. site operations including rain, plastering, even plumbing and plasterers spelling water have negligible effects. timber shrinks plates, joists, skirtings, linings, window boards, the key is to design and build so that these do not impact on air tightness.
  5. Wet plaster, you can see the cracks and fill them, tonytray eliminates draughts within floor void and shrinkage has no influence. robust details like sealing skirting to floor never could work.
  6. I understood something similar that it was like having a vent light open all year round and building regs like having a patio door open.
  7. Very small, I left my cooker hood duct open for one test
  8. Be careful, they all want as much as possible off you and you want to pay the least for a good job, choose carefully.
  9. Buy wood and build what you ant on site
  10. From a regulatory view point it does not pass.
  11. For me no dpc injection or dpm etc, yes to thermal lining though min 50mm insulation, prefer more
  12. Too many doors in dining room, garage can be single skin masonry, cheapest, consider making openin from k to d/r to as near to WC as possible, move sink, create utility area near WC door. Materials same as house for extension
  13. Maybe anti the continuing proliferation of plasterboard tents?
  14. Cut and fit, neatly and go for it. It can be delaminated too and used as 140 + 40. Don't squash it or leave gaps,
  15. I paid £500 ! Four years ago
  16. Two courses of medium density blocks, then one course of bricks toothed in and repeat foundations should be ok remove any wooden lintel at the top, wet plaster,
  17. If it is a heated area then the insulation barrier should consistently run all round, over and under it.
  18. A problem would show up quite soon unless someone puts a chunk of 4x2 under one end and then the pipe could take years to sag and deform.
  19. Make them out of ali or lead or buy fibreglass verge trims? also you could oversail slates by 50mm and nail fix slates to the verge, poly sulphide pointing where they join.
  20. Not a plumber, well may be but certainly not a drainage engineer. water flows downhill, simple and very basic, there is even the ammount of fall available, just not used.
  21. Can a tundish have two inputs from blow-offs/relief valves or should each valve have a seperate dish?
  22. Closing the door after the horse has bolted! Sealing skirtings to floors -- yikes, ther shouldn't be draughts under the first floor or behind the walls. close up cooker hood duct and fan ducts temporarily, check all trickle vents close properly, check under thresholds and window boards, ceiling roses to first floor should have caulk round where the wires enter, pipes in airing cupboard, first floor joists etc for some info see this and scan site for more info
  23. It must be fire proof if it is close to the boundary, draw the plans if you already have permission then just do it.
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