tonyshouse

I would add a binder and some hangers , generally old ceilings sag as joists were undersized and without intermediate structure

Compare the bathroom.com half the price of my merchant and good quality

Ridge beam to span 7m would be huge eg 450mm deep gluelam or 300mm steel depending on type of tiles and roof covering if ties you can use rods or wire ropes etc they don’t need to be wood

If you want soundproof use dense materials, concrete planks and recycled aggregate blocks seal all air paths

Mine is 300mm full fill ?

Traditionally every fourth rafter, is there a ceiling tie? What supports the prop? In my view it should be a hanger not a prop , how big are the ceiling joists?

Internally wet plaster is thousands of times better than parge coat and stuck on linings

That wouldn’t stop the drips, they would land on the MDF which would swell and go mouldy

You need to decide where the air tightness layer is, what it is and how it joins or seals to the adjoining ones. basically everyone’s home is a colander with draughts everywhere I worked hard to get a good level of airtightness - it is tough - easier on a self build set target u values 0.1? And have an air tightness target to aim at, test it before finishes, 0.6 or 1 Not 3, 5 or 10

Insulated ceiling ventilation above - will be difficult

Cant see enough, don’t like the piles of bricks !

Portal frames could be wood (gluelam) new or s/h steel I would not use SIPs are you meaning acoustic performance inside or stopping noise getting out?

Is ok to bridge dpc with eps, I would chamfer tomorrow edge to 45 and rub the breather membrane over it

Secret gutter not stepped flashing, goes under tiles and catches water, second best is soakers

We drill through the back of the box, thread that and yes 75mm socket box screw

For me the coldest place is on top of the dpc under the sole plate ? Just where you don’t want condensation to collect, I would add some mitigating insulation across the dpc 300 up, 300 below say 25mm eps perimeter insulation may as well be 100mm

I call an integrated garage an in-house winter cooling system. Others include soil and vent pipe boxings, fans, ducts

The little holes won’t or shouldn’t go right through the slab, 55mm deep should do and then water wouldn’t come up them

Sorry, what are the external walls made of?

I hate flat roofs and hate with a vengeance parapet walls what is your air tightness target and design U-values?

How will you stop the straw getting wet if it sirs at ground level, I would like to see 75mm min ideally 150mm drop from bottom of straw to ground.

Is the top of the slab above outside ground level?

NZEB doesn’t seem to have energy use or heating demand numbers which I think it ought to and is why I like MINERGIE and PH

I think air changes per hour are always way too high, I can turn my MVHR off at night in very cold weather as there are only two of us in the house, generally on 10% at night which equates to 0.1 ACH during the day we use less than .4ach but do open a window first thing. With guests we stick to the designed ach

Search web, drive to Europe to get them, but if new build you can get the VAT back. I used to get huge discounts from my roofing supplier and plated them off against one of the big merchants to keep prices sharp, I have filed over 1200 veluxes though