tonyshouse

Chicken wire with small holes and foam

Yes, would be best to insulate it with thick walled pipe lagging to avoid getting caught out by the water company and fix or duct it so it can’t move.

They will likely charge for doing a new connection there normally I take such pipes only to the property boundary nearest to the existing stopcock

I use 3G stepped at the bottom, no lead above, Ali trims all round to form drips, not much more than cost of the glass plus glazing bars between panes if needed

So many downsides of recessed lights, best policy is avoid them all together

I hate recessed lights, there are now a reasonable number of very slimline surface mounted luminaries

Best place is on the warm side of the insulation

Not a problem as the batten is tight against the rafter no air can leak as poly is trapped tight with the fixing. Make sure screws or nails don’t miss

The lower the heat loss of the house, the lower the flow temperature needed and the wider apart the pipes can be and the less energy it uses

MVHR for me , PIV wastes heat big time

Likely so do the lintel manufacturers. if it were mine I would replace them with angle irons - building regs or the inspector might ask for calcs, these could be difficult/impossible and ugly trying to replace a lintel after the roof has been built.

Tray lintels are designed to carry blocks, the plate should be as thin as possible to save undercut that weakens rafter. I would prefer to see decent angle iron, all the lintel does is introduce thermal bridging when the outside tray is doing nothing

Trouble is future cracking, for me exposed blocks are unacceptable as if/when they crack there will be draughts,

I hate undercloaks, they track water into the verges , better off designing then out

Insane, very draughty

Where feasible worries me, best approach is fabric first, solar can’t really contribute towards heating as it is least available when most needed. I live without heating. No bills either ? direct electric is 100% efficient, heat pumps 300 or 400% efficient oil stinks! Bottled gas could work for cooking and hot water. interested to hear what he says,.

Triggered an idea for an extension of that detail to protect the non-joisted part of the first floor void. In addition to polythene or similar to replace joist caps, drape another length of membrane across the top of the wall from one joist to its neighbour. Overhanging the inner leaf on both faces. Then after ceiling board and floor board installed, pull the overhangs in and tape to the respective boards, as well as to the airtight membrane or tape at the respective wall junctions. Treating the entire floor void as a quasi-joist. For those who are constrained to have no more than plasterboard on dabs. The tonytray does all round

tonytray ?

And get into your rooms and first floor void

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Run a new pipe from the cistern in the loft. some modern mixer valves can cope with cold mains and hot from rank

Does not solve any of the problems I highlighted above except now you live in a fermacel tent instead of a plasterboard one

Air leakage, thermal bypass, cold draughts, living in plasterboard tent, draughts everywhere, for starters

My advice for what it is worth would be no membrane, in the occupied basement the partial vapour pressure of the moisture in the air will be higher than the partial vapour pressure in the air pockets in the wall or in the ground beyond the walls. THEREFORE moisture in the air will move outwards and downwards from the room into the ground. with membranes there will be a danger and at times of reality that condensation will occur and sweating, silverfish, mould and other problems to start happening. Most likely high up on the coldest parts of the walls in very cold weather Small quantities of liquid water from inside or outside will not be stopped by the above process but will be dealt with slowly and effectively. Plumbing leaks and flooding won’t.

Yuk!