IanR

I've split my area up into Zones. I can get quite a lot of solar gain in certain areas, so zones are good for me, allowing those rooms benefitting for the solar gain to not be heated by the UFH.

~ £40/m², but you don't need much EPS300 - just under the beams.

Yep, AFT do a version of their "MonoBeam" Raft that can be supported on Piles https://www.advancedfoundationtechnologylimited.co.uk/our-products/ecoraft-monobeam/ You'd need to check about Install, I'm not sure they'd do the Piling, but would have thought any piling company could do that. They will do the Install of the Raft, but the way they'd do it is with one guy coming to your site and you providing two labourers to work with him. Edited to add: And their "Type L" Raft will go on piles. If you plan a timber-framed structure, I'd probably go with this, It's a simpler solution and is close in performance to their Passive Raft, which I have. https://www.advancedfoundationtechnologylimited.co.uk/our-products/timber-steel-icf-framed-building-foundation/

I have an AFT raft, and can thoroughly recommend them. Engineered and supplied via Springvale, UFH Design and Supply included. They'll help with the Install if you wish to self-build or support your groundworks contractor. There's more on that list than when I was researching, which is good to see. I found a number of companies were over-Engineering their rafts though, and specifying much thicker rafts than were required. Here's mine

Rishi has signalled quite a change in policy, hopefully there will be some new numbers published to support the statement. In today's interview he has said that even when we meet Net Zero in 2050 "a quarter of our domestic energy needs will still come from oil and gas" That's a bit different from the Energy White paper from 2019, where Gas CCUS makes up < 10% :

Oops. Double-post

Ubiquity hardware is Enterprise level and therefore a little more expensive than consumer hardware but generally worth the money. Mine has worked seamlessly for 6 years needing only 1 or 2 reboots. But, maybe not that switch. It's a managed switch with loads of functionality that you are unlikely to use. Ubiquity APs will work fine attached to an unmanaged PoE switch, but, not all PoE are equal. I was just about to describe the 3 PoE types, but grabbing a suitable image highlights a fourth that I wasn't aware of: I believe the Unifi APs would work off a standard PoE connection, but I've not looked at the newer WiFi6 ones. Even if they did, I'd still recommend at least PoE+, as some CCTV cameras require that power level. When looking at the spec of a switch just check that all ports can be run at the power rating at the same time. Cheaper switches may not allow this. It's not clear on the marketing, but the Ubiquity UniFi range requires a Gateway console in order to set up the hardware, integrate them and give you all the functionality. You can install the software on a PC and use it that way, but the Gateway needs to be running if you want to use the smartphone apps, so it's better if it's on an always-on device. Some of the Ubiquity hardware includes the Gateway Console, but not the normal APs unfortunately. It may be worth considering a Ubiquity Dream Router (UDR), which will act as one Access Point, includes the Gateway Console and will supply x2 PoE outputs to drive 1 or 2 additional APs. It will need a little more planning though, as the best setup would be to turn your Sky Router into a bridge (assuming that can be done), and then route the WAN (broadband) connection through the UDR WiFi. That way all your WiFi will be under UniFi management . Re. CCTV. Simplest would be to have an NVR with integrated PoE Switch to control all the Cameras from. Makes that side of the install completely plug and play. Edited to add: If you go for a PoE+ Switch, something like this: https://www.netxl.com/poe-network-switches/netgear-16-port-network-switch-gs116pp-100eus/ I've not used this one, but I've found Netgear switches to just run and run. This is fanless also, which I struggled to find when installing my own network.

Hi and Welcome. Interesting roof. Have you got a plan on how it's going to be constructed? While I'm not involved in the construction industry, I got involved in developing the "patterns" to metal clad a similar roof on two properties, being built on Sandbanks, off Poole. From the steel structure supporting it, to the ply deck and the metal cladding there were 100's and 100's of man hours to make it work. Looked amazing when done, but must have taken up about 50% of a very high construction budget. Hopefully you have a good main contractor. Edited to add: Is that a peg tile? or something that looks similar. You've got some areas on the roof where the pitch is barely 5°. What tile are you using that can work on that pitch?

Sounds like they are just delivering their "Heat in Buildings Strategy", announced a couple of years back. UK Government announced a similar strategy, but were generally 1 or 2 years behind on each step.

And there are many 500 year old timber frame buildings still standing, but that's not the norm.

That's harsh. Carbon foot-print for construction versus building performance are two entirely different processes that are not compatible for being captured within a single control system. Yes, the PH Institute could run a separate "Standard" for construction, but so could anyone else. It's generally better for companies to focus on their expertise though than attempt to be all things to all (wo)men. I'd also say that if they were too prescriptive with regards construction method there would be a lot less buildings constructed under PH principles. Not everyone wants to build sustainably sourced timber-frame houses using only natural insulation. I'd say that's also why PH targets are based on area/volume rather than occupancy. ie. to not dictating that the home owner should only allow xm² per occupant.

Yes, but for the completed building in day to day use. Not the construction of the building.

PassivHaus principles do not relate to the carbon "foot-print", sustainability, waste, pollution or really any aspect of construction method. It's a building performance standard that relates to the completed building, with comfort at its core. Probably why it has succeeded where the Code for Sustainable Homes which tried to cover everything from construction through to end of life fell by the wayside as it was far too complicated.

I've also had one fully exposed for 3 years without issue. Great product,+100m range In the open.

I boxed in my steels and sprayed expanding foam in to full fill the volume.

My limited experience is that there's no issue with electrics within the insulated wall/roof, as long as cables are appropriately sized. I didn't need to run MVHR ducting with the wall/roof so didn't need to consider the compromise, but I would avoid if at all possible - maybe less of a compromise in a 450 thick wall, but that is an unusually thick "Warmcell" wall. With Touchwood/Wilkinson providing the MVHR design & Install, all the I-Joists are delivered pre-drilled for the duct runs. Plumbing can't go in the external wall/roof, but I didn't find this too much of a restriction - false walls for concealed cisterns, boxed in baths and vanity units provided sufficient cover for most of my plumbing. I ended up with only one room's wall and ceiling requiring a service void to run some plumbing through.

I'm not sure I'd call what Touchwood/WilkinsonPH/Adam provides a "kit". Some of the I-Joists do come pre-cut, but many don't. To me it is a stick build, just goes up very fast with minimal waste on site. There is a charge for JJI to pre-cut the joists, the decision on what is cut and what is not is down what is most cost effective. Yes, sole and eaves plates are pre-machined with a 3mm notch at every upright position, so that when the frames is going up there's a lot less measuring (once the sole plates are down) and each upright is just slotted into position. What is remarkable, is the AT achieved without any air tightness membrane, and there is no separate vapour barrier. The wall and roof build up is very simple. The air tightness results come partially from the detailing of the external fibreboard layer at the CTD stage, partially from Adam's "tricks of the trade" and liberal use of non-curing butyl adhesive on the external layer and partially from the blown cellulose fibre insulation.

Absolutely agree. 0.2ACH is his target, sub 0.1 ACH on mine.

Glad to hear the Wilkinson's are still building houses, their social media presence has gone quiet of late. I can't remember the actual payment schedule for Touchwood, but I felt it lowered the risk as much as possible. The initial deposit covered the CTD Frame design, Touchwood's input to the Frame design, Structural Calcs and the PHPP analysis (if you go all in). If it all goes wrong after, you still have the frame design, including cutting list, structural calcs and a comprehensive set of erection drawings. The next payment is to cover JJI fees for supplying the semi-cut frame and it's delivered directly to your site, so doesn't sit in anyone's warehouse. The Frame is ready for delivery a few weeks after the payment and JJI is a big firm. The next payment covers the Wilkinson's erections costs, and they'll be on site to receive the JJI delivery. The last payment is made as they finish. If you include MVHR design and install from them I guess there's an upfront payment for that also.

What speeds do you get on Starlink? Starlink quote 25Mb/s - 100Mb/s down and 5Mb/s - 20Mb/s Up for a "standard" connection I get a symmetrical 60Mb/s - 90Mb/s on 4G. (£14/month unlimited from Three)

The Schedule? No, not really. On the SMO40 I block the compressor over night (so that nothing runs) and then allow it to run during the day whenever there is a call for heat. I guess you could call it a timer, but Blocking is not specific to hot water or climate.

Assuming you have either the SMO 20 or 40 controller then there is a Scheduler for Hot Water (and a separate one for Climate (Space Heating/Cooling). In the Scheduler there's a Tab for up to 2 daily periods to schedule the the HW On. If neither are active then it will come on any time it needs to across the day. If you want to restrict the times it will heat water then activate one or two of the tabs and set a time on each day within the tab that you wish it to operate.

Still working for me.

Yes, but... The same effects can be created with different compilations of lights, rather than the same lights at different intensity levels. I've only used dimmers where I have a single group of lights in a room, ie. Bedrooms. Other rooms that have, say, main ceiling lights, some wall lights, LED strip and a 5A lamp or two can be combined in numerous different scenes to provide different lighting levels.

I feel you need to separate them, more for not having the canopy overhanging the barbecue. I've found Plumb trees to be vigorous growers, even dwarfs and columnars. For instance I had to really cut back a columnar plumb last year that was only 3 years old and had already spread 1.5m either side.