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PPPoE is for the Broadband/WAN connection and DHCP is for the LAN connection (The DMR is the gateway between the two) So, setting WAN to PPoE will not effect the the LAN side. If your phone has connected previously and you haven't disabled the DHCP Server on the DMR we can assume DHCP is still enabled. Since you are not familiar with DHCP, it's likely that your laptop is also on its default Network settings (ie. , but it's worth checking. Is teh Laptop set up to automatically configure it's Network settings. If so, then this is use DHCP to retrieve it's settings from the DMR. On a Windows machine, the TCP/IPv4 Properties for the Ethernet connection should be set as below Switch the Laptop Wi-Fi off and connect a network cable between laptop and Port 1, then reboot the laptop. Ref. https://www.4gon.co.uk/documents/User-Manual-4075916.pdf You should then be able to open a browser and type http://192.168.1.1 and land on the login page for the router.

Is your laptop set to DHCP? The DMR would be setup as a DHCP server by default, have you changed that? If in doubt factory reset the DMR and start again. You have to connect to Port 1 to config the DMR via Network cable.

The HP will have two different flow temps, the lower one for Space Heating, which could be in the 35°C degree range, and a higher one for DHW which would be to achieve a stored water temp of the 50°C I mentioned, so would peak at 55°C. If you are budget constrained, simplify the system and avoid a Buffer, accepting you will have at least a portion of the UFH always open, but electric resistance heating for taps and showers is a false economy, you'll be paying around 3 times as much to heat your hot water and have a poorer hot water service.

Hi MattT, and Welcome Maybe, but you'll need to have sufficient volume of the UFH always "open". The HP will have a minimum volume of water it needs to avoid short cycling so if you don't have a buffer then you need some/all of the UFH to always be open to the HP to meet that minimum volume. There's not one solution that suits all properties. If you have a number of other heat sources that effect the property, ie. solar gain, WBS, cooking, occupation levels then you may need a control over the UFH that can adjust to the dynamic nature of those other sources and in those circumstances you may want all loops of the UFH to be able to be closed and then you will require a buffer or volumiser. In those circumstances a volumiser is the simpler option, ie. 2 port tank in the flow or return line (it's generally thought the return is the better option). A 3 or 4 port buffer has a specific use case where you have other heat emitters that use much less energy than the HP can modulate down to ie. a wet duct heater on an MVHR system or perhaps a fan coil heater, and you want a store of water at as close to flow temp as possible for those heating options. Yes, HP efficiency drops off the higher the flow temp it is run at, so for space heating and DHW you want to run each as low as you can. In a well insulated house you may be able to get your space heating flow temp below 30°C for much of the year, increasing it only for the coldest nights. Weather Compensation curves allow this to be automated. Not quite sure what you are saying here. With an ASHP you do require a water cylinder for DHW. Most would go with a UVC. To keep the ASHP flow temp at a reasonable level the UVC should be sized to supply sufficient hot water for the house at a stored water temp of, say, 50°C. Yes the UVC will have an immersion, but this is not used to generally lift the stored water temp to a higher level, except for a fortnightly legionella prevention cycle when the water is lifted to 60°C

Then a 50mm high grid and gravel should remain stable, with good edge support, but will cost a lot more than planings. I have planings on the farm track up to the property, done years ago and was never rollered. The surface does break up, similar to what you are saying. A similar track at a neighbours doesn't break up and his was rollered in hot weather. The local farmers tale is that you need to roller in +18°C. I'm planning to put another 50mm on mine and do just that.

Out of interest, what did the road planings go down on? Are the pot holes the planning surface breaking up, or is it the sub structure moving? The interlinking plastic honeycomb tiles require a sub structure (150mm hardcore), same as planings, so I'd expect it to move just the same, unless your issue is the surface layer breaking up.

So should be available to Cast to another Alexa device (the Wiim Mini or Pro) on the Network. The Workaround for Google is to Upload your personal Library to YouTube Music (up to 100,000 track free), connect YouTube Music to your Google Home account and then Stream your own tracks from YouTube Music for free.

Yes, a Mini or Pro per amp That's down to Alexa rather than the Wiim device. The Wiim device is just catching the Alexa Cast audio stream. Are you saying that Alexa will play an album off your LMS via voice command (or do you mean from a connected Streaming Service) If that works from your LMS local audio Library then I'd have thought "Cast album xxx to $Wiim_Device_name" would work.

Have you looked at Wiim? https://www.wiimhome.com/wiimmini/overview I don't know Alexa streaming and Alexa Cast, but thought it was similar functionality to Chromecast, which I am familiar with. With a Wiim Mini or Wiim Pro you can turn an "old" amp and speakers into a connected amp and speakers, group them with other similarly connected devices etc. You'd need one Mini or Pro for each amp. Not sure about Alexa Cast, but Chromecast will handle Streaming Service, Internet Radio, Podcasts etc. I think you'd need a separate App to play off your NAS. I use Plex and its integral Chromecast for that, but without Voice Control for Plex.

Yes. For the portion the "Additional Heat" is being used you're achieving at best a COP of 1. ie. 1 kWh of electricity for 1 kWh of heat into the house. If you can leave all your heating and DHW requirements to the compressor, you'll be achieving 2, 3, 4 or 5 times that - depending on the difference between outside air temp and flow temp.

Additional Heat can be switched off (Blocked), if the Compressor can cover all heating and DHW requirements at all temps. Try it, and if you find it's not managing to heat the house sufficiently put it back on. You may need to extend the ASHP running time if it's currently using additional heat regularly. I found the Nibe Controller brought it on unnecessarily. Biasing "Comfort" over efficiency. I wouldn't switch the UVC Immersion off. It's likely used for Legionella cycle.

It is Additional Electrical resistance heating, but for my Nibe it's integral in the heat pump and separate to the immersion in the DHW tank. I keep mine 100% Blocked so that it's never used, but my HP is overs-sized so can comfortably cover heating and DHW requirements. "Blocked" will be in your controller settings. But can also be blocked by Schedule and/or Schedule Blocking

For reasonable air quality, you don't need to have your MVHR on as you are above 3m³/m².h@50Pa of natural infiltration. Had you been below then perhaps BC would have wanted to know more about the MVHR. I guess though that as you've installed MVHR you haven't got any other form of extraction to outside for your wet-rooms, in which case you'd need the MVHR on for boost. Can your MVHR be configured to be on but with 0% fan speed, if so I'd set it up like that for most of the time and just run the fans for boost. Since you don't need the MVHR for air quality, then having it running 24 hours a day will incur you extra losses as you are ventilating more than you need and loosing energy when you do.

Factory applied for me, although on another window the glass did have to come out so the silicone was reapplied and I can barely tell the difference. With MVHR on we never get any condensation.

On my specific example I'm not aware of a better technology than injecting a damp course, which I know isn't robust. So damp will get into the wall and needs to be permitted to get back out. For me this is also somewhat under the control of the Conservation Officer at the LPA since it is a Listed Building, so removing sections of wall and installing a modern damp course isn't an option. The renovation completed in 1980 using cement render was also under the guidance of the Conservation Officer, and the guidance was wrong then, so may well be again, but lime render and plaster is now what is prescribed, and is backed up by English Heritage.

The first image is a fixed sash and the second and opening one. Both have the silicon bead between glass and frame.

In absolute terms you are right, but, on old solid walls with poor or no DPC, they will draw in damp from the ground by capillary action and need to be able to transfer that moisture to the outside. Cement based renders and plasters are known to restrict that transfer of moisture to the outside so it builds up to a level that then shows damp issues. Lime based renders and plaster are more vapour open and allow the moisture out so that it doesn't build up. Earliest DPC's were late 19th C. Injecting a damp proof course to remedy older walls helps but is not robust and has a finite life. Unless you are sure of a robust DPC you shouldn't use cement based renders and plasters. I'm currently planning my next project where I've taken on an old farmhouse that was renovated in 1980. The newest parts are mid C19 with solid masonry walls and in 1980 had a DPC injected and were cement rendered on the outside and plastered on the inner. The walls now show typical rising damp damage, where there's a tide mark at about 1m up the inside of the wall and both the plaster and render have blown. There are older walls that have got away with being cement rendered and plastered, some without any foundation at all, just sitting on an aggregate layer on earth, but the side of the house close to a water course is where most of the problems have occurred, so there are a number of factors to this.

Then you just need a plate bearing test at the surface rather than a bore hole. Don't know them but these have a an office in Southampton https://www.earthenvironmental.co.uk/plate-bearing-test/#contact An advantage of bore hole tests though is that it will also identify if there's any ground water passing under the site, within or close to the depth of the foundation. I'm on clay and the bore holes showed there was water passing through seams in the clay at about 600mm down. While it was below the dig level I still took the French drain I'd planned around the perimeter a little deeper to make sure I kept any water away from the sub-base. Are Advanced Foundation Technology on your list? Or are you specifically going with Tanner as you plan to use MBC?

You've not mentioned needing to do a Contamination Survey ie. a Condition on your planning that requires one prior to commencement. If you don't have such a condition, then a Phase I isn't required. Even a Phase II is more than you need as it will likely include gas collection, lab work, which will be looking for contamination within the dug boreholes. People needing Contamination Surveys do combine them with a Ground investigation to save money, ie. if the right rig is used for the boreholes it can also give you the bearing capacity at various depths, which is the info the SE needs for the foundation design. Normally the SE designing the foundation will have a specific requirement for what they need. It may just be to be onsite when the trench is dug to see where the organic matter stops, or if it's for, say, a ground bearing insulated raft, they may specify a number of bore holes in specific locations where they want the bearing capacity down to 4m or 6m. Sounds like your foundation design is remote (and your timber frame, but not sure what they want from the ground investigation) So you don't need another SE to do the Ground investigation, someone like Geosphere Environmental Ltd. could send a rig down and do the bore holes in a morning. If the Foundation people really need to know soil types they could also do the analysis and/or lab work. What specifically are the foundation and timber-frame people asking for?

Since Nibe try to limit their hardware to Approved Installers that have to Install in the Nibe prescribed way, I wouldn't be surprised if they do care about the primary heating circuit. Not sure about the S2125, but the F2040 has an external circ. pump and they do stipulate the Particle Filter that must be used. Edited to add: From the manual: This does sound like the primary heating circuit Particle Filter

Perhaps it's measuring a high pressure, or low flow rate and is suggesting your central heating circuit Particle Filter needs cleaning, not the ASHP Particle Filter.

The Manual suggests it's this: And on Page 39 does say: But from the image there's not an obvious way how that is done. Time to get a professional in?

Even without "rising damp", it's a condensation risk. It's a good improvement in U Value 1.5 -> 0.565, but moisture collects between the PIR and Stone wall. Temp on the left and humidity on the right. But, the condensation may not be an absolute risk. It shows from 1° and below it's a risk, but it doesn't consider how long the temp needs to be below 1° for it to stabilise. The 650mm wall has a 23hr decrement delay, so it's got to be down at that temp for over a day before the inner face could drop below dew point.

Page 18 https://www.nibe.eu/assets/documents/30143/431990-1.pdf

But the Thermal Mass is still there, so you're improving U Value (a little) with the same mass, which may/should be an improvement in comfort. The closer the internal face of the wall is to ambient the lower the temp gradient is across the room reducing convection currents/drafts and comfort should be improved. But, will it make enough difference to notice it? Has the solid wall got a good DPC? A PIR insulation on the inboard face may trap condensation/damp. Would a lime plaster be better if there's a lack of DPC?