JohnMo

We are the opposite, windows and doord shut all day, if the sun's out underfloor cooling on (powered by PV). Basically keep the heat out and don't let it in. Once the temps drop outside or the inside exceeds the outside due to the oversized glazing, then a couple windows at front are opened and rear door opened for a blow through. MVHR on all the time.

In simple turns your heat pump is sized to heat the house and also have time to sort the hot water out. So if your -2/3 day requires 4 kW, and your cylinder heating takes an hour, it's (4 x 24) / 23, so you need a heat pump that can give 4.2kW at -3. Saying the above, my heat demand is just over 3kW and I have a 6kW heat pump, but have designed my system so the heat pump doesn't short cycle, when heat demand is lowest.

Just undercut the door, Uber simple, no cost, next to zero noise transfer. Making something costly, complex for no good reason. Spend your money on good design so the noise transfer from the MVHR unit is minimised. Big ducts for low velocity, oversized MVHR unit for low running speed and decent plenum.

Don't include one for the sake of it. If it naturally fits do it. Lights make sure you reach from steps otherwise they will never get a bulb replaced. Or you need a scaffold to do it safely.

Sent

Why use any of the above? What do any of them bring to the party? No-one will look at a week after you move in or care

Wouldn't servicing be just the same as UFH?

Get the address registered, contact local council, full in form, pay the fee. It took me 4 days from start to finish. Post office gets informed by the council. You don't have to be finished the build to register the address, did mine prior to house even being there, so it was easy to get things delivered. Council tax people came looking a year later, said I was living in site caravan, pay council tax on that, everyone happy.

If the roof space is at 50 -55deg, it unlikely to have a humidity level of 60% at that temperature? Also if you are cooling the air the humidity level is likely to increase, the air in the pipe is likely to be at or close to 100% humidity.

A sketch may help

Simple stud wall a couple of sheets of plasterboard, taped joints and door, build the wall with 3x2 timber, top and bottom plate verticals at 600mm centres. A few hundred pounds. Take someone to court, year to two years, before your day in court (if your lucky), if you win, you may get costs plus a small nominal fee, if you loose, several thousand to yours and his solicitor. Get it sorted move on with your life. Get house signed off, do what you will with the door/wall. Irospective of the person drawing and detailing having missed something, the checker (you, if you were officially reviewing the documents, you state you reviewed) and council should have captured the missing details. I see three parties at fault, the drafting person, the reviewer and council, so who do you take to court? There was no conditional approval it was full approval and BC admitted they made a mistake.

It's not!

It's all rubbish politics. Job protection.... Anyone can export, with G98 or G99 etc. It's just the point of being paid or otherwise. Nothing changes with the system installed or the amounts exported - just the payment zero or something.

If don't mind spending a little more b&q do a recycled plastic bottle insulation - not itchy

Are you sure the ambient and humidity levels are correct?

Sell your left over PIR then go to B&Q or Wickes and buy the right stuff.

Hi - not sure what you mean by the question?

I also got the same statement as above.

I did full DIY on the solar install, except the battery. The PV is basic install with normal inverters. My second array I did a write up on this thread. All costs are included. The battery system will be a Givenergy "all in one" system with full off grid switching in case of power cut. That isn't that cheap at £8200. Without installer permissions you cannot install and commission fully.

Went past an electric wholesale yesterday they had loads of panels. I'm getting a battery, one week lead time and that's basically delivery time.

YES - but You don't need any plaster, as the plasterboard itself is airtight enough. But doesn't mean you will have an airtight house. Just the plasterboard will be airtight.

I wouldn't put pipes under any wall. Someone will end up putting a nail or screws through a pipe. Plan it correctly there should be no reason to. You may get away with if you everything yourself, but if you are getting others to build it for you, good chance of them messing up.

I'll beat @SteamyTea to it kWh

Max output on my gas boiler is 85 deg, so way under the 100. Not much higher than a valiant ASHP really

They end up on your head. Do it correctly with the correct number of fixings. Cold spots from screws - I'm sure it would risk loosing a watt or 2 on the coldest day, rather than killing someone when your ceiling plasterboard falls down.