crispy_wafer

Honestly, for this, my recommendation would be separating the CCTV from the LAN by using an NVR, which most will have built in POE. The NVR will create it's own subnet for the cameras. Dahua or Hikvision are decent manufacturers, you can do yourself but most of the good stuff is sold to installers only - which is a bit of a safety net to stop DIYers who don't necessarily understand the in's, out's and gotcha's. I'd honestly engage a local pro in this regard, you can run the cables and they'll advise, purchase and install for you. It would be money well spent if you are seriously thinking about CCTV.

Also, if you wanted to go non poe switch... then you can use a power injector --> Ubiquiti U-POE-AF Gigabit Power Over Ethernet PoE Injector (802.3af/48V) (broadbandbuyer.com) depending on how many powered ports you need it may be cheaper to do this, although it does add a small lump of plastic and plug somewhere.

Have a play with this, map out your floorplan and place the AP's to work out best location for coverage. UniFi Design Center (ui.com) I use Aruba POE switches with Ubiquiti AP's at work, so I'd say yes, but that buying decision is mine and its company money, buying privately and advising over the internet, I'd advise to double check the POE requirements for the AP against the switch you are going to purchase.

been discussed a few times in the past on here, I think the consensus was wf100 ? I don't know if one brand is better than another though

I'm a tight arse, and wont be paying money into sky or the others... Amazon and the good old TV license are my limits these days

Failover, + stuff like AV Amps, Games consoles, Amazon boxes, raspberry pi's... neater than using switches, but these can be a solution. I like wifi, but prefer cables...

Just going through this at the same time. I deal with a mix of HPE/Aruba and ubiquiti latelly at work, can confirm the Ubiquiti kit is pretty decent for the money spent. So, yeah will be using this myself. The inwall AP's would be the ones to get if you want less obtrusive, and you get a 4port switch built in if you can put these in a useable location. Use POE switches as the AP's will draw power from these, at work I have the controller installed on a server, but there are other ways I believe to do this. My preference but I'm using CAT6 instead of CAT6A, as it's a bit cheaper, buying branded partially used boxes from Ebay, try to get the non CCA stuff. Most runs are less than 10m with a couple of 15m. 48 port patch, and I'll start with a 24 port POE switch. A UPS and a 12u cabinet should do the trick. Don't forget to specify power outlets or a fused spur or 2 where the Cab will be located. I'm going what seems mad with CAT6, 4 in the lounge behind the TV (pretty much a fixed location due to a glazed wall on one side, and log burner on another wall), 2 in the plant room, two in the kitchen near the consumer unit, 2 in hallway, 4 in downstairs bedroom, 2 in diff corners. Upstairs 4 in each bedroom (different corners again), two in the loft just in case... + a couple located for Wireless AP's Will be starting the runs for the CCTV cam's at some point. But very similar, I'll throw a couple to each corner. And as the Mrs is leaving me to it, I'm Wiring for ceiling speakers in every room too, Lounge will from the AV amp, 2nd zone off this will feed kitchen diner and 2nd zone hdmi will feed tv in this area too if needed. Bedrooms, bathrooms, hallway and utility are all wired back to the same place as the network cab where I'm thinking of a bunch of small class d amps for sound. Control will be phones, or wall mounted tablets. Looking for some that have decent app support so individual sound and group sound can be achieved. I don't really want to get sucked into an expensive ecosystem if I can help it! I'm more worried about TV tbh, the old internet isn't too good here, we do manage with IPTV on a few devices. But would like to provision for either Sat or Aerial, I just cant decide...

315 is decent I think, I seen 159 for for Grohe frame, cistern and plate on manomano, so about 160 for the pan looks good for british pricing. driving me bonkers looking at sanitary ware. The Mrs isnt particularly bothered so I'm left constructing and looking at fixtures and fittings which makes for hard work as I cant really decide. I really want to get one pan on site so I can dry fit to set soil position, plus it makes me feel like I'm making a bit of progress and getting somewhere. I'm looking at floor mounted back to wall, rimless or not rimless, antibac coating or not, soft close seat or not. choices are seemingly endless. Think I've just about decided on white... and I want a smooth roundish surface with no indentations in the body. V&B, Grohe, Geberit, RAK, Ideal, R2. I'm clueless and confused 😕

Just dry fitting some pipework from my plant room to the ufh manifold under the stairs. The pipework rises from the 3 port on the cylinder and follows a route through the ceiling joists where it finally drops to the manifold. Most design docs call for air valves at the highest point so I will install one at the point above the ceiling after my 3 port valve before the pipe turns to go to the UFH manifold. I've read that the auto valves sometimes leak when they get filled with crud, or when they get old, so with this in mind I think I'd rather install a manual one. I'll also be installing an access hatch too into the ceiling space above the plant room for future access... Unless there is a better way? Pipework to the manifold will be 22mm can anyone recommend a half decent valve and do I need one on the feed and return, or is it just the feed.

For now, unlimited data sim is probably the best shout!

I don't know to be honest, if it was pretty rough to start with, could more have been done do you think or not? Will that bit of wall be concealed away behind cupboard / wash machine for new stuff, although 3mm still 9.1.3 Internal walls and ceilings - NHBC Standards 2023 NHBC Standards 2023 (nhbc-standards.co.uk)

I've seen a few snippet's from your project pictures, looks ideal habitat for wildcats, do you ever catch a glimpse?

Reckon I've got it! Again more by luck than judgement, but I did change the order of the bends pulled, pulled the bend by the wall first. It's all loose fittings at the minute as I'm trying to do all the prep work ready to be fixed and pressed once that cupboard is skimmed, painted and floor down and cylinder in.

So I've been playing with the pipe bender, and probably more by luck than judgement managed to bend 2 22m pipes into a U shape so they go round the back of my cylinder. The pipe work on one side is off from the wall by a small distance as I've got aircon pipework coming down. I need to pull 2 45's to now return the pipework to the wall. I've had 2 goes and measured managed to cock up both times on transferring what I think the offset is to the pipe bender. Anyone got any tips to help please. I know life is too short and I guess I could use fittings, but that'd be no fun and I wont learn anything, so pics below showing what I'm trying to do. I don't like to call on members directly, but I'm going to try and get the genie out of the lamp @Nickfromwales

replace it, I'm pretty sure the boss of the glazing company wouldn't have it on their house so why should a customer have it on theirs! same wall same tint - simples.

Yeah you often get chains in a double pack on the fleabay. A quick slip with the file (2/3 strokes) on each link takes a few minutes whilst you finish a cup of tea (most important) and plan the attack on the offending material before the job, easy if you have a vice to hold the bar - defo worth the effort and if I can do it...

Oregon always for me, count the links, use a black marker pen to mark where you started. Then get a correct sized file and gauge.

I’m ply lining a wall in my plant room cupboard, it will be covered with pink pb and skimmed. The ply wall runs perpendicular to a block wall, Should I be cutting the ply flush to the block wall or should I leave a small gap for expansion? ta marek

Just a quick one, bought one of these last week, it's an absolute game changer for me, accurately trimming down timber and sheet material accurately, managed to snag one from machine mart online with 2 rails and a bag relatively cheaply (425) ex display I assume. I'm usually a bit do I or don't I with tools, trying to weigh up whether I'll get my pennies worth, or should I try and make do with what I already have. It was bit of an impulse purchase but certainly no regrets after a weekends worth of use.

Can you solweld to the orange stuff?, I've never tried thought it was a no go so I replaced all my stubs with black pipe, or is that just an internet myth?

@Nickfromwales trying to piece this together. So would that be one of these out of the boss a short piece of pipe to connect one of these then the wash m/c and shower into each branch?, and then a bung in the top.

Osma Soil Manifold 110mm Grey, 4S595G - Plumbing For Less

I could be way off kilter here, but would something like below be of any use

Same but my thinking - is depending on if the pipe is coming downwards then an isolator means less water to drain if you ever need to break the pipe later on

I’m thinking the same, line the pipe work up where you need it, clip it neatly etc then isolators if needed and tap connectors.