crispy_wafer

Reckon if I moved into a house with either design, I could live with them quite happily!

Any gaps big enough to fit a nozzle into got the foam treatment... Then painted a load of airtight paint on as a primer, then taped over the lot. Was an easy job, but it gave me an excuse to get away from real work!

@jayc89 Don't forget about extraction, or a recirc jobbie and position if you need it.

Now that's why I advocate looking at what others have done! I love what you've done with the cooker position. You see I have windows on two walls too and pretty much discounted positioning the cooker anywhere but on a flat wall. You placed in a corner and I think that works quite well! Thanks @joe90 for posting that! I'm going to send this to the boss and send her brain into a tailspin!

Gotta hide all them biscuits for the lazy housebuilders anonymous thread somewhere 🤣

All zones are Preset according to design. Night time turns the whole system fan down if you want it to! If you boil a pan/have a shower and raise humidity levels the system boosts to bring levels back into range. Absolutely no need to change each vent on the fly. Once it's in, set, monitor, tweak, then forget about it.

We all see things differently and we all have our own ideas, which is great. Here's the layout we have settled on as reference. We didn't particularly want any wall cupboards, so have managed to get the space req'd with floor cupboards, and with two windows, cooker position was pretty much decided for us. Boring but simple, good amount of floor space, which we like. We went through our existing kitchen, listed out all the existing cupboards and just made sure there was a duplicate in the new...

@Mattg4321 Use the planner on diy kitchens Online Kitchen planner | Free design software | DIY Kitchens (diy-kitchens.com)

All my studs are set at 400 centres, right inbetween sizes, So I guess I could flip the boards horizontally then nog horizontally at every 300 that could work. My stud wall will end up looking like a chess board though!

Has anyone seen @Pocster, probably got trapped in one of them kitchen cabinets! I think, as original plan, I'll set them on a noggin then use an male/female 1/2" extension iron to the correct depth.

Nah, I don't think it would be a problem. I wonder if DIY do an internal corner unit in the style you like with a radiused door, then you could do the same on the island and put a radius on the island worktop. It would smooth out the lines, Wonder how that'd look? We went to DIY at the weekend, went in with one idea - probably the most expensive inframe shaker, came out with another Cento with the slate finish and some concrete finish ones aswell(their cheapest), and maybe a dektron worktop with a coloured grain through it... And if fashions change, so what, we'll deal with it when the time comes 🤣!

Maybe an issue with fridge/freezer being almost behind the person cooking? Where's the kettle and toaster in relation to the fridge? Will it become a pain in the arse walking round and cracking your hips on the edges... I'm no designer and having these issues, asking myself these questions as we are also finalising designs...

Will do, I tend to follow it, but that thread moves very quickly at times I may have missed the bit about depth... Sorry my poor explanation previously. I'll be using brass wall plate elbows with the hep 1/2 - 15mm plug on it.

This is the fella I've been watching on youtube... He uses couplings to set the depth, guess this is ok to do?

Thanks, I've absolutely no idea on final wall finish 🤣, I'll get the Mrs to do some browsing, then get the tile thickness of the sort of things she likes. Then I guess from there on in, I can just filter for 9mm tiles or whatever and tell her to pick something at that depth. Would you set tile adhesives at different depth's depending on tile, or is it just a standard thickness? We are not doing anything too special here. The known's at this point 20mm tile backer So I need to know: Tile Depth Tile Adhesive Depth I've ran HEP to the outlets because it was easy to thread through the studs, and assumed I was going to use a 1/2" to 1/2" wall plate elbow with a HEP 1/2" connector. Now thinking about it the angled wall plate wont project far enough through the backer board + finish. And I don't know at this point how long the thread is on the wall outlet and rainfall head as I'm waiting for them to turn up. What do the pro's do? I don't mind if I have to start again if I have to, it's only a bit of time, and all part of the experience!

Yes, that's right I remember you posting the link now! 🤣

Well done you. Must say I'm super impressed with how you've made your compact plant room work. I've just zoomed in on your cylinder and see it's just like the one I've got, but with a different sticker on it, right down to the buffer underneath.

Morning all, I'm Finalising the first fix plumbing in one of the bathrooms and I'm trying to work out how to set the depth of the wall plate elbows for shower outlets. Does it even matter, is it a non issue to be concerned about? Can I just thread in a 1/2 inch thread extension to bring closer to the tiled surface, if I need to? Also, I have PTFE tape, Fernox Hawk white, water hawk and rectorseal tru-blu at my disposal, I've only really used PTFE tape in previous one off tasks. This thread sealant stuff, I guess must work or they wouldn't sell it, do I just paint a glob of it onto the threads and tighten? Any special methods of use worth knowing?

screw short side of the bracket to the wall 1st then push cabinet back to wall screw long side of bracket into side of cabinet using an angled driver,

Love that, well done.

Spot on! I'm just roughing pipework in at the moment, and ready to put some noggins in for the wall plates elbows. I may toddle off to a bathroom showroom aswell and measure what their outlets are set at, I'm also thinking that housebuilders dont always get to see end customers so must have a rule of thumb regarding heights too. How did you work out depth for the wall plate elbows for the outlets taking into consideration tiles, adhesive, backer board? I think that now I'm onto using 20mm backer rather than PB, I've got to move my control box forwards a touch, trivial but another task on the list.

Height, about 1.8 ish Thinking of mounting the arm at about 2-2.1m, Haven't got it yet, but I guess I ought to see how much of a curve it has before the shower head. The handset will be attached to a riser. I wondered if there was a general rule of thumb? If I mount at the same height as the main valve control box then it shouldn't look too out of place! The V box is on another wall out of the main shower area.

Hi All I'm running in some first fix pipework for the shower, What would be a good height to mount, Wall mounted Shower handset outlet, before it attaches to a hose, Similar --> & Wall mounted rainfall connection arm similar --> Ta Marek

There's your diagram for the UH4, substitute the word actuator for valve on zones 1 and 2 & Jobs a Goodun. Probably need someone who's done this before to confirm though!

A thin blade with loads of teeth!