crispy_wafer

@nod have you ever used any low profile matting (bal, larsen, kerrakoll), long story short I think I might have cocked up with the threshold height on my front door so I think every mm I can save will count, either that or admit to the missus I've made a mistake and live in the doghouse until I can replace the front doorset...

haha, i wish, I'm battling with a shower tray waste that came with a shower tray. These things are I think are designed just to cause lots of head scratching and multiple days worth of googling to identify the right bits just to connect a few bits together.

This sort or widget Tap Extension - 1/2" M x 1/2" F - 10222 Can be got in various lengths

Appreciate your words @Gus Potter, I'm slightly embarrassed to comment as I don't know much about this kind of thing (staircase fabrication), naively I'd get a design on paper, double check dimensions, colour etc then pay me money and fingers crossed it'll turn up ready to fit... the company I have been chatting with deal with a joinery firm to deliver whatever timber treads I want to meet spec and are regs compliant (<100mm gap), They'd also fabricate the steel balustrade too. Kind of assumed (naively) that the welds and steel and powdercoating would turn up and be good for a domestic setting? As I'd not designed this in from building design, I already have a floor buildup of 7mm screed on top of 150mm pir, above block and beam floor. UFH pipes are in the floor, but only 4 right down the middle, so a footplate could be made wide enough to straddle and if needed mechanical fixings can be made without any bother. Top of the stairs is a 1m wide double 225*47 trimmer What sort of other questions ought I be asking?

Ooh, now them I like... Love the idea that they'll do bespoke sizes too.

That’s interesting and funny you say that as I purchased some big plasterboard sized abacus elements sheets from rubber duck and they were a little coarser in surface finish.

it cant hurt, the only inconvenience is time to do. You are one step ahead of me... My jackoboard is up on the wall, but I forgot to order in the membrane paint in time, so that job is having an enforced pause for the weekend. @Thorfun I remember you used jacko, did you tape over the washers and screws outside of the wet zones with scrim tape?

google tells me that scrim is used to bridge cracks and holes, so I'd have thought not.

same, but for basins and baths, although likely to be concealed by furniture or under the bath I just used these to keep pipework orderly, then a hep to 1/2 transition into and 1/2 to 15mm press fit (as I've got a tool for this) transition out for the bath, or to a 1/2" grohe (or similar) iso valve for the basin. Probably more complicated than it needed to be, but just looks right to my eyes.

transitioning from hep to copper and bringing pipework out of the wall neatly at a guess. Well it was when I was playing at plumbing!

Nice! I think we'll be favouring steel rather than glass on the balustrade, flat plate or bar with timber capping, something like below. I've not been in contact with the fabricator this week. Just sleeping on the decisions for a week! or

used pinks last week for some metal framing stuff that my local BM's didnt have. Got a phone call 30 minutes after online order to confirm delivery date. Delivery driver rang when he was on the way. Delivery truck had one of those 3 wheel fork lifts too. All in all, one of the better companies I've used.

I have this attic truss, that while acclimatising and drying out has bowed somewhat on the bottom joist, wouldn’t be a problem, but…. It’s one that I will need to board over forming my stairwell. My stud wall was plumb to the top of the joist, but the bottom 1/3 of it now bends out by about 5mm from the wolf plate towards the newel post. The truss is doubled up, so I’d thought about taking the angle grinder with sanding disk to remove the offending timber. Or I could Pack out all the studs to make good, which will be a ball ache and least favourable route. Or would Double boarding, screwing the first and then dot and dabbing the 2nd. I don’t know, how would this be dealt with in real life? Thx Marek

That is a great quote and stands out for me! insulate the bollocks out of it, make it as airtight as you can, have a ventilation/heat recovery strategy, also with big glazing think about how to keep out solar energy in the height of summer, and will you want cooling too. Don't let the unknowns put you off, research, and research some more, ask questions, have fun, embrace it and enjoy the ride!

That's nice, I've seen something similar from dolle - i think! but, no, I'm looling at something like below, big steel with plates and treads. Been speaking to local fabrication shop who have done a few, costs come in a smidge lower than the cut string chunky oak staircase I was eyeballing, so now I'm torn between slightly traditional or modern. I dont care for led strips in the treads though, just not my thing!

My searches aren't yielding too many results, so this is a general question to see if we have any build hubbers that have had a central spine, or steel spine staircase fabricated for their projects. It's something I'm giving consideration too, nice thick chunky timber treads with metal balustrading. So, what ya got, show us some pictures!

Possibly, The steel is on the warm side of the cavity insulation and if the screws are an issue then I think the steel flanges top and bottom are probably more of an issue... I think I can live with it.

Done! Cut out some of the PIR and Knocked in timbers, and tekscrewed though the steel. Some more of mine and missus rough arse parge on show too!

Haha, you want to see the mess I’ve made with the parge coat.

I have this steel above a window, what should I do to prepare for plasterboard, plasterboard will be dot/dabbed on this wall. Should I set timbers into the web and screw cement board flush to the block?

Agreed, probably one of the best couple of hundred pounds extra spent on my project.

A quick win for you to save a bit of time. Have a mooch on your local district planning authority website, have a look at submitted plans in your vicinity. Identify which architects or technicians successfully undertake submissions in your area, give them a call.

A long list of other jobs to complete from the missus!

good question, as there's loads of options out there and for the uninitiated it's a bit of a minefield.

QQ, How did you deal with the insulation through the wall? I see they have plastic interface thingies for tidying the hole up, in two minds as to whether they are worth it though.