crispy_wafer

torx wafer screws for fibre cement cladding - Google Search anything of any use on there? haha - beaten to it

You've got a really difficult job to appraise without eyeballing it. Get a quote for the fitter to sort, then decide if it's worth the fretting. With my rental, though tbh I'm completely hands off in terms of management, my usual response is 'How much!!!' followed by another 10 minutes later of 'proceed'. Keeps the tax bill down is the only saving grace...

Hired a nifty 120 t'other weekend to take down some Ash trees adjacent to a road, Cost from my local farm shop/hire place £120 for a single day (Saturday).

+1 on the rewatec solido smart, as once the initial capital is dealt with has lower running costs, which was more important to me. But there's loads of different ones to suit. Shallow dig/deep dig, submarine shaped, conical shaped. Installers probably have their goto brands.

I was using the knauf stuff in ceilings but ran out with a few sections left. I purchased some Ursa APR to finish off. It's a lot more rigid, but it's also not the nicest stuff to handle. RWA45 is also quite rigid.

yep you are right, i guess I should have mentioned at DPC in my post

Speak to your building inspector, I was under the impression they are not always required.

I'd ask for 3.ph then list out heat pump, air con, 3 ovens, hob and car chargers... Then get octopus or your choice of electricity supplier to give you a 3ph meter. You can still choose to use a single phase if that's how it pans out.

I've been jumping between d&d or wet plaster throughout the build journey, the block work in the loft spaces and areas that will be sealed off once boarded have had a good 2 coats of soudatight lq, so they are definitely better than bare blockwork. I also found the 32mm drain from the mvhr system that I hadn't taped up, it does have a waterless trap on it, but I suspect it wouldn't put up much of a fight during the permeability test, so dealing with that and the 80mm hole I missed will go quite a way to improving the result.

I've got a cavity wall running across my build, and one of these lintels spanning a doorway. I'd completely ignored this but since I've had a look online it appears these are open at both ends into the cavity, albeit with polystyrene wedged into it. Would it be ok to membrane over and tape up to seal it up do you think?

Theres a post here by @ProDave that gave me something to work with. As far as measuring pressures and voltage are concerned it's above my head at this point until I do some studying.

Might be able to get a brass fitting that would reinforce the hose under a clip

Behold the draft finder mk 1

Wider diameter hose with a jubilee clip over the pump outlet, then a step down adapter from that into your irrigation system. Surely got to be something on Amazon or Ali that’ that’ll fit

Thanks @RobLe you've gone above and beyond with the links. I've picked up a fan from machinemart this aft, and ordered another couple of tubs of soudatight. I'm just constructing something to block up a window opening, when I've done that, I'll depressurise and wage war on sealing what I can. The main problem was obviously the fist sized hole behind a steel into the cavity that I'd just overlooked. I've filled that now, just needs trimming back painting and taping over. I'm not sure how much of a culprit the mvhr system is, next time I'll disconnect from the wall outlet and seal at that point, taking the chassis and any internal leakage points out of the equation entirely. The restraint straps will get a good globbing all over with soudatight and also the point at which they disappear under airtight tape. The roof joints to the walls have/had all been taped, these will also get a good globbing over with airtight paint, paying particular attention to where the tape bridges mortar joints in the blocks. one way or another I'll get this nut cracked.

Yes, that’s exactly how I’m looking at it, I’m going to fix the obvious then fetch an industrial drum fan from screwies or machine mart and set to.

Just had a prelim air test completed, as I’m just finishing up, or so I thought first fix ready for plasterboard. Std brick and block build. And the result wasn’t great tbh so I wont publish it. Filled the house full of smoke, reversed the fan to try and ID the areas for attention… Windows, all taped up on perimeters, but the units themselves leak air in the corners, most if not all suffer from this, and my big gable window which comprises of 8 window units leaking along frame joints where attached to next frame - not happy at all with this. Restraint straps, air making its way down back of restraint strap between blocks and strap. Handful of small holes, and the odd crack in mortar that I’d missed. Big fist sized hole into the cavity I’d missed behind a steel into the cavity - Doh, poor attention to detail! And the mvhr unit, I taped off before the manifolds, maybe I needed to tape off at the building inlet and exhaust, as smoke billowed out the vents, are the units sealed up by design or are they quite leaky? To be fair the company I used (found them on the internet) were spot on, walked me around and helped identify the areas for attention. My local chap wasn’t interested in doing a test at this stage… £250 quid well spent, even if result was poor. Now I’ve seen it done, I need to build a rig to replicate. Now I’m going to have a cup of tea, and think about the challenges that lay ahead.

how close are the storm drains to your plot, if they are like less than a meter, id be tempted to dig an 18" trench right up to the storm drain, fill it with stone and your outlet pipe, either 4" soil pipe or 4" leaky land drain pipe. However that said, I'm down the road from you in lincoln, and have my pumped mdpe pipe running straight into a fieldside drain, all the neighbours are doing similar... BCO just said crack on, dont think he was interested tbh, more focus on the pipework around the build and distance to the wtp

Almost done... What's the preferred method of securing the top hat? Spring clips or screws? I've got both to hand

When I did/redid what the builder did on mine…. I sat mine on a concrete mix so it held level, then surrounded the chamber in pea gravel, pipes were supported on, and all around and above with pea, then covered with crusher run concrete, or pea then excavated material depending on where the pipe was (garden, or patio).

Joist movement pulling against the nail, the hanger wasn't tight on the joist maybe a mm or 2 on either side at the bottom, so any really slight movement would be against the nail, I went with foaming wood glue and the screws, although most of the glue ended up on me and the floor...

Can only speak for my own experience, but Joist hangers were a source of squeak on my project. I discarded the twist nails and used the appropriate simpson screws to resolve. Found the squeak by stepping on and off, but could reproduce by applying force in different directions from below onto the joists, which showed the smallest amount of movement in the hanger.

steel frame? then clad it, if you want a timber look!

I'd prime the boards first, you'd lose nothing by doing so. Something suitable and not water soluble. and for the jackoboards