crispy_wafer

oh, ok, that'd make life a bit easier. Ta.

Hi All, My plan is to install pre hung doors after plaster and mist coat. I'm just starting to put the odd sheet or two of plasterboard on walls. Would putting in temporary door linings be a reasonable idea? It's a small'ish cost (£20 ea or so from the BM) that I can deal with (11 doorways) to help with plasterboarding and then for the skim coat round doorways?

If you already have the PIR on site, then as you say, it’s the condensation risk that’s the key. However…. If you come to sell the PIR you may turn a good profit on FB marketplace, I did when I over ordered and sold off a couple of sheets individually, Joe Public don’t use merchants and are very used to wickes/B&Q pricing I found.

I’m another that wouldn’t put batteries inside a dwelling, likewise an electric car in a garage attached to a dwelling. The fear of batteries combusting have got to me I’m afraid. For what it’s worth, my plant room is a cupboard… 1.2m * 1.5m. Just houses a cylinder, plumbing distribution manifolds and controllers for poo tank, Ashp and solar on a wall, it’s a compromise on size, but works. MVHR is in the loft as that was the best location logistically for routing the pipe work to where it needed to be, with the supply and extract at each corner of a gable. UFH manifolds are under stairs in a pretty central location.

I don’t have the words to ease the wallet pain, however you’ve now got a really good excuse for the house not finished thread…. Someone else will need to bring the biscuits and cakes for now though.

if your soil pipes run perpendicular to the joists work out the maximum length of soil pipe into your equation as you’ll need to account for fall.

Both, probably! your router will only have a small number of switchports. To put it as simply as possible, at one end of the cat6 you’ll have your endpoints (tv, Xbox, etc etc) at the other end in your comms cabinet you’d commonly have a patch panel, from this panel you’ll use patch leads into a multiport switch, you’d connect the switch to your 4g/5g router. It’s possible to do without the patch panel and crimp rj45 plugs and connect these straight to the switch, but it’s not something that I’d do…

Was of the understanding the flexi hoses are for vibration damping, and the softening transmission of the fan noise through the rigid copper. I could be completely wrong though. 🤔

origin do some Ally ones. Must admit I do like the look of metal frame doors without timber door casings and architraves.

always thought screws were the way, maybe a screw with course threads...

would it be some kind of flow regulator?

@Dave Jones is your dongle one of these --> Meet the Octopus Home Mini | Octopus Energy

I've got the SO4CG, it's a reasonable bit of kit for the money. Aftersales/service sorted me out a warranty replacement when I dropped it and it went out of whack...

torx wafer screws for fibre cement cladding - Google Search anything of any use on there? haha - beaten to it

You've got a really difficult job to appraise without eyeballing it. Get a quote for the fitter to sort, then decide if it's worth the fretting. With my rental, though tbh I'm completely hands off in terms of management, my usual response is 'How much!!!' followed by another 10 minutes later of 'proceed'. Keeps the tax bill down is the only saving grace...

Hired a nifty 120 t'other weekend to take down some Ash trees adjacent to a road, Cost from my local farm shop/hire place £120 for a single day (Saturday).

+1 on the rewatec solido smart, as once the initial capital is dealt with has lower running costs, which was more important to me. But there's loads of different ones to suit. Shallow dig/deep dig, submarine shaped, conical shaped. Installers probably have their goto brands.

I was using the knauf stuff in ceilings but ran out with a few sections left. I purchased some Ursa APR to finish off. It's a lot more rigid, but it's also not the nicest stuff to handle. RWA45 is also quite rigid.

yep you are right, i guess I should have mentioned at DPC in my post

Speak to your building inspector, I was under the impression they are not always required.

I'd ask for 3.ph then list out heat pump, air con, 3 ovens, hob and car chargers... Then get octopus or your choice of electricity supplier to give you a 3ph meter. You can still choose to use a single phase if that's how it pans out.

I've been jumping between d&d or wet plaster throughout the build journey, the block work in the loft spaces and areas that will be sealed off once boarded have had a good 2 coats of soudatight lq, so they are definitely better than bare blockwork. I also found the 32mm drain from the mvhr system that I hadn't taped up, it does have a waterless trap on it, but I suspect it wouldn't put up much of a fight during the permeability test, so dealing with that and the 80mm hole I missed will go quite a way to improving the result.

I've got a cavity wall running across my build, and one of these lintels spanning a doorway. I'd completely ignored this but since I've had a look online it appears these are open at both ends into the cavity, albeit with polystyrene wedged into it. Would it be ok to membrane over and tape up to seal it up do you think?

Theres a post here by @ProDave that gave me something to work with. As far as measuring pressures and voltage are concerned it's above my head at this point until I do some studying.

Might be able to get a brass fitting that would reinforce the hose under a clip