crispy_wafer

Currently I have my 2nd hand ebay special 6kw Grant unit sat ready to go. has 3/4" outs on it. So I've got 22mm from there, but I can go 3/4 to 28mm easily enough and repipe. Pipe length 4m from h.p to the 3 port diverter at the cylinder then 12m to the manifold, no buffer, but the cylinder has one if we have volume issues... I've have a press tool, UFH capacity is in the region of 90-95 litres. All the gear and no idea, me! Just need to finesse my plans a little before I dive in! The grant hp has an internal pump, the UFH manifold is a Wunda job, so came with mixer and separate pump, but from reading the latest threads these may want doing away with, the manifold doesn't have any actuators? Grant HP internal pump flow rates below.

What Origin windows are you having? If they are same model/type as mine then I'll come back and tell you a tale of what I've found, regarding air permeability and the frames/units... Also check the handles on the windows and the operation, mine are shite, they are sloppy and wibbly wobbly. Got them changed once but replacements are the same. Thankfully there are aftermarket handles that can be purchased at a reasonable price so when we are finished I'll swap them myself

Thx, the outs on the current heat pump are 3/4" on to 22mm primaries, if i go up to 28mm then would that be an issue? I’m thinking ahead a little, maybe in a few years if I have to swap out the h.p the replacement might need a bigger bore pipes. The pipe work routing to the ufh manifold is going to be up in the ceiling so won’t be accessible without disruption in the future.

I’ve just had a quote in from edf, more for info than anything else as I’ve got all the bits and gear on-site to do my own install. The quote wasn’t bad, less that what I was getting when i first started the journey. The heat pump and cylinder they are quoting for cost more than the quote total, it’s daikin kit, but is oversized by about 30% according to my own heatloss calcs. The only things that grinds my gears a bit are when they try to charge daft money for sitting at a desk filling in a program to calculate, or come out and do a survey… £1500 - what t f. Seriously I wouldn’t mind at a 3rd of that because they have to make a living and turn a profit but this is where the market sits at the moment. Still it was a lot better that these so called pop up enterprises that are ‘renewables experts’ so it going in the right direction i think

I've got about 12m to cover between my plant cupboard and my UFH manifold, so from knee height up to ceiling along the joists then down to knee height, a couple or 3 90 in the route. UFH was designed to run in the region of 16 l/pm across all the legs, I was going to run this from the built in pump on the heat pump which should do about 20 L/min at 6m, but to be honest I really haven't got a clue about hydraulics. So is it ok to run 22mm to the ufh manifold? Thx M

Would an Alternative be, J profile fixed to the frame, and dabs to blockwork to clear the fixings. Currently looking at methods myself as I don't have rigid closers, the cavity is covered and sealed with 200mm window tape and soudal paint. Side note, I'd have a go at sealing up and taping them closers as best you can.

Maybe a bit lighter than this (TBS Farmhouse antique)? Difficult to tell as everything looks quite bright in the photo!

I got a stihl, previously had a Kawasaki, but that was nicked when my shed was raided years ago. Don’t think Kawasaki are in the game any more, but the stihl has been faultless for me. As far as 2 stroke gadgets I’ve had Kawasaki, Tanaka, echo, husqvarna, and stihl all been faultless and easy to start. Before this when I was starting out as a grown up with no money I had mcculloch, and Ryobi both were absolute pigs, never again.

I do use the multi for tidying up the edges, hadnt thought about trying a whole cut out with one though, the blocks are only fibolite blocks, not too hard, but not the softest either, any specific type of blade? Or just go at it with an old metal or wood bit (I do keep a pile of old ones for the crappy jobs)

Morning all, I need to bash my blocks about 10mm or so I can install backboxes, I've done a handful, chain drilling and then using a wide chisel and a brick hammer to clean up with some success. But, my wrists are aching, I'm getting bored, and it's taking a long time to do... What's the best type of chisel for my SDS to speed up this task. I'm happy chain drilling to depth, as I can get my son to do that before I follow him round with the SDS. Thanks Marek

Right... So in your case that's the givenergy AIO 6, we dont have too many powercuts , it's more of a case of having a feature in place that would keep the necessary bits running for an hour or two, or four! without too much faff.

Probably a really noddy type question, but anyway, what should you need to look out for for say a UPS type install. E.g a pretty Seamless switchover when there's a power outage. Or do they all do it, or is it something that needs specifying up front? TIA Marek

I think, it's the inverter that's the key for 3 Ph. certainly according to givenergy... 3-phase battery storage | 3-phase inverters & batteries | GivEnergy

That's right, Allows a choice of inverter as many protocols are supported. You can either go victron if you want to tinker lots, or solis if you want a simpler functionality. Anyway, I'm lightyears away yet! Just filling my black book with snippets of info in advance.

Ive been looking at these Fogstar Energy 15.5kWh 48V Battery l Fogstar UK They do some DIY kits too. Maybe something to investigate for when I finish my build...

Thanks, Found it

I usually buy paddock seed mix for the grazing in the fields from boston seeds, pretty sure they'll have an amenity mix that would suit.

Decided to use a dual control thermosphere dc-w-01 device, to minimise the clutter, and simplify the install.

English regs, Can I plan for a socket closer than 350mm to an internal corner of a utility room. I read something that mentioned uninhabited rooms and a utility being an uninhabited room, but that was off some site out there in the wild. Thanks Marek

👍 yep, its the metal partitions and ceilings (res bar) and the fine thread screws giving me the issues. Probably down to me (user error) but i'll persist.

Agreed, None of my stud walls are structural, most of my timber work is cupboards, metal frame mostly for partitions. brings it’s own problems though, I’m finding the fine thread plasterboard screws don’t like to penetrate the plasterboard and are leaving heads slightly proud of the board, then just spin.

I found, as a novice, that the using screws gave more control over final position of a stud, nail gun in my hands tended to knock the studs away from where I wanted them. In the end I used a mixture of both, but much preferred to use screws.

The main guts of mine is in a tub just under the inspection chamber lid. I was meaning pulling out the bubble gubbins if needs be, this lays on the floor of the tank My unit's a Rewatec ASP thing.

Agree, wouldn’t go near a poo tank with mechanicals in it. Only advice I can give if you are going down that route, would be get it installed by a competent persons, then signed off by klargester and then take out a maintenance contract so someone else has to deal with issues should they happen. With an airpump system, quite honestly I wouldn’t be worried about putting gloves on and pulling out the pump and bits.

4g/5g then Starlink, alternatively you may have an ‘air fibre’ provider in the area, worth checking.