crispy_wafer

👏👏 awesome stuff, well done.

Quick question bathroom has no wall coverings and studs are bare, should I install the shower tray at this point or install the tile backer boards to floor then drop/slide in the shower tray?

Sure, Andrew’s and Arnold or A&A, their tariffs aren’t necessarily for everyone but as we don’t use the landline much apart from old family members who would ring us once in a blue moon the cheap no frills tariff works for us. Other providers offer more features, just depends on what requirements you have. For a phone I picked up a yealink device from eBay.

Same experience here with Starlink, son spends his spare time playing Fortnite and Fifa, no problems with 'lagging' as he so eloquently puts it. Latency is often between 25-40ms here in Lincs. TBH I like it, I've already moved my legacy landline No. to a voip provider. Openreach can come and get their crappy copper wire and FRO.

I'm going to be using either vitcas cs construction boards, or skamotec 225 boards bonded and mechanically fixed to the wall before applying the necessary adhesive before tiling round my inset. Cant really say much more because I'm not at that point, but that was the plan I had in my head.

If you are unsure go to vitcas and see any products that might suit.

Cant answer your question, but thanks for the picture, I was looking at doing something similar with trunking, this helps massively with visualisation. 👍

I laid out a length onto the concrete floor, then went up and down the length with a blowtorch, just so the sheen on the tape changed, then picked it up using the backing tape and then wacked it onto whatever I was sticking (dpm to dpm, or wall to dpm) then pressed it into place and used an old wallpaper roller to flatten it out, leave the backing tape on until you want to stick to it.

I used plastic shims from screwfix to straighten a slightly out stud very recently, horseshoe shaped come in various thicknesses (1/3/5/10mm). Painted contact adhesive onto the stud and just stuck the shims in place. Previously I've cut studs on the bowed in side halfway down, give it a shove to straighten and open the cut then place a timber wedge into the cut. A few bags of packers are useful to have around, especially for getting ceiling battening level.

This is possible with our plan, especially in some rooms where we have a mix of brighter lighting and softwer lighting, so what you are saying is, it would be either a double switch with 2 * t+e cables or a double switch with a single 3 core+e cable out to the fittings?

top advice, currently ours is in an out building but that has to be demolished on first occupation so, yes, this is something we are going to have to get aligned to.

Slight hijack, I've bought Various Aico mains wired kit for the kitchen (heat), upper hallway, down hallway (smoke) and lounge(multi). Think I would like something in my utility room with plant room attached, tumble drier/washing machine, solar gadgetry... Any recommendations please?

As my nice spark is busy on other commitments he's given me permission to run up cables for switches and lights. I've done most of the easy 'loop at' switches now and now my attention is turning to running cable up to the pendant or downlight. I asked him what cable I should use he say t+e is fine. but I read this where @TonyT mentions running 3 core + e to lights? What's a good reason for this? What would I be loosing by just using t+e? ta.

success, looks like it can. Just need a switch or two.

I think I could quite easily live with having a setup like that, let the unit decide what it wants to do most the time, but have a couple of switches that boost for a period of time. Just picking through the commissioning guide now to see if I can set a timer on the volt free.

Yes, that's a downside that Mrs and I discussed, especially when its a night time visit!

I've got a Vent Axia kinetic s MVHR, I've added the volt volt free input option and the switched live 2/3 input option without really knowing what do and which would best suit my needs. Basically approached it with a sledgehammer to crack a peanut... I'm at the point of running the final wiring in the build before PB so it's crucial I think that I get wires to where I need them (if I need them that is)... If you don't mind helping a dummy and guiding me in the right direction please? Starting with the MVHR unit, it's got a built in Humidity sensor and will do it's fan control thing as and when. But there may be occasions when I need to increase extraction manually. What do I need to do this? Can I connect to the lights in the bathroom/s to boost on light on? For those that have been down this road, would love to hear real use feedback. I guess I want to cover my bases now, I guess I can always disconnect at the MVHR unit if not needed at a later date.

Yes, I guess. If the horizontal is that much cheaper and if you've got room for manoeuvre then I guess a 90 to change the angle and then a straight bit of pipe down might work??

how about something like this from schluter? Schluter KERDI LINE V/VS/VOS Linear Drains - Tiling Supplies Direct

Over here we get 15p per kWh back to grid, on Octopus Tracker I'm paying generally 16-18p per kWh consumed. Certainly for me right now it's better to pocket the eddi cost and install fee.

indeed, I bought a pack of 10 of them, and to be honest, if you can buy a sheet of EPDM, cut it into sections and use a drill bit to puncture a hole in it you'll be 99% of the way there.

now that's exactly what I'm thinking of, whether I can execute it aswell remains to be seen. But thats just perfect for me. How did you finish the ceiling? Cut a rectangle out of the board, or fingers for all the pipes?

I've been pottering about with hep over the last couple of evenings, getting the Hep down from the 1st floor void into the plant cupboard in and orderly and tidy fashion is proving a challenge, I know its only a plant cupboard, but it will look crap and bug me forever. To resolve I can think of two options 1) cut the hep up in the void and install 90's on each and run copper tails down the wall to the manifold, or 2) install the manifold in the floor void and just run supply and drain tails down the wall. Have an access hatch in the ceiling so I can poke my shoulders, head and arms in there should I need to. What do you think?

MLCP is a good compromise, holds it's shape and doesn't rely so much on the outer layer to form the connection. I think if I was to go again then I'd go MLCP rather than HEP tbh. Keeping hep scratch free over the duration of 'My' build has been hard work.

Ok, you win. 😉