Dave Jones

10% year on year reduction in the entire civil service/council employees/ etc etc until they are gone.

use pozi's next time for service access and dont have to bother with double battening palaver

completely agree. current plan is to use the plant room where the tanks are as a major input to the mvhr so it can reclaim some of this heat and distribute around the house.

looked at this, higher you want the flow temp the lower SCOP you get. I've also factored in waste water heat recovery which does help a lot, at least on paper.

finite supply is definitely the achilleas heal. I've calculated we would need a bare minimum of 750L of hot water available at any time. 5 x power showers at 15L/min @ 10 mins ea more if the females are involved... I like very much the mixergy tank as the primary 'boiler' with some sort of pumped system to move the heat to the other tanks dotted around....

according to the 'experts' zoned heating is bad. it should be left on 24x7 with a 3-4degreeC fallback overnight.

wanting to put someones life at risk working at height not wanting to spend a couple quid on scaffolding to make the job safe. disgusting.

you need a cat scanner. you can hire them from the local hss/brandon. make sure you get it with a 'genny' this will come with a clip so you can clip it onto one of the BT wires and it send a signal down it to make detecting it underground very accurate.

you could stick some 50/75/100mm celotex to the garage wall. 20 min job to give you a rapid improvement for utility. Can use megastick in a foam gun. Check the door between utility/garage is properly draft proofed (should have intumescent strip being a fire door).

check the SE doesnt want the hangers shot fired into the top as well as this is normal practice.

maybe worth getting a cheap endoscope camera and see whats in the cavity. https://amzn.eu/d/i0gHe9A

terrible stuff. non porous and like tarmac many councils require planning application to seal driveways. block paving would be cheapest and easiest.

no issue with boarding to trusses its what 99.99% of every build does. Odd that you have a 20mm drop, assuming the wall plates are level to each other then it could be the crap quality of timber. Sistering is absolutely fine. Ask the truss company to supply the timber free if the issue isnt caused by your walls.

you could allways use marmox blocks at thresholds to mitigate cold bridging. Personally prefer 75mm min of sand/cement/fibre screed over flowscreed anyday. more thermal mass, more accurate.

you want 150mm insulation 75mm screed to make 225 to match external brickwork. EPS insulation is cheaper by far.

in roof trays GSE are very very simple to fit. best time to fit them is prior to tiling so you can make the cuts at top and side work. Ask your roofer if they have fit a velux if they have these are 10x simpler.

you could pressure wash it to remove as much sand as possible then replace with jointing compound, much better than sand/cement. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/product/building-materials/building-chemicals/jointing-compounds/c/1529003/

if your making it a warm roof do not forget to seal it with a vapour control layer.

silly.

if the walls not built, use block and beam and avoid the hassle completely.

too many dpc's. you need one under the insulation on top of the sand blinding(EPS is much cheaper than celotex, pointless taping joints) that laps up onto the DPC the brickies should have left hanging out the wall all the way round. a

oh it will certainly work BUT will cost 4 or 5 times more to run than a gas combi to achieve the same result. if you havent got a super insulated, air tight box then your pissing in the wind. literally.

attic truss.

need to compare like for like.

Just for clarity, thermolite blocks are nearly twice as bad as marmox for insulation purposes. For the few that are used on the ground floor its a false economy to skimp. https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/pub/media/productattachments/files/11_19.pdf https://www.forterra.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Thermalite-brochure-web.pdf