Dave Jones

i wouldnt say our zehdar unit is quiet. it's maybe a tad small for us running at 50% all the time, noise of a dyson from 10 feet away. Cant hear anything in any of the rooms though. the massive silencers certainly work. Just make sure you slide in the ductng wehn you build in the pozi's/joists as you wont fit them in after.

depends on your build. heat pump, car charger, cooker, hob, elec shower etc all on at same time ? They normally insist on 3 phase cabling anyway now although you can opt for single phase meter.

last reply to this nonsense, there is no other way to remove rainwater in a lot of houses. no ditches, ponds etc. soakaway crates/attenuation tank with overflow is perfectly normal.

try having a bath in 2" of water then dredging it to 3' . its not rocket science.

its called reality. Soakaways dont work in clay and never will. So you make an attenuation pit a.k.a soakaway to hold the deluge with the overflow goinjg to foul. Literally hundreds of thousands of houses like this. Flooding is a totally separate issue, dredging the rivers again would be a good start.

you will probably have to connect up the fan coils to a condensate drain as the heat exchanger will drip irrespective of the supply pipework. I'm going to have a ply with dehumidifiers as well to manually move the dew point inside the house to prevent it being an issue.

7mm of fall per m, would be an issue for foul as 13mm per M is limit for 110 pipe, i believe you can go shallower if you use larger diameter pipe though. For grey that has no solids you could lay it flat and not have an issue.

what are you considering fall challenged ?

knock it down and build a nice oak framed double with mancave above.

our zehnder unit has a bypass (turn off heat exchanger) but you can only trigger it in 24 hour blocks which is annoying. It has a 'smart' feature for detecting seasons but with our weather one day is 33 and next is 12 so isnt really of use. Going to plug it into our HA once i get time, can take care of automatic boosting through it for when cooker goes on or showers turned on etc.

get a jerry can and a breathable spout. You wont spill a drop. https://www.toolstation.com/jerry-can/p77106?store=MQ&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed

well, the HA actually turned off the cooling as dew point rose to 18 (my rule is dew point +2) As the slab was still sitting at 19 i decided to run it at 12C flow temp for 2 hours just to see a worst case example. The unlagged pipework in plantroom (on the todo list) was dripping as was the underfloor manifold, at least the metal parts. BUT the fan coils were fantastically cool, basically aircon cool. The pipework feeding them is run through the pozi's which are stuffed full off insulation but im still worried about condensation on them. For the little extra cost id definitely pipe them fully insulated next time. After an hour you could feel the cool on the ground floor. was 30c outside and 21 in the house with bifolds open. I'm going to lag the manifold and supply pipework today and let it go all day at 12. Used 8 KWH of energy at the ASHP to provide the cooling, with 30 kwh of solar generated was free. Also let this 12c flow throught the MVHR intake cooling battery which has a built in condensation trap, not really sure how much of a difference it made really.

i was looking at a couple of these for a rental. https://www.bpcventilation.com/bsk-zephyr-single-room-heat-recovery-unit Their pair up over wifi so one can extract the other supply and switch etc for heat recovery.

new test pit, new results. Perfectly fine.

nope, different area worked ok. They really don't care.

all they want is a perc test report. make one yourself, sign it and its done.

step 1. finalise your plans. step 2. Get said plans QS'd so you know to the penny what you should be paying. https://www.estimators.com/ armed with this you have a starting point for your costs, wont include foundations or 2nd fix items. £2-4k m2 and you wont be far out.

what did your SAP specify ? found keystone to be a fair bit cheaper than catnic

what makes you think that ? day to dig, day to shutter, 1 hour to pour with pump.

why did you tell them ?

actually its the only item you CAN provide if you use a builder and dont have a mortgage.

put in a normal soakawy crate, run an overflow to the foul connection. Should have made your perc test pass (its paperwork) and avoided the whole headache.

depends what you mean by standing water. porcelain hangs onto a couple mm all over, more if there is a dip/bow which nearly all porcelain has. Use your level from the house pack it up on a couple bricks make it dead level then move over and level off last pile to next until you are at french drain. tape measure starting block and end block do the math.

1 tonner with pecker for a day

they do a specifc version for block paving of course