Dave Jones

you wont have the headroom, it need above your ceiling/wiring. osb deck, vapour barrier, celotex, osb, rubber/felt etc. 200mm needed min really. then below that your 6x2 truss, plasterboard etc etc

why do you want a vapour barrier for pipes ?

if your heat loss is soo bad you need to run at 50c then it will need to run 24x7. If you expect to run it flat out for a couple hours each night and expect that to cover the other 20 hours of heat loss you are going to be in for a shock. ASHP are not gas boilers that can provide short, fast cheap bouts of very hot water. To not cost a fortune (minimum of 5 x the cost of a gas boiler per month) it needs to run constant and low to avoid spikes. You will be writing to daily mail saying what a rip off ASHP are next winter!!!!

your existing emitters are perfectly adequate for cooling, if your close to passive and have no upstairs heating then the addtion of fancoil units is a cheap and quick option.

not really. aircon is going to be 5-10x more expensive than fancoil units.

id have thought centreline is the switch which is the highest part a disabled person would need to access ?

seriously dont bother. Anything over 40C flow and it will cost you an absolute fortune to run.

saying its not worth installing batteries is like saying not installing a sink as you can use a bucket. same with a 5k kitchen and a 55k kitchen. It's all 100% subjective.

they look same as our recessed covers, those plastic bits slide off and expose the handle underneath. I did snap this cover on one before we installed as it was soo tight. try knocking it off with a chisel to expos the handle. can allways dab it back on with a bit of silicone after

As its actually nice today, tried out running the heatpump in reverse to cool the house. To keep above dewpoint (home assistant takes care of this) set at 16C, had the slab down to 16 within 4 hours and the house is noticeably cooler when walking inside. Have 5 panasonic fancoil units in the bedrooms which will test once the painters are done.

your overthinking it. If you have it QS'd thats the price for the work. Not QS + another 30 or 40% because they had long tea breaks a couple days. Fix the quote to the QS and pay to the QS in arrears monthly. Have the chap who did the QS do the visit each month and give you a report of what you need to pay. Fair to everyone and you all know from the start where you stand.

just do this. they wont file anything clowns are all talk.

yeah thats not half. A true half needs 2 cuts per brick. There are companies who will cut bricks for flemish bond etc, if you need more than 2 packs like we did its cheaper top buy an electric wet table saw. we bought a 110v redband table saw. amazing bit of kit, must have put 4000 bricks through it.

no sit the billfold's on top of the marmox, they are a thermal break. mass fill cavity, insulation over top, screed on top of that.

75mm of eps is basically nothing. you need roughly double the thickness of eps to achieve same as celotex.

marmox blocks under the bifold. dpc and conc the cavity behind it. run flooring/screed over the top.

do your own perco test, its dead simple. Heres mine, warranty and BCO fine with it. ]

excess solar through heat pump into slab. the eddi has a feature where it can decide if its more cost effective to drive the heat pump over an immersion for example.

free heating can be leveraged.

new regs now so will see many more as hard to get decent SAP with gas now.

method of heat source is irrelevant. What is the heat loss calcs for your desired internal temperature. Size a unit accordingly.

the correct way of doing this is to put a cavity tray at ground level which 'lifts' the DPC 225 or however many blocks higher. Builder cant have been upto much if they didnt know that.

have a look at other applications submitted and copy one of them.

100mm pipe centres and no zones!

hard to tell but it looks like some repointing has happened in cement mortar, this will trap water in and force it through the inside. very common with 9" solid walls which yours almost certainly is from that period. Check its all lime for starters. May have a slate dpc but unlikely, our 1899 has nothing including no footing. Brickwork should resist being soaked and dry out, if water cannot escape through the front due to modern cement it will go through to the inside.