Dave Jones

it does run underneath on the panel below as the trays overlap but the first panel you need somewhere for the tiles to sit on hence the top flashing. You could i suppose do away with it and run lead but would still need a batten to kick up the tiles so would end up with a gap under the tiles.

dont put anything over that lead it looks great as it is.

pick any non standard construction and it will cost more. stick to tried and tested to keep costs down.

it negates the need for external paving to be 150mm below the outer DPC

from my talks with panasonic, the largest factor in causing short cycling was incorrectly sized heaty pump followed by zoning. Our was only turned on march, with flow temp set to 25 to give a too warm 21 inside (no loft insulation at time) it was getting COP of 8+ and never really turned off. We have a setback now so wil be interesting come November time to see how it performs now we are fully insulated and air tight.

ditto. have you had it down to clean as yet ? Ours is a few months old now so its on the list. The MVHR filters were really bad, lot of construction dust.

there is specific drainage detail below the cill that needs to be followed. The sides still need a tray in my opinion to be on safe side .

used one of these, handles 4 showers, dishawashers, washing machine, 5 toilet flushes and 6 handbasins at same time with no loss. tested it... https://www.anchorpumps.com/gws-challenger-300l-vertical-pressure-vessel

planners dont design SUDS so it begs the question who come up with your design and who put it to the planners.

cheapest kit to hire, GAP charged us £130 a week for a 1.5 tonner.

couple points, 1. Have you had the build checked against the original agreed QS by an independent qualified QS ? The normal way of things when making stage payments or drawdowns is the QS employed by the lender (you) visits site with the original QS in hand, looks to see what is completed or part completed and then pays out against this QS. There is also a contingency for the unexpected. Did any of this happen or you just paid the bills when the builder sent them ? 2. CIS/TAX. This is really irrelevant if you followed the normal way of working above. For example the brickie invoices the main contractor £10k. HMRC then tells the main contractor to either pay the £10k gross or stop 20% of it and send it them. Either way it doesn't change the QS figure.

dump them into the foul with suitable crateage as a buffer ? or no mains sewer either ?

this does seem at odds with the heat geek guys advice. Creating differential temperatures in the same slab equals losses so greater input is needed than otherwise would be the case. Can see if you are using different emitters, some UFH some rad etc fair enough. Bit like having 2 TRV's on 1 rad.

concrete it so the insualtion is supported. put some damp under the conc

are you suggesting land be stolen from its owners by the gov ? oh yes they did that already with the HS2 con.

easy appeal win though, at most SUDS is a planning condition that needs discharging.

privatise the planning system. Take the admin of the planning process out of the councils and into the private sector. Once the private companies have processed the application is 4 or 5 days they are presented to the weekly planning committee for approval. Councillors stay there until they have all been processed that day.

leylandi

lot of money and hassle just to avoid using celotex and gapotape.

disaster in the making. before you do anything else, get your heat loss calcs done. without this you are pizzing in the wind.

it would dry out. CCTV inspection of the drains first. Cheap endoscope camera on ebay

subframes.co.uk they supply eurocell. can do any cavity size, drop them an email. Have a choice of U values as well. If your outside skin is brickwork dont forget to order them to work brick to avoid cuts.

drain holes may help a tiny amount, but wont stop the movement. The brick wall they are stuck to is going to get soaked, and stay soaked. Then the freeze/thaw will make the grout give out. Really needed that wall being tanked behind with DPC, then backfilled with clean gravel 300mm or so wide and drainage holes at bottom. That way the wall has a chance to dry out. pretty easy to drill some holes though, just buy a 22mm porcelain hole cutter, once through the porcelain stick a 20mm SDS though the brickwork behind. If it goes into mud though its not going to do much.

You can put SUDS right upto your build, just need them designed by a geotech with a PI policy. This gets round the normal 5m min distance rule.

on a normal build this would be easy to solve with a tray 1 block above. Effectively moving the DPC 225mm up. On a shed build ....