Gone West

It will be interesting to see how interested your BCO is in the ventilation calculations. Our BCO wasn't interested at all. We use the EASHP to heat our 180l DHW tank and as we never use that much hot water at a time the tank recovers quite quickly.

Yes I agree, that's why I said there was confusion because you were talking about @Thedreamer's build and I was talking more generally about the GS200 as was first discussed by the op. We got there in the end.

Correct. If an older house has an existing ventilation system ie trickle vents and I add one of these units then I haven't found anything in Part F that indicates I have to update the ventilation levels. I therefore don't need to extract 50l/s from inside the house but can extract a proportion of that from inside the house and the remainder from outside the house. I will just be enhancing the existing ventilation system.

No it wouldn't because I would only be drawing, in my example, 17.5l/s the remaining 32.5l/s would be coming from the external vent.

I understand what you're saying but from a practical point of view if I still lived in my old house with trickle vents I could fit one of these units and draw 35% of the air from inside the house and 65% from outside the house. I would not be replacing any existing ventilation just enhancing the ventilation that already exists. I think the confusion is that you are referring to a new ventilation system using one of these units and I am talking about enhancing an existing system which uses trickle vents in an older house.

I'm not explaining myself very well. Taking my house as an example. The bathroom needs ventilation at 7l/s, kitchen at 8.5l/s and shower at 3l/s giving a total of 18.5l/s to ventilate those rooms sufficiently. That leaves a requirement of 31.5l/s from the external vent to give the required flow for the heat pump. The four vents could be balanced to provide the correct flows. The rooms need ventilating at that rate and therefore heating whatever system is used. Most houses have trickle vents which would provide the required airflow into those rooms. It's not perfect by any means but for a lot of houses would be a good solution.

In our area in the summer when the sun shines, in the afternoon there is always a breeze. This helps to prevent a heat build up on the surface of the roof, therefore decrement delay is less of a factor. Unless your property is well sheltered I would be more concerned about heat loss. Presumably the room has good ventilation.

Wouldn't it be possible to have connected ducting for say three internal extracts and one external extract, balanced, so the internal extracts are extracting at the correct rate for the room type?

I have a natural immunity to tuberculosis from when I was a child, without feeling unwell, but I think it would be classed as a serious disease as would Weils disease as they are both potentially life threatening.

Do you know when the 10 years period starts from?

Hi, welcome to the forum. It's a great resource as you've found. Good luck with your build.

When we started our build in 2010 we had an oversailing cable and some poles moved by EDF who later morphed into UKPN. We also had an agreement that because we were building a PH we could have an internal supply. When we eventually had the cable pulled through the ducting, installed by me, UKPN honoured the agreement first set up with EDF, even though they would have preferred I had an outside box.

I have seen a rat in our garden but they tend to stay only if there is a food supply such as bird food left overnight on the ground. We have a camera watching the hedgehog box and the only thing that has gone in other than the hedgehog is a woodmouse.

We have given electrical items to Age Concern without any problems, they said they would take anything.

When we cleared our bungalow we gave a lot of the furniture to local charities that collected it. There are national charities that will collect furniture. https://emmaus.org.uk/ https://www.bhf.org.uk/shop/donating-goods/f-and-e-collection

Yes I see, in my case it's a hanging screen so doesn't touch the ground, just the shingle pushed up to the outside.

The brick slips are just a rainscreen and our DPC is behind the cavity. I can't say for sure whether Wetherby do a blue brick but they do have a large range. We have shingle around the base which just covers the bottom of the slips.

We half DIY'd it. We installed the render board (Bluclad) and mesh but I chickened out of fixing the slips and pointing as we were running out of time for getting the plinth finished and the cedar cladding fitted before the weather changed. We had a chap who was a general builder finish it for us. He said it was straightforward and he used a half round tool for finishing the mortar. We could have done it ourselves but it would have taken a lot longer.

I used the Wetherby system which uses a bagged mortar which is applied with a mortar gun. The whole system is pretty straightforward to use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoZGlEU7apA

@pocster Well I wouldn't want to rely solely on an anti slam mechanism in the header rail with a glass door but as you say having a wooden cover piece sounds like an easy way out. My door post has a rubber T piece inset into a groove which acts as a soft stop. I'm sure with more thought they could have designed the white piece on your frame to incorporate a soft stop.

My Dad used to use fibrous Rawlplugs in the fifties, which I used to pass to him, being very helpful?

I think this is just a UK semi standard. I've bought boxes of plugs which follow that rule but some manufacturers make their own for specific uses.

Presumably the order of the words is fixed, hence fewer total words required. So someone else could be "stumpy corrupted salads"?

I use Soudal MS Clear, sticks anything. http://www.soudal.eu/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=9&p=410&ID=1994

There doesn't seem any option other than to glue it.