Gone West

That is exactly what is in mine. IIRC the instructions say turn on and when it's warm fit the top plug to allow for expansion. Mine are all Geyser. https://www.geyser.co.uk/heated-towel-rails

Do you have any drawings. Is it possible to check back on the LA Planning website to find what was applied for, and check the Building Control website to see if it's been inspected. Have you put any rods down the soil pipes to see if they are connected to anything. It could save some money if the drains are already connected and the foundations are suitable.

I think your idea is good and a simple solution to overcoming the problem of cool supply air in the winter. It's unlikely that at normal UFH water temperature you will get too much heat. Our MVHR has a built in EASHP which keeps the air supply at least as warm as the room. It will also provide warm air if required up to a maximum of 50C, any hotter and apparently the dust in the system starts to smell.

Nice idea, also will prevent condensation forming on the outside of the cistern.

I can't see a real problem with that layout and it is the way I would do it as long as the drop is ok.

As a novice, every job you do will take a LOT longer than a professional. That isn't to say that you couldn't do it better, it depends on who you get, but it will take longer. If you're spending a lot on rent then you need to weigh up what is more important to you.

No, it's never been checked. I just use the nose test. There's no smell with the lid off then I'm happy. There is a huge difference between the old septic tank and the treatment plant in that respect.

We have a sewage treatment plant that has been running for nearly eleven years and we have used a water softener all that time. We haven't found any problems.

Our house is heated by the towel rails in the bathrooms so the bathrooms are a bit warmer, 24C, than the rest of the house. You might feel more comfortable increasing the bathroom temperature by a degree or two.

Comfort is a very personal thing and Wendy would not be at all happy at 19C. The minimum we have our heating at is 23C. Some people are happy to wear outdoor clothes, such as jumpers, inside in the winter but we prefer to wear T shirts in doors. As I said, for most comfort set the thermostat to what you find most comfortable.

86 quid for smoke. He must be expecting a lot of leaks. We paid £200 for half a day which included smoke tests, calculations and airtightness test.

Hi Bernd, welcome to the forum. It looks an interesting project, hope it goes well. It's nice to see you keeping the bungalow and extending it.

Each layer should be in the opposite direction to the previous layer to minimise gaps and hence heat loss.

Sounds like a good plan to me.

@zoothorn If there wasn't a loft hatch fitted by the builder did he drape the insulation over the joists as he was plasterboarding the ceiling. That would explain everything.

From what you have described the reason your room is cold is largely because the loft insulation hasn't been installed correctly. The type of insulation you have in the loft shouldn't be fitted so it can sag or be compressed. There should be a minimum of 300mm. The first layer should fit between the joists snuggly so there are no gaps, is not compressed and is roughly level with the top of the timber, probably 100mm. The next layer should go perpendicular to the joists, and if it was 200mm thick it would finish the job. If less than 200mm fit two layers with the second perpendicular to the first. It's a minimum of 300mm, it doesn't matter if it's 400mm. It's a crap job I've done several times but it does make a lot of difference if it's done properly. The builder obviously couldn't be bothered.

From their Glasroc White Book :- Perimeter and junction sealing Designers must give consideration to the precautions necessary at junctions to ensure that moisture is not allowed to penetrate or collect. Cut edges of boards must be appropriately sealed and waterproofed at abutments. Waterproof sealant should be used around baths or shower trays, between the wall surface and the floor at the base of partition or wall lining, to prevent any possible moisture being absorbed by the board core. Tanking systems In extreme moisture environments, the exposed surfaces of Glasroc H tilebacker should be treated with a suitable tanking system. Continuity of linings All partitions and wall linings should be complete. There should be no omissions to board linings, e.g. behind baths.

Hi Kes, welcome to the forum. There's all sorts on here as well as all the different types of projects. You'll find plenty on renovations, extensions and new builds.

Not ideal, but you need only take the bath side panel off to access the flooring under the bath. Is that normal timber floorboards or possibly chipboard, plywood or OSB.

Does that mean Boris hasn't yet cooked his goose with his oven ready deal.

If you really want the room tanked then the tanking would have to go under the bath as well because otherwise any spills could run under the bath and bypass the tanking. Is this a two storey house or a flat or what. What type of floor is under the vinyl mat.

I would foam the 1-2cm gap leaving enough depth, around 20mm, to point it up.

I would strip off all the old white paint in that area if not already done. Repair the stonework and leave to dry. Lime will take a little while in the winter anyway giving you time to decide if you like it or not. Then you can paint it all if you want.

I've just read a book about a chap who lived without money or technology. Very interesting. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1786077272

Interesting programme on iPlayer https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m000bks0