Gone West

We have a short section of Griselinia littoralis which is perfect for a low level hedge, 1m high. It's evergreen, nice shade of green, not fast growing and easily trimmed.

We dry our washing in the wet room which has an electric towel rail and a MVHR extract vent. It dries overnight.

Same here .

The only problem with that approach is that if in the future a lot of frying of food takes place the oil droplets will condense on the inside of the ductwork. Not an easy job to clean.

We have used Miele dishwashers and washing machines, both integrated and free standing, for the last twenty years, in different houses, without any problems.

Aviva insure our timber clad, timber frame house with no problems. They also insured our old timber frame bungalow.

Don't think there is any difference in the style, just the name.

Mexicano.

If you have a narrow gap under a door then the air will move faster and it is possible to have a slight draught for that reason. I think a minimum gap of 10mm is usual. The air from the supply vents will always be a degree or two cooler than the air in the room so will always feel cooler. You can fit a small post heater to overcome the heat loss if you find it uncomfortable. Setting it up correctly will probably result in reduced air flow. I put a section in my blog about commissioning my MVHR system. Some cross posting with Russell.

You're not the only one.

The amount of water needed to travel through 300mm insulation would be a lot more than caused by condensation I'd have thought.

@ToughButterCup Hi Ian, sorry to hear about the leak. I can't think of anything, other than as you've suggested a tear in the felt. Not a lot of help I know. What are the two types of insulation in the roof makeup? I would have thought a fair amount of water would need to get under the felt in order to make it through 300mm unless it's very open cell type, non absorbent insulation. I can't understand why the direction of the wind would make any difference as the overlap on the tiles should prevent water being blown up underneath. It was a wet winter last year so why no leak then? Sorry more questions than answers.

IIRC you are not required to register a borehole. We supplied our borehole details to the BGS who put it on the register.

I should think so. Although ours was an accident, it has proved to be useful for watering the garden in the summers. We have two wells just up and down the lane from us but they are only 2m to 3m deep but ours is 47m deep.

Yes that's the site where I entered the data for our borehole.

Our standard soffits are 250mm. I like the look of deep soffits and at the back of the house they're 750mm to tie in with the balcony.

That is exactly what is in mine. IIRC the instructions say turn on and when it's warm fit the top plug to allow for expansion. Mine are all Geyser. https://www.geyser.co.uk/heated-towel-rails

Do you have any drawings. Is it possible to check back on the LA Planning website to find what was applied for, and check the Building Control website to see if it's been inspected. Have you put any rods down the soil pipes to see if they are connected to anything. It could save some money if the drains are already connected and the foundations are suitable.

I think your idea is good and a simple solution to overcoming the problem of cool supply air in the winter. It's unlikely that at normal UFH water temperature you will get too much heat. Our MVHR has a built in EASHP which keeps the air supply at least as warm as the room. It will also provide warm air if required up to a maximum of 50C, any hotter and apparently the dust in the system starts to smell.

Nice idea, also will prevent condensation forming on the outside of the cistern.

I can't see a real problem with that layout and it is the way I would do it as long as the drop is ok.

As a novice, every job you do will take a LOT longer than a professional. That isn't to say that you couldn't do it better, it depends on who you get, but it will take longer. If you're spending a lot on rent then you need to weigh up what is more important to you.

No, it's never been checked. I just use the nose test. There's no smell with the lid off then I'm happy. There is a huge difference between the old septic tank and the treatment plant in that respect.

We have a sewage treatment plant that has been running for nearly eleven years and we have used a water softener all that time. We haven't found any problems.

Our house is heated by the towel rails in the bathrooms so the bathrooms are a bit warmer, 24C, than the rest of the house. You might feel more comfortable increasing the bathroom temperature by a degree or two.