Gone West

Sorry I can't help with a recommendation but this might point you in the right direction. https://www.saga.co.uk/magazine/home-garden/gardening/ideas/virtual-garden-design

I had a similar thing at our last house running through the mortar line which had rusted and split the pointing. It turned out to be an old earth wire but never found out why.

You're not being stupid, yes, the arrangement you have is similar to mine, except I only have two toilets connected. The Floplast double branch you linked to is the one I used.

Have you looked at skirting heating systems.

I don't particularly like the feel of UFH and the positioning of radiators affects the layout of rooms so to me skirting heating systems are the answer.

As it's only around a metre deep if I were your neighbour I would simply paint the affected area of wall with https://www.promain.co.uk/interior-wall-and-ceiling-paint/basement-paints/watertite-basement-waterproofing-paint.html

Unfortunately I don't have any experience of skirting heating but have looked at it in the past. It would be my first choice for a wet heating system.

If that's the case why can't you use clear plastic hose?

I had a repair carried out on my softener under guarantee and the Harveys plumber looked at the overflow pipe and the only comment was that it should be a straight pipe from the softener to the waste. Mine curved round and he altered it to be straight.

My water softener overflow and drain both go into a waste with the overflow at the bottom RHS and drain at the top RHS. The BCO didn't say there was a problem and it's worked fine for three years.

They are OK and that is what I used in my house. The BCO was quite happy.

There was some discussion years ago about phthalates in vinyl flooring as they were possibly carcinogenic and as a result you can buy vinyl flooring that is phthalate free. I don't know if that is what you are referring to.

Is that right? I didn't know there was a minimum U factor of 0.1W/(m²K) for roof construction in a PH.

Yeah, this was nearly 20 years later. She gets all the good jobs.

You do have to be very sure about the ground conditions when digging holes. I certainly wouldn't do that around here.

I get Wendy to do work like that. She is my go to person for narrow holes and trenches. This was at our last house back in the 90s and it was only 2m deep.

You could try https://www.sennocke.co.uk/ They offer all types of cover.

I'm no expert but I thought if you're using two different heat sources with very different temperatures you should use a thermal store. Don't know if that's what you mean by a buffer tank but buffer tanks are usually much smaller. I'm not sure how well thermal stores work with ASHPs.

I don't have to any more, thank goodness. I used to say 'it'll be years yet' and I was never wrong and no one was ever disappointed.

Is it sealed or like charcoal so if you lean against it comes off on your clothes.

I'm sorry, I'm obviously missing something but if the studs are 145mm deep and with external racking why not 145mm of insulation?

I have a 350mm I-beam timber frame with Icynene spray foam. It's very good for heat insulation and airtightness but it's not cheap and there's a lot of tidying up required afterwards. 130m2 floor area, two storey, and it was just under £10,000 for walls and roof about five years ago. I can look up the details if you're interested.

No I didn't mean that, I didn't notice it had that type of long edge. Is that how they're joined together length ways or something.

Can't you make an outer frame with mitred corners and then board up to the frame.

I have a Genvex Combi 185L which is a ventilation system with a built in EASHP which heats my DHW and provides warm air which supplements the normal heating provided by electric towel rails in the bathrooms. The towel rails keep the bathrooms at around 24C and the ventilation system transfers the heat around the house. This type of system only works for space heating because the house is very highly insulated and airtight.