Gone West

We had very low U values in our PH. We heated the DHW with an EASHP which was built into the MVHR system so also provided warm air through the ventilation. The house was heated with three towel rails in the bathrooms. I designed the house so no conventional central heating system was required. We ran the whole house at 23C 24/7.

I bought a Testo 405i and made a cone. https://www.test-meter.co.uk/testo-405i-bluetooth-thermal-anemometer These are the results. I just made a table.

I have twice successfully challenged a Valuation Office banding. The first time I was prepared to go to appeal and then received a letter, few days before the appeal date, agreeing my banding request. The second time I wanted a banding two below their decision, and we compromised on one below.

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/2022/10/25/google-shares-drop-youtube-suffers-first-ever-fall-advertising/

Every day, but not a large volume, hence would 250l TS be enough with ST and PV? Yes, at the moment, with a small vented cylinder, we're ok from around April to September. Don't know what the effect of going from 140l to 250l would be on the amount of oil used in the Spring and Autumn.

We don't use a lot of DHW so if we had a 250l TS with solar coil, two immersions and a high recovery DHW coil you don't think we would use too much oil, heating the DHW outside of the winter. Would it be best to have a direct or indirect TS for the CH?

Our car can be driven by any numpty, hence why I've got it, it won't even let you hit anything when parking, it just stops. I don't like some of the fancy gubbins though. Driving tests will have to change some more, as they have over the years. When I took mine I had to show I knew hand signals.

It's all relative, what do you call expensive for a new car. PS My 2007 Honda Civic had traction control.

Thanks Nick. I had considered a thermal store first but thought I would use more oil heating it in the spring and autumn. Do you know what sort of temperature I would have to keep the TS at in order to get hot water out at 45C?

Our car and most modern cards have traction control so wheel spin is unlikely.

Bear with me because I haven't read all six pages. The obvious answer to me is to add "4." to the options, which would be to trade your old car for a modern car that doesn't have a conventional handbrake, just a button, and has automatic hill start. That must be easier than redesigning your front garden and changing it all when it seems you are happy with the look of it and you spent so much achieving that look.

I can't find any information on Domino tanks, is that a manufacturer?

We already had PV and solar thermal fitted when we moved in, but our existing vented tank is only 140l and we were going to fit a larger UVC.

@JohnMo & @PeterW Ok thanks. So I have to have fitted the largest coil that can be squeezed in along with the solar coil and two immersions and accept limited condensing. I guess I'll have to fit a larger UVC than I originally intended then. So there's no advantage to restricting the flow through the coil then?

Calling plumbing gurus, @Nickfromwales, @PeterW, @pocster? How do I plumb a UVC heated by a condensing oil boiler to ensure it condenses when heating DHW. I understand that with a flow temperature of say 60C and a temperature drop of 20C through the radiators it should be in condensing mode for space heating. When heating DHW the UVC coil presumably won't be able to extract enough heat to provide a 20C temperature drop so do I have to restrict the flow through the coil? If so what is the best way to do it and set it up for condensing.

That's exactly what we did, great minds and all that.

I found that the easiest bit, Wendy did it!!

Fortunately we finished our build four and a half years ago and now it's just a dim and distant memory. Moved on to the next project now. It took eight years to complete and it's not something I would want to do again. The hardest part was the relentless day in day out slog.

We didn't find any downsides but the house was very highly insulated and was designed not to need a conventional CH system. The air from the MVHR vents was only warm, so the EASHP had a high CoP. The EASHP also heated the DHW tank to 45C. Our electricity bills were very low, but that was pre 2021.

Ours was 320mg/l so we had to have one really.

I had to have one hot water and one cold softened water and one cold hard water. Much easier living with naturally soft water.

I glued down all the groundfloor stud wall sole plates using PU gel adhesive.

Rather than the specific details of a particular borehole it's whether there are several historical shallow wells in the area, less than ten feet deep, that could indicate a high water table. Where I used to live was, hundreds of years ago, the old coastline salt marshes and the geology changed significantly over short distances. Most of the pre 20thC properties in the area had shallow wells. PS It looks like the borehole details you linked to showed that they drilled 180 feet but never finished the well and that it is capped off.

I lived in the area for a long time and only saw the Elham Nailbourne flowing in a few winters. http://www.barham-kent.org.uk/modern_nailbourne.htm

The water table where I used to live could vary by 2.5m over a year from ground level downwards. I had a borehole drilled and it was water bearing all the way down to the chalk which was also water bearing at 47m down.