Gone West

It has for domestic use, but is allowed for commercial use. I found their creosote substitute to be good, in the short term (six years) at least. It has the same reassuring smell. https://www.creosotesales.co.uk/

I did it twice, once for SAP and then the real settings for PH, which is what we kept. The BCO wasn't interested in the SAP results, so for me it was a waste of time.

Yes it worked well. It sends the reading via bluetooth to an app on the phone and then I printed them out. It's just time consuming going round every vent and then repeating the process until it's all balanced.

I've often thought about that. The Romans had it sussed and then the Victorians came along and set us back two thousand years 😉.

I would hope not. Mine only cleared when the sun came up or the wind started to blow. If it clears when the house is heated, the glazing isn't keeping the heat in enough.

What type of ground floor do you have. Is it a concrete slab or suspended timber. What was the thickness of insulation fitted under the UFH. Does the carpet have a low tog rating. It could be that, as @SteamyTea says you may be losing the heat to the ground.

There aren't many true prefabs left anymore. Could be very interesting to research it's history. I worked with a chap, many years ago, who wrote a book of his childhood, growing up in a prefab in Kent. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Prefab-Kid-Postwar-Childhood-Kent/dp/1857701755

Welcome to the forum. I'll start by asking you a random question, how old is the prefab.

@Angelheart I used an asbestos self test and found the whole inside of my old bungalow was lined with Chrysotile panels and the roof tiles were also Chrysotile. I had the panels removed professionally and removed and bagged the roof tiles myself which were then removed by the company. They did a clean air test inside but not outside. I would always do my own test as I do not tend to trust companies like that. That is further backed up by the fact they are asking for an outside clean air test. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Sample-Testing-Instructions-Postage/dp/B0862B9JZB/

I looked at the Hotun dry tundish when plumbing my last build. https://hotun.co.uk/

@Nickfromwales That's great, many thanks for your help.

So the boiler, radiators and thermal store are all on the same direct circuit and the DHW is heated via a 28mm coil. The solar coil can presumably go in the bottom of the tank along with low and mid position immersions.

So I presume that method means having an external heat exchanger is not a good idea. I have been talking to Newark about their Aquinox MF thermal store which would have meant having a system oil boiler and coil in the TS. I'm now unsure what is the best way to have an oil boiler, TS, radiators and DHW plumbed and have the boiler condensing. 🤔 https://newarkcylinders.co.uk/aquinox-mf.html

Or Fakro even 😄. We put a Fakro roof window in our last house as we didn't want Velux. Worked as it should, no problems.

How do you specify a high recovery coil? What would the coil size? be for a 250l thermal store with a feed temperature of 65C, heating the tank from 20C to 60C.

We did our bungalow back in 2008 and were able to get a 50% grant so it was certainly worth it. I don't know if you could find an appropriate grant as they don't have to know it will be demolished sometime.

We had an old timber frame, timber clad bungalow, 100mm cavity, filled with blown mineral fibre. It made a huge difference to our oil usage, reducing it by 30% to 40%. We lived in it while building our self build in the garden. It took us eight years to build the house, although the plan was only two or three years. You never know how things will turn out, so I would install the insulation, as cheaply as possible, and be more comfortable while living there.

Many years ago I had our semi-detached house repointed to match the original and using yellow sand and white cement we ended up with a creamy colour. In the picture, to the right of the downpipe, the neighbours was repointed using grey cement.

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I don't really know. I just looked at reviews and prices for the specifications given and came up with that one. It seemed the best for what I wanted. I have since found out that not every wireless device will work with a mesh system and unfortunately my weather station can't connect. Everything else I have works with no problem so I will have to change over to a Powerline wireless system to get the weather station to send data to the PC. I have it but it's on my long list of to do's.

Years ago a neighbouring bungalow had the same effect on the gable. It was because the gable was built a few weeks later than the walls by a different team of brickies and the mortar mix was different. It never changed colour over time.

We also have a TP Link Deco system which is an M4 AC1200 with three units. It's in an small, 130m2, old stone bungalow. It's been going for eighteen months without any problems.

We really like the look of your extension and especially the roof. Would you mind sharing how the roof has been constructed, was it a cold or warm roof etc. How did you find the Sarnafil SPM and did you do any of the work yourself.

No, our system used the EASHP to use the heat recovered from the MVHR. There are standalone DHW cylinders that utilise a dedicated air to water heat pump to provide hot water. https://www.vaillant.co.uk/for-installers/products/arostor-domestic-hot-water-heat-pump-58880.html

We had a double glazed porch 3m x 1.5m which we used for solar gain. It faced ESE and proved very useful in the spring and autumn as we simply opened the hall door and had free heat. In the summer we used reflective blinds in the porch which we kept closed all the time.