Gone West

If the tiles are well stuck down, permanently covering them would be a good idea. Although I removed my old Chrysotile asbestos roofing slates I would not be so happy about removing asbestos indoors. Also disposing of them legally would still be expensive.

For us BC were strict about distance from house but were happy about being next to boundary, but the boundary is next to an orchard in our case.

We had the electricity connected on 3/12/17 and started the Genvex Combi on the 19/12/17. We also had the electric towel rails on for eight hours a day at that time. We didn't move in until 3/4/18. Up until we moved in the temperature was around 22C. This coming winter will be the first full winter living in here so I will keep a record of what temperature we end up keep it at and our electricity usage.

I used the PHPP to model our house which takes into account solar gain and also the residual heat gain from appliances etc. It might be worth getting a copy if serious about PH values.

I meant that the maximum U factor for PH walls, roof and ground floor is 0.15 w/m2K and that mine are 0.095 W/m2K which allows me to use the space heating system that we have.

@mike2016 We have an all electric PH with SAP A95 and no PV, so it's certainly possible in England.

That's what we found when we went to appeal. It was still rejected but the reasons given allowed us to resubmit an application taking all the inspectors comments into account. I think that was what helped us a lot when we went to committee and won.

Hi and welcome to the forum @Simon R. As has already been stated we have a Genvex Combi 185LS which provides the DHW and backup space heating. The LS version is the larger of the two types of Combi 185. Our main space heating is provided by an electric towel rail in each of the three bathrooms. This form of heating is only possible in our house because the space heating requirement is extremely low and the house is small. Unless you are planning to insulate your house to substantially higher levels than the minimum PH level I would use a different primary space heating method. Good luck with your project.

That's exactly our experience with our cedar cladding. Where the rain blows under the verandah there is a diagonal line of faded cladding below and original colour above. This is the north side before and after with about four years between.

Depends on the width of the chord. My spacing and chord width varies depending on the span and load.

SIPS or slips?

Hi and welcome to the forum. Good luck with the build. IIRC there have been others on here looking into a group build.

You could use high level windows between the bedroom and extended hall with a glass door at the end of the hall into the garden. Another option would be a light tube.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You could knock the two rear bedrooms into one and the extension could be another bedroom. Extend the hall to the rear for access to the bedroom and outside.

Yes we had no trouble from anyone living locally with our application. We only had a complaint when they said we weren't demolishing the old bungalow fast enough.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Good luck with your project.

Our's was L shaped and had single storey and double storey parts. It takes them only a little longer to go around the L so it shouldn't be too high a quote.

It took three or four days to do our borehole.

I don't know what all the others bits would cost but I had a 47m deep borehole drilled through clay in 2010 and it cost £3000 all in.

Have I missed the next installment or has the main event taken over? We're starting to plan our shed made from the usable timber from dismantling the bungalow. Did your idea of using the thinner narrower slats to cover the joins work at keeping the rain out or did they cup? We've got most of a roll of Tyvek Housewrap somewhere which we were thinking of putting around the frame before cladding with the floorboards from the bungalow so would we need the cover pieces?

We just sent out drawings and went with a company that was recommended.

Ours went up in October 2010 and was taken down in December 2011 and cost £2500 all in. It was for fours sides, two lifts and two hop ups with one side being an oversail of a single storey part of the build.

Would it be possible to mould one in glassfibre, would help with the thermal bridging?

@JSHarris Is it possible to publish a detailed set of plans without contravening any regulations?

Congratulations, it's a good feeling.