PeterW

builder..?? A lot of that should be done by others such as plumber / M&E / electrician etc so it’s horses for courses as a general builder shouldn’t / wouldn’t know about some of that but should be part of the planning and decision making as routing of ducts through steels etc can be a challenge … much easier done on paper and then tell the builder to follow the plans religiously …

28x25 Armflex on 28mm PEX is going to give you a 78mm wide pipe that won’t fit side by side with another down a 110mm duct, and will be tight in a 160mm too. Going down to 28x19 is still 66mm, anything less and the heat loss is substantially greater. I’d be going with the pre-insulated stuff and getting it in now as it’s a pain in the arse to get 28mm PEX through ducts at the best of times.

Something not cement based so it doesn’t corrode the pipe.. How deep is it ..?

you can’t… you have PV - so stick in MVHR, when you’re not there you’ll be using the significant generation capacity to offload the running costs (we are talking 80w/hr) and then have the comfort of ventilation and energy saving. so the ASHP is probably the most technically complex thing you can install as the control systems required are more complex than a standard boiler… What is your plan for hot water ..? And what uValues are you aiming for on the overall build ..?

so what was the tile cutting cost in the end ..?

silicone grease on the cable is your friend here .. stops it snagging and doesn’t affect the insulation

that would test his waterproofing ..!!!

Sorry - read the Financial Ombudsman note here about what is not covered by Section 75 https://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/consumers/complaints-can-help/credit-borrowing-money/goods-services-bought-credit It is very specific about what is and is not covered

No you’re not - you’ve got this confused over the protection under the CCA and product specific loans. If you had taken out a credit agreement with the supplier, for specific products and the payment is made from the finance provider to the supplier directly, then the goods are protected from point of payment until the goods fully pass to you when settlement has been made. The key here is who makes the transaction. If the supplier defaults then the agreement is then void as the finance provider is partly liable for recovery - it’s how you can get issues resolved on faulty goods by getting the finance house to get involved. What Martin Lewis was referring to was the voluntary scheme that some banks offer, and that is where issues occur and you’ve taken out a specific loan for goods, and they may assist with chargeback but again it relates to debit card payment chargebacks and not bank transfers. sadly, bank transfers are the least safest method for consumer protection but becoming the norm.

got an evolution saw for cutting this sort of thing and even with a 60 tpi blade it snatches at the metal so you need to go really slowly. The evolution also seems to run slower than my Makita - would need to check if it’s perception though !

Thermino is £2400 above the price of the same 300 litre UVC (£900) . It also has a CoP of 1, so assuming 3000Kw of hot water per annum (standard value used) then your Thermino will require 3000KwH of electricity at best 20p/KWH off peak so around £600 PA, lifetime cost over 10 years of ~£10k Same setup on UVC and ASHP at raw CoP of 2, then power cost is £300 PA, lifetime cost over 10 years of ~£5k You can “over charge” a UVC to 95°C and double its delivery capacity at 42°C - you cannot do that with a Thermino so it really is a solution where unless you have no space then it’s not a very economic choice or one that makes sense if you are only using it off electricity and not a dual heat source, and even then the costs are significantly higher with no discernible benefit.

only for a stand-alone install, if done as part of a new build then then commissioning certificate from the manufacturers warranty booklet is fine to give to BCO as they should register all under the same submission.

Been around years - one of the first in the renewables game from memory. Also used to do thermal stores that were very good quality - not sure who used to make them for them though..

No pump or blender on the manifold ..?? On the positive side, it’s got an air bleed on the top rail which is a start ..!

They are thin coat beads - you want wet plaster or render beads Search for Plaster Standard Angle Bead

+1 to this… lots to consider including the “post” Is probably the newel and is not structurally graded for anything other than holding up the stairs. You’ve got dead loads to consider here and a whole heap of challenges in how you engineer the spans so one for the professionals.

I’m assuming here that you’ve got plasterboard reveals but full bonding / topcoat everywhere else direct to block ..? What sort of cracks are we talking as unless the mortar was strong and the blocks were thermolites or similar then you shouldn’t have cracks anywhere. You could mesh the base coat but it seems overkill - @nod any thoughts ..?

EW is the load Fa = b means the load is uniformly supported at a & b (ie spread evenly) m is the bending moment of the steel (ie its material strength) ♾️(or similar..!) is the maximum deflection of the beam, usually in the centre @Gus Potter ..??

Brett Martin every day of the week..! They do soil to match too, and think they also do stand-offs to match.

It’s a mandatory requirement to fit the Quooker filter and scale reducer before the unit or it invalidates the warranty so that’s not an issue.

I’ve seen Maslow are looking at a new version with everything mounted on the sled which will be interesting. Most CNC really only need 25mm cutting depth and makes it easier to drive a rigid Z axis.

So your plumber didn’t read the instructions ..?? What else has he missed..?? You either need ion exchange or reverse osmosis to remove salt/sodium, although a lot of the ion sodium removal ones are questionable on their capabilities and what they replace the sodium with. Is it not possible to alter the plumbing to make just the kitchen supply bypass the softener and then either use the salt container in the dishwasher or install one of the in-line polyphosphate softeners in the hose for the dishwasher..?

I would split bathrooms off - even en-suite ones - as you may not want heating in bedrooms late spring / early autumn but still want to dry out bathroom floors and reduce any condensation. Likewise and works fine although the install is using a time switch and a floor probe set to 28°C to control temperature. With hindsight I would also install either a duct or an encased one wire probe in the bathroom floors in future as NTC thermal probes are fairly poor in comparison.

got it in one !! They are pretty crap, we switch everything off and only use it as a DHCP server and then use TP Link mesh

depends what you call “similar jobs”..? Devil is in the details and some small jobs can be an utter nightmare and need some proper planning and pipe work runs that at first sight look easy. Couple of itemised estimates will help as you can at least see what’s included.