PeterW

Dryfix foam and something like Rawl multiplugs every 4-600mm will be fine.

Zinc will add naff all - what’s the rest of the build up..? Assume there is OSB and insulation sandwich in there somewhere ..?

Why not use EDPM or GRP..? Would get the seamless gutter then ..? And probably less likely to creep as metal gutters may expand in hot weather

Siebel Eltron make 10kW inline heaters but it’s irrelevant for a bath as they have to have anti-scald prevention to limit the output to 45°C

As many say, it doesn’t self level unless you’ve got a very wet subfloor and it’s all been properly primed, and the you still need to work it with either a trowel or a spiked roller or both. It’s also normally not suitable as a final wearing surface (a few are but are expensive) so you’ll still need something on top. I would power float and then use some sort of mat system as they will also be slightly warmer under foot.

Looking at the list how many need to go through the wall..?? And why have you got a mix of 10/15mm to basins ..? Make them all 10mm..!

why not ..?? Don’t need to core drill, big standard SDS is fine.

If that is a 15mm pipe coming through the wall then it needs a 22mm conduit which any decent SDS will do in about 60 seconds, 10N blocks too..! (Just not padstones..!!!) Drill at 45° from the kitchen side and shove the conduit in and then feed in the pipes and it’s time for tea and biscuits Just follow the purple line and job done

Around £130/m shotblast/primed ex works Ex VAT was last quote I saw on 6.1m lengths

Trend hinge and lock jig, and a corner chisel, self centering drill bit and you won’t go wrong.

I still prefer pump and blender as you can use it to recirculate heat around the building if you get plenty of solar gain on one floor area. I would go minimum 20 litre low loss header and manifold pump and you should be fine

Depending on the heat loss, it’s as simple as pick one to match about 125% of the load, 2 port buffer and standard UFH from there on. Not much more to it ..??

Bonkers Numbers !!! How much did you pay him ..? £43k for mechanical installations ..?? £36k for electrical ..?? You can do those both for less than 20% of that ..!!

Would have to be a fixed term contract but I think you would then end up with issues on EErs NI etc plus you would be liable for holiday and sick pay etc. Also not sure the bank are correct as they wouldn’t count an FTC as anything more than a 12 month income

Your QS is smoking crack That is the simplest design I’ve seen ..! use an insulated raft (Kore or similar) and you fix a lot of your issues. nice logical layout with upstairs over service / plant spaces What are the final finish materials ..? Is that driving the cost ..?

Solartrix are only available in 1200x400 at 60w, so given a 14m2 roof is most likely 4m x 3.5m, and allowing a 300mm border on all edges you would get a maximum of 2 columns and 8 rows in reality which would be 16 cells or 960W. 4 standard panels using a GSE or easyroof system would give 1600W in the same space. Could give a better example with the full roof dimensions

Similar to the above, we tend to put a concrete collar round the rings at about 300mm down and then brick up 4 courses with engineering bricks and infil around the rings. Then it’s a cover over the top, the new composite ones are light but strong too, and not massively expensive

Welcome ..! So 2.5x is a very big variation - first question would be did you tell the architect the budget..? Next questions would be what is the gross floor area, your budget, their prices and finally how do you plan to build ..? (Main contractor, manage yourself etc…?) Plans are always useful here too - just remove any personal info and addresses..!

As the title, has anyone fitted anything similar to this, and what is in the MIs or guidance around the actual insert ..? Does it need to be cement board for example ..? https://www.livingandhome.co.uk/products/35inch-47inch-indoor-under-tv-bio-ethanol-fireplace-wall-mounted-biofire

No - it should be designed at optimal centres for the heat loss based on flow and heat requirements. 16mm Water & inhibited antifreeze 125% of -5°C design load 120m @Nickfromwales prefers Ivar, I prefer Wunda… (but he also likes some other very odd things…..)

Where in the U.K. are you..? It can be removed but it’s a bit more challenging than just removing fibre as they need to break it up to suck it out but it does come out in the end. To be honest I would look at something like EWI as it will be easier in the long run, more efficient and less mess.

If it’s T&G and glued then it’s not going to bend any more than the rest of the board. Just carry on - the Yuuchoob experts really do have some weird ideas about what materials can and can’t do.

The stuff they insulate camper vans is good - its a stick on foam and you can build it up in layers so do gaps between ribs and then go over the top. It also helps with sound deadening too. Plenty of it about and on eBay - look for Dodo foam.

Why..? polyurethane glue is activated on contact with moisture ..! Damp will make it foam better.

Its almost likely a Worcester Bosch unit and Bosch bought IVT who are one of Scandinavia’s oldest heat pump manufacturers. Very reliable, good sources of parts and excellent technical support from IVT