PeterW

If you mean the D2 discharge from the PRV then it has to be capable of taking significant flow at potentially greater than 95°C which means you need a specialist pump - they are about £600 and I think it’s @puntloos who has had to look at this for a basement solution. If you’re retrofitting anyway, take the floor up and put a 28mm copper pipe to the external wall as you’ll have around 12m to play with and unless you have a massive house this isn’t an issue usually

That’s some dog$hite blockwork ..! How’s the wall plate going to be held down as your straps will be a challenge if the wall plate isn’t flush to the inside wall. To fix this I would install a wider wall plate and let it overhang into the cavity but be flush to the inner face.

Before you do that, try balancing the system using the commissioning caps and not the actuators. Then replace and try again.

Highly unlikely that it will be - get a laser thermometer to check

Could always increase the diameter of the flue to compensate for flow rates however it’s not as easy to calculate - any way you can make the 45° into 22.5° as that’s classed as near vertical and less restrictive

Reed bed ..??

He’s an idiot… ok so start logging the tank temps every hour .. you’ll see if it gets to temperature and needs to hold it - what’s the system temp set at ..? about 25°C to get anything like a decent amount ..! @HandyAndy is this a plate heat exchanger thermal store or a coil one..? Probably a McDonald Engineering one if you’re north of the border ..

Plume management kit would do it out of the side if possible but I would just put celotex on the ceiling and be done with it

So let’s start with the heat loss calculation and then can decide if this statement is true, along with the heat emitter you are using (UFH / Rads) and then you can decide what heat input you need. From that, you’re into the spec of the ASHP which will cap out at around 16kW output. On a COP of 2.5, that’s about 27A max current. Single phase supplies are 80A or 100A in the UK unless you’re on an old pole transformer so you have no issue with using single phase unless you’ve got a horrendously leaky and poorly insulated house…

Pretty sure someone on here (Jeremy possibly ..?) was told BH an agent his near passive place was worth 10% less or something due to it being “non standard”…

I would hazard a guess in that they are very “bespoke” to their owners plus may struggle to recoup any sort of profit on the cost of build and certification..!

What should be banned ..? Stoves ..? Biomass boilers..? Log gasification boilers ..? Oil boilers..? All sources of PM2.5 and all perfectly acceptable including some receiving “eco” grants very recently ..! That’s debatable - there are also now issues and concerns on brake dust from vehicles including any road vehicle (inc EV) due to the changing of materials used contributing to the lack of significant drop in background PM emissions

its not legally enforceable as “guidance only” and will be subject to legal challenge. I have a draft version - will see if I can find the published one Edited to add I’ve now found the link - here

Dig a parallel trench, lay it in 110mm uPvC and then cut this into the stack and main connection and just crush the old clay with the machine and backfill accordingly.

Could use 120mm of PiR and then float a Fermacell routed solution over the top if you’re using a hard surface finish like tiles. Other option is 22mm chipboard but make sure the UFH track layer is perfectly flat. Liquid screed would need 50mm min so you’ll need 170-180mm overall build up depth available which may be a challenge at external doorways

Add a toilet into a building with a sink (and space for a shower with a floor gulley already installed) as part of your original plans along with a provision for a utility sink - none of which is unreasonable in a garage or outbuilding. Then when it’s signed off, you add a shower tray over the floor waste, and then put a self contained kitchen such as one of these into where the utility sink is - again not required to be notified. https://elfinkitchens.co.uk/product-category/cupboard-kitchen/

Was this by a heat pump salesman..?? It all needs designing and a lot of the “just hook an ASHP to UFH” advice is badly considered and may not perform anywhere close to what it could do with a few hours design and a couple of extra components.

Your heating circuit should already have one with a minimum of 15% of system volume - if not you are in danger of damaging the heat exchanger in the heat pump. Who designed this system..?

+1 to this ..! Volumetric mixer, bring him back every time and you’ll get a consistent mix and no backache.. SE may also insist on a “known” ratio which unless you make some gauging boxes you can’t do with a mixer and a labourer

@zoothorn they are £20 for a stretcher in B&Q of all places ..! https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-aluminium-extendable-knee-kicker/3663602666417_BQ.prd

Nope you’re thinking of a stretcher and you can hire them but you can make one if you’re careful…! Only thing to tuck it down is a normal 4” bolster chisel.

So not difficult to do steps if they are already done, as you take them up, use the old ones as a pattern and then refit them. Spray glue on the risers and the treads are probably stapled on. same sort of thing with the other carpet - take the old one out and then lay it on the new one, trace round and add an inch all round then cut it out. You can hire knee pullers but tbh it’s not that hard in a small room to heel it into place.

got a United Carpets near you ..? A decent £15/m carpet plus underlay should be £300 fitted. No idea why you think near £500..?

How big is the room..??

Got it in writing from the first inspector ..?? Not sure who’s told you that but copper nails don’t stop moss - you can get it on any roof. Copper nails don’t corrode as quickly which is why they are used with slates. Aluminium nails are fine with tiles as usually tiles are hooked over the battens and therefore if the nail fails then the tile doesn’t move.