PeterW

Corner one looks like the render bead has blown and moved - what sort of render is it ..? Sand and cement..? @nod any thoughts ??

Trend door jig and hinge jig off Amazon. Set it up once and never change it, will make it dead easy to do and then re-sell on here .. There are imitation ones but the trend ones are the best

That is why if you ever take both hands off the saw you put the chain brake on without fail …. Even on an electric !!

What is your waterproofing strategy for the tiled areas ..?

Get a £250 drone that has position hold and cameras that feed back to your phone. You’re on your own property - flick it over the roof 2/3 times a year and just record the video if you’re worried.

Yeh +1 to blown bead and at wider cavities too. Got a couple of installers we have used in the past

Use a hidden gutter run alongside the stonework and lapped into it, then cut the slates to fit with a 50mm nominal gap - don’t try and use soakers

@crispy_wafer just on your layout - and this may seem odd, but I wouldn’t tee everything off before you get to the UVC control set with the exception of the outside tap (which also needs an isolator along with a DCV) as you then won’t have balance issues on mixer taps etc.

board and skim - MR plasterboard - and then install. Also give it all a coat of Super Leytex when there is nothing in there too as it is much nicer working with painted walls !!

Resin bond or resin bound are different and are also permeable in different grades too.

Isolator on the inside - which you should have anyway along with a non-return valve. Just turn it off when you go away.

they don’t have that many engineers and a lot are just rebadged gas fitters so you’re better off finding a local refrigeration company with most failures on ASHP being on the f-gas side and all Vaillant will do is plug it in and check the errors.

which one and does it keep the colour better ..?

Completion for what..? BCO, warranty or mortgage ..? Each has different requirements

Nitromors or the caustic peel strip stuff is the best - you reduce the risk of burning the underlying wood and having to sand down to remove damage.

Look at stepped forward facing rails used in shop fitting as an alternative as they also provide varied hanging lengths depending on the coats

That NHBC guidance is incorrect as it does not include Note 3 from Table 5 of Approved Document A, which refers to cavities of over 175mm (of which this is) and a requirement for 125mm or 62.5mm embedment in each wall. Ancon have an easier to read version here and the full version is here on Page 23.

BS:845-1 and Approved Document A state cavity plus 125mm and then select the nearest standard length. Search around though as I’ve seen 350mm cheaper than 325mm..!

Yep .. I’ve heard all sorts, and it’s mildly scary what you find on snagging visits especially if you go during build. The scariest one was a steel sitting on a pair of padstones with one that was visibly tilting sideways sound 20mm from vertical as the “packing” was some bits of cardboard off a sandwich… “it’s ok, plasterer will skim that out” was the response when asked what they were doing with it…

yes - my “real world” is as a partner in a consultancy that does M&E design for architects and other construction projects … it’s the stuff done prior to the house being built… it’s called design stage and produces the specifications and plans that BCO require … far from industry standard - the industry uses the Approved Documents as the standard, along with other sources like Robust Details to define agreed approaches. The NHBC “standard” along with the LABC “standard” are used by their inspectors for warranty purposes - they are essentially their additions to the ADs (as per above) which they require to meet their warranty terms. Issue is that on a large build site their standard inspections are applied 1:3 or 1:4 of each design on the plot - that can mean inspecting only 6 or 7 houses in a 30 house development. The rest ..? Well, I’ll let you make your own mind up.

More than likely it’s not chipped off but is falling off due to damp as the paving is up against the wall. Where is the damp proof course in that wall.? Level with the bottom of the render ..?

never had NHBC on site as never used their warranties nor had reason to - they won’t do small sites and the warranty is worth slightly less than bog roll. Use independent BCO and all done to the ADs unless pre-agreed at design stage and then it’s checked against design

err cos the NHBC isn’t BCO..? Which you’ve still not explained why the BCO would fail it which is where this started… Also, the drainage design guide is part of the British standard - the NHBC guide is part of an expensive insurance business that has zero value in regulation or law and can be ignored and regularly is…

System volume is reasonably irrelevant, you have to work on the minimum volume of the shortest loop, which even with a 100m 16mm PeX is around 14 litres. A heat pump that can modulate down to 1kW will still reach delta 7°C reheat in 8 mins so you’ve got a short cycle issue. Shorter loop, smaller volume and bigger issue

incorrect assumption.. 🫣 put a 2 port buffer in, ASHP stat on the buffer and then carry on as previous.