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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. What insurances does your company hold ..? Ours went up 400% when we looked at becoming Principal Designer so we canned it and leave that to the architects and will only subcontract to them and not to domestic clients.
  2. Tiles can feel cold under foot and for the £40-50 for a kit it can make it nicer. Get a level to the floor and see where the high spots are. Your floor needs to be perfect or the wall tiles will show up the difference. You start with the thinnest smear of adhesive under the highest board and level as you go.
  3. What’s going on the walls..? And nothing needed between the board edges as the flex adhesive will sort that as you butt them together. Don’t forget to start with your highest point first and also remember where your drains are going. Are you planning any sort of electric tile heating ..?
  4. Make sure the brickies use full perp ends and not a smear and it makes life easier - ask them to point blockwork too. Wrap the joist ends a la Tony Tray.. Airtight tape on windows is expensive but makes a dramatic difference and doesn’t have the issues silicone can have sometimes
  5. kitchen sinks are 40mm not 32mm.. ducting them individually is a good idea, use either 32mm or 40mm PVC and use a pair of 45° bends to get them out of the slab as the Hep2O will like you for it … don’t foam them in, they won’t make that much noise. finished is it …….?? 🙄
  6. possibly .. are you trying to daisy chain 2 hubs from the original one ..? Phantom power/injector may be the only option but you need to know your total load and work back from it. Problem is I don’t know of any domestic type PoE++ hubs that are suitable. No way of getting cctv shotgun cable to the cameras ..?
  7. Alternative is to use an injector and then split out at the new hub which can sometimes give you more power than the ~85W you get on PoE+ from memory.
  8. Hammer and bolster and work from the ‘safe’ side. Downside will be that for insurance purposes it goes on your claims as they can’t recover it - they will only pay to rebuild it, and even then with excess it will probably be net cost to you anyway. could always take a video of it rocking and photos from all sides and drop it over the weekend for safety reasons and show the assessor the images / video.
  9. Good opportunity for fixing the unprotected twin & earth running round too …!
  10. that worries me - you are paying an architect (hopefully !) for their ideas, if you just want someone to draw yours then go to an AT..!
  11. TBH I would want to know if this is for you to build and sell (CIL is an issue as is VAT) or to build and live in..? If the latter then does the shape / size etc give you what you want or are you doing it to just make the money and move on ..?
  12. There something wrong with those statements… full fibre on FTTP is an underground product not a pole based product, so what they are probably offering is FTTC at your nearest cabinet which could be over 2 miles away. Ask OR for the line capacity they are installing - I would expect that it is max 85Mbps which is overhead copper rate limiting. I would also go with one of the providers who offer a speed guarantee. For reference we paid £82 connection fee for a property for a new catenary from the pole to a property, so I think you have had a quote for FTTP but will be getting FTTC.
  13. Looks like a mirror of next door ..? Pull the planning for that from your council portal and make sure you answered any points in their planning officer approval. One issue you may have is use of the garage - it’s at 90° to the drive and you won’t turn a car there - and also about requiring to leave the properly in forwards gear, you don’t have space for a turning circle so the highways officer may object.
  14. That is extra load on the assumption there is no internal insulation though and it’s exposed ends. 150mm cavity isn’t close to passive levels so it’s probably negligible and not going to get any impact on SAP - air tightness score will be the biggest impact with a build like that.
  15. Looks like a pair of lintels there - can’t see the stickers properly. As long as the SEng is ok with substitution then insulating the gap (PIR foamed and trimmed) will be better than the standard EPS inserts anyway. Also seems to be an additional Concrete lintel on the inside - what’s going on there or is that a very deep reveal ..?? Mould risk..? Zero if you’re ventilating correctly.
  16. Yes fine - what’s the outer face of the dormer going to be ..?
  17. And the VAT man cometh ..!! They have got wise to that and there are horrendous tax implications
  18. nope it is measured from the surrounding existing ground level. not really - I’m not talking a fully tanked sort of thing, just dropping the rear down into the ground by 1m (which is 5 steps) and build a retaining wall either side then you’ve got very little issue unless you have very high water table or have very shallow drain runs (but this can be designed out) and a short patio / terrace gives you enough for lots more headroom.
  19. If you can dig down a metre, then you can get a semi basement and gain the extra height. Also look at a celestory ridge line to throw more light into the centre of the build and reduce solar gain.
  20. Use a proper spirit level and both ways round as laser levels can be notorious for being out unless they are decent (ie expensive) brands.
  21. Vane anemometers are not reliable for low flows - they can’t really get over the initial start up “flow” required to get a good reading. Your calcs are correct though - 3.3l/s in a 65mm dia duct is ~1m/s Decent calculator here
  22. Rockwool between, PIR over the top. Done a few like that and run the battens horizontal to hold back the fibre and then infill with 25mm insulation, tape the joints and board over the top
  23. Why would you want 45KVA..??! 30KVA is 135A on 3 phases - that’s pretty significant loading and even with an all electric house you’ll struggle to pull that unless you’re doing something vastly wrong !! With the right design you will struggle to pull 45A on a single phase even with the hob/ovens/tumble dryer and all the lights on..
  24. Single pass with a planer set to 0.5mm will tidy that up
  25. Dear god was that done by blind bob the roofer ..???! That flashing is shocking - I hope you’ve not paid for that ..??!
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