PeterW

Use my [Patented] Stainless Steel pan scourer method ! And if you want to stop them moving, just retain with a quick squirt of gun foam and they don't move. @JSHarris used it to block the bottom of his cladding and I've used it on a cement sheet roof to stop squirrels

I think you may struggle to get a proper temperature / flow on the UFH if you lose the manifold mixers as the whole of the 3 UFH circuits will become a homogeneous flow that has little control. You can feed TS water at 65c to the manifolds - they will only take what they need and then circulate the rest. Slightly off the wall - excuse this one - but if you are only looking for minor heat/cool from the duct heater, can you not run it as a separate circuit on the UFH.?? Downside is you can't give it very cold water in the summer as the floor won't be below 16 or so, but is it worth a thought..?

Looks OK ...! Are you blending down the water to the UFH for a reason from the TS..? The manifolds will do this anyway, could be another component to lose..? Also, a pump won't stop flow - if you really want to isolate the duct unit it will have to be via a valve. Looks pretty neat and simple though !

Shared septic tank ..?? sounds like a fun one to sort if they are putting rainwater into it especially if it's going into the river as it will wash through pretty easily !

Pleased to hear that ! Reading his blog about damp and old buildings is an eye opener - he has little respect for mortgage company surveyors ..!! So don't keep us in suspense, what did he find ..??

How wide is that span..?? 254 UC of that size is going to be close to £140 a metre, and at 6 metres to the tonne you're looking at probably close on to 2.5 tonnes per frame..? have they provided any flange or joint information as those angles on the 90 X 90 columns are going to need to be plated and designed carefully. I'd look at 4 sections - the base, the side / roof legs in two halves and then the supporting 100 X 100 column. £5k isn't that unreasonable tbh

Once pulled a 40ft artic with a series 3 diesel.... Low box and lots of revs ! Most amusing thing I pulled across a carpark was a Suzuki Vitara "FatBoy" after its owner who I worked with said that his was "more powerful".... One 5 tonne strop, Low 1 with 4 wheel drive engaged and I happily pulled him across the carpark whilst his spinning tyres left two black lines on the tarmac

Charnwood can be expensive too when you get up the scale ! BiL has one and wanted to swap for a Charnwood double sider and it came in at nearly £2k..!

We looked at Clearview in Stow and even met one of the guys who make the hoods for them - they are very well made but are north of the £12-1500 mark for anything that is around the 5-8kw mark.

I spoke to one of our potential suppliers (uPVC... but that's due to planning atm) and they said they didn't recommend using brackets on their windows and that they should be fixed using screws direct into the brick. I plan to look at both so I may put "skewed" screws through the frame into the brick but also support back into the blockwork with brackets. A lot of it is how the volume providers do their stuff is not best practice, just standard practice...

On the panels, I found cutting the corner off one where there was a 3 way connect was the best way to stop them lifting. Wunda now do the trays too - £4.50 each if you buy 12

+1 on the HG products ! Very good for a lot of stuff.

Good luck getting anyone from Polypipe to site other than a rep who wants to sell you the whole shebang ! I put Onoff onto the panels - I used them with Sp33dFit pipe (before I saw the light, don't judge me @Nickfromwales) and they were great. Made it very quick to lay the floor and easy to walk on. You end up needing slightly less concrete as the dimples take up some space. As to cable ties onto mesh, its been done for years and once encapsulated in concrete there is no way that mesh is rusting away..! Just go your own way and do what feels right...

I've found the tank in tank system took up more room than less - they need 150 or so litres in the primary, so anything usable is around 300l in total. If you have decent insulation, a small (150l) ASHP heated tank is tiny, and you can ask Telford (other manufacturers are available....) to add additional insulation. You can also ensure the cupboard it's stored in has insulated walls to reduce the heat loss.

Question to ask BC is what documentation do they need from your SEng for the piling design - don't ask them if they want a new 20m hole or the answer will always be yes !

What's the flow rate of the ASHP...? That will be the limiting factor in this I expect

I'll give you £50 for it and a camping stove ....

Yep - but if you use over fascia ventilation and these trays, where do they go..??

So where do you cut off the membrane ..??!

I'd look at flow rates before you discount them - are these 15 or 22 mm valves ..? Flow rates from ASHP are quite low as are UFH which is why I queried the low loss header use

I "think" it the ventilation between tiles/steel and the membrane itself here - hence the need for airflow above the membrane.

I plan on using a dry vented ridge and the instructions on that are pretty clear about how the venting works however its the eaves like you that I'm looking at as suggested approach is OSB / eaves protector / membrane over the top, but where does the ventilator go..?

I love filling jobs...! Decent clean sharp filling knife, cut up 4pt milk containers as mixing cups and this stuff.... http://www.wickes.co.uk/Polycell-Polyfilla-Alabastine-Powder-Filler-1-8kg-Pack/p/228112 Sooooo much better than any of the other stuff - the premix plaster filler is the work of the devil !

Insulation... cheap and cheerful EPS will do to stop the condensation. Also worth ventilating them if possible - I know one used as a store that has two tiny PC fans and in one end and a grille in the door, fans are powered by a £10 solar panel and works fine.

Depends what he uses and he is right - the layers with spray are very quick and consistent and you will get rapid drying.