PeterW

Ark has been mentioned, as has BuildStore and a couple of others.

£1 extra gets you these http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-rocut-38-direct-cut-pipe-shears-0-38mm/48561 I use these for everything up to waste pipe and they are great.

I was advised so - you can get the coating onto the tongue and groove so you don't miss any bits.

Airless sprayer with a fan setting then ..! And lay out a couple of pieces side by side and get spraying ...

Are you planning on treating it or just leaving it to weather ..? One tip I was given was to spray the timber before fitting using a Sadolin treatment so the whole board got a coat. It does shrink slightly but not so much that you can see it. Your other option is to wait until it shrinks slightly and fit it, but if it swells then it could warp as its got nowhere to expand to.

Another option is to use a Hotwire to cut a flush trough parallel to the ceiling and then stick the tape into this..?? What is the internal wall finish ..? Board or plaster ..?

That's about right. One thing that is worth considering is just using 25mm PIR and ordinarily plasterboard as it's a lot cheaper than the insulated stuff and you can foil tape all the joints.

Out of interest have you added any logging / sensors to the house ..? Would be good to get a view on how it does perform in your build and in "real life" rather than in a test.

What are the surfaces of the ICF block like..? Can you tape to them or would it leave a hit and miss gap..?

What are you saying about my ability to use a spirit level..??!!

Jane - if the rafters are over a span of more than 3.5m then they will be 150x50 - to get 0.16 you can part fill with 140mm PIR and then overboard with 35mm PIR which is the same depth as using the foil plus the batten Hope that helps

Ask who...?? I'm the builder... I will be using Fermacell on the walls and using that on metal stud both sides is pretty bomb proof and feels very solid. There are very few internal stud walls due to layout so it's a speed vs hassle discussion on using metal or timber.

So I've used it... Installed 7 years ago (Actis Tri-Iso 9) in a large extension. And have the data to prove that it doesn't work as described hence my comments being what they are. It has low/nil sound insulation, is pretty poor at heat insulation in the summer and it works 'OK' in the winter however some of that is down to the detailing in how I installed it and ensured that there were no gaps at all at the edges and every joint was double taped. The one I used was part of the legal / advertisement retraction and had the certificate revocation due to how it was calculated. The whole set of discussions (including all tests) is here http://www.lifespacedesign.co.uk/msc/Foil.pdf In my experience I wouldn't reuse it due to the issues I've had and now that I've lived with it and also read a LOT more than the sketchy data that was originally available.

Plan is to use metal stud so expanding foam may not work - it does give me a bit more flexibility in locating studs on pins.

If there is a pole on his land there will be a way leave in place normally - if he's the sort of person you describe then I guarantee he will have insisted on one..!! If it's in front of the fence then regardless of him cutting the hedge it may well be in the council verge

It's a marmite product !!! It's not a "true" insulation the way a lot of normal insulation works and tbh it's useless at stopping noise transfer which they don't tell you. You can easily hit 0.16 with standard insulation - have a look on the Kingspan website as they have a quick calculator that shows you how to do it.

Most mixers need 5-10c difference between hot and cold so unless you're getting a big increase in temperature then it's unlikely you will get close to the differential limit

The answer is usually it's the operating weight give or take a bit. JCB are the most accurate with their model specs - the 8018 is approx 1.8 tonnes, and so on. It also depends on the model additions as it's usually the base unit with roll cage that is the class - for example the new Bobcat comes with an option of a heated cab with lots of toys and that adds over 250kg to the base model. Spec Guide is a US site but is helpful on a lot of the models we have over here too - also useful for working out how big they are to transport ! http://www.specguideonline.com/search/compact-excavators When you get into the 3T range you're out of the normal limits on the standard C+E licence as you will need a trailer that's heading over the 1T weight to start with. Most of the plant companies use beaver tail 7.5 tonners for those anyway but even then they have to be careful as you can soon rack up the maximum limit.

Ok so two manifolds is probably the right answer ..!! You can get low powered valves with 12-24v actuators that may do what you want - look for ones suitable for air usage too as they normally seal 100% by design. Downside is usually there is a smaller orifice so unlike a 22mm valve having an 18mm orifice, these only have 8-10mm Plenty of examples here http://www.solenoid-valve.world/by-material/brass-solenoid-valve/hvac-actuated-valve?gclid=CjwKEAjwkPS6BRD2ioKR7K245jASJAD1ZqHOK0Rj6MMhSry7z0TP1EEyiA3d6Nd523N2uEo97YLJphoCNKXw_wcB

Yep that's the ones..!

Scrap them.... and spend the money on new ! It seems false economy but they are old colours and you have no idea where any breaks or damage has occurred during stripping. I can't see any reason to keep it - sorry !

Does anyone have a decent source of MDPE fittings..? I'm looking for... 7 x 25mm equal tee 3 x 25mm elbow 4 x 25mm female 3/4 BSP 1 x 25mm to 3/4 BSP Tap 1 x 25mm male 3/4 BSP 1 x 25mm End Stop 2 x 25mm to 22mm copper This lot so far has been from £65-£140..... There must be a cheaper way !

I like the marking out on the EPS to show where walls are - I'm looking at using a self compacting / levelling concrete to remove the problem of levelling, but I want to weld in threaded studs to fix the stud walls down prior to pour. Marking walls would make that easier !

OK - so I can't see the point in the heat exchanger in the circuit as you are better off just letting the cold circulate to the UFH as it won't really have that much capacity in the system and there seems to be no circ pump on the heating side of the H-Ex and I don't think the UFH will pull enough to keep a decent flow. Why two UFH manifolds..? Can you not get all the circuits off one..? I'd also consider adding the MVHR coil as a circuit to the UFH manifold. Losing the H-Ex I think I can get it down to 2 x 3 way valves which would be on the ASHP - Hot and Cold - and 2 x 2 way on the feed from the TS to the UFH. In heating mode, ASHP would be to A, feeding into the TS and the UFH >> TS valves would be open. In cooling mode, ASHP would be to B, UFH >> TS valves closed and chilled water would be circulated to the floor and the MVHR coil. Would that work for you..?

Between 1 and 5 you need an air gap - its a pain ! It's the reason why rainwater fill systems need a tundish arrangement as they cannot bridge between mains and rainwater even when it has been filtered and purified.