PeterW

If you look the clinker boards run the "wrong" way upturned but I'm sure with a couple of templates you could make a new one..... add it to the list !

Hep2O is much better than speed fit ..! There are manifolds - Nick posted a link to them last week but I will find it. Waste is waste - usual rules of no joints where you can't see or work on them, and use solvent weld where possible as seals leak

Ed - you can download a product called loopCAD free for 30 days which allows you to play with the layouts. When you provide the u values etc it can calculate heat loss and therefore heat load based upon the number of loops in a slab etc and the temperature of the water. I've done a couple where it suggests 150mm in some rooms and 200mm in others. As long as you use a sleeve you can go through walls however it's usually easier going through the doorway if possible Couple of schools of thoughts on the rebar and cable tie solution as some have done it (Jeremy I think) and some have put a clip system in first and then put mesh over which lifts the mesh but protects the pipes.

Just checked and these are Climaveneta units - made by Mitsubishi basically ! I've asked for the manual but they seem pretty reasonable - not sure where I'm going to put it yet...

I've done 3 doors recently with the stuff from Amazon It is quite easy to do if you follow the instructions, get a decent squeegee and use plenty of soapy water....! Its difficult to comprehend but you spray the soapy water on the adhesive side of the film too ...! Makes it move a bit and then you squeegee out the air and the water and it sticks...

If you are using the TS as a pre-heat to the sunamp then it won't really matter - there is some whizzy thermodynamic calcs you can do that show how a TS works against a UVC in terms of heat delivery, but increasing its capacity from 300 litres to 400 litres offsets this. Not sure what you mean by dual coil..? Essentially a TS is the full body of water as the store, and there is a finned coil in the tank that allows mains pressure cold to be heated as it passes through. It is open to all sources and the UFH so has no coils needed in reality. The benefit of the TS is that you can draw off the UFH low down (directly) and not affect the stratification - you have to watch the positioning of the immersions though as you can cause problems when you heat right at the bottom - tends to upset the tank so I would go for 2/3rds down and "live" with the bottom of the tank being the last to be heated by convection but by the time you're getting to 60+ at the bottom of the tank, you will have 70+ at the top and no issues with hot water !

Go with the Easyroof system then - it's nearly identical and should be fine

Replace the UVC with a TS - use it as the buffer for the UFH and also have a secondary dump load immersion in it for the times the sunamp is full. No legionella issue, UFH as a buffer and the ASHP doesn't cycle as much....

Frustrating that they are going to appeal by the looks of it (Supreme Court..!) and waste more tax payers money ..!

WCs will be on 15mm rainwater feeds - 4,000 litres of storage under the driveway ! Happy with the rest on 10mm - just looked again and saw your 15-10 reducers on the manifolds. I had considered 22mm to the bath/shower mixer but still not convinced as I've got a 15mm feed to a rainwater shower currently and it easily copes.

3 way mixer IIRC has a replaceable cartridge - the all in one unit seems to be a weak point if it can't be replaced in the future. Like Jack I can't see the benefit of the Grundfos pump over Wilo

Welcome ! Which part of Cork...? I'm down in Clonakilty for work fairly frequently so know the airport well !

didnt see the built in isolators at first. Manifolds do seem the way to go ... 10mm to kitchen or not ...?

These guys were recommended to me - had 20 minutes on the phone to Richard but due to estate agents I never got to take him up on the services but he knows his stuff. http://www.heritage-consulting.org/homebuyers-surveys

So someone is buying Tiemme 1" manifolds and adding Hep2O tap connectors..? anything wrong with the all plastic versions ..??

Pretty pipe work ..! Who supplied the manifolds Nick..?

So I've been looking at layouts and pretty much set now on having a 300 litre UVC as the main DHW supply for the house. This will be heated to 50 ish by the ASHP with an overnight kick once a week with the immersion to 65 for the legionnaires cycle. It will also be the dump for the solar PV - I expect in summer given the tank immersion will be at 65 ish then the hot will be very hot ! Question is - TMV, where and how many ..? Ensuite has the bath and shower, bathroom only has a shower (long story), downstairs wc and then there is kitchen and utility. Everything is designed for short pipe runs, with the longest being 8m to the bath. So do I ... - reduce everything to 43c at the UVC with one TMV - install two TMV set to 43 / 50 respectively and feed the kitchen and utility from the hotter one - do nothing and warn everyone the water is hot ..?! Plan is mixers everywhere with potentially a 3 way shower valve with bath filler in the Ensuite thoughts ..?

Depends on how it's been designed..! trusstech send a design doc with their deliveries that shows the support points - looking at that other thread you would need to know what the span was and if that wall was classed as a support wall. Just from looking I would say that those trusses have been designed as full span and there may be a point in the build where they are a full open span. It's quicker and cheaper for the designers to do 35 of one design, rather than do 3 or 4 different ones as the danger with that is that either the roof ends up out of alignment or the wrong truss goes in the wrong place ! I was quoted £4 per truss more for a bottom chord at 190mm than 100mm - on a 7m span you can't even buy the timber to do that yourself so it was a no brainer.

Newark do a horizontal TS... Was about £1100 IIRC when I enquired.

Linzer Pro frame with Arroworthy microfibre sleeves - 18" and will cover a lot of ground very quickly !

Shouldn't that be HWMO...???

Fujitsu split units come up on eBay a lot - they are about £200 for the duct unit plus the condenser

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272209537849 6.7kw - not sure if use to anyone here but brand new Edit: just looked and has a couple of larger ones too

IIRC a 100A fuse will run up to 125A or so before blowing anyway. The ASHP bit is a myth too - most have a max draw of around COP 1.5 so for a 12Kw it is 8Kw input and 32A supply.That assumes they don't have backup heaters in them !

The Titon seems a lot cheaper - £1200 vs £1900 if a quick web search is to be believed..? What are filter costs..?