PeterW

3:1 I think and cheapo standard is fine - it's on the back of the container as to the ratio for sealing concrete I think

OK so looks like these are much simpler than their commercial cousins in operation from the manual - I had expected they had the 2 wire connector but obviously not ! Ideal for integration with something like a PIC or Arduino based solution but not for interfacing with an off the shelf controller. http://planetaklimata.com.ua/instr/Mitsubishi_Electric/Mitsubishi_Electric_LGH-50RSDC-E_User_Manual_D_Eng.pdf

Ok this is pretty simple - look at TM2 and TM3 and you can control most things. The common needs to connect to one or more of the speed pins - these are NO volt free contacts. If you connect TM3 PB to ground then it opens the summer bypass Not sure what logic it applies to seeing ground on more than one speed pin. You can control the boost switching at what level by just choosing which pairs you use

Can you take the cover off the main control box and take a photo of the board ..?? I can tell you which connections are which from that.

I've noticed that the trend is to teach that the flux does the job rather than the elbow grease which always surprises me. I "inherited" my dads old Laco tin which I only threw out and replaced with a new tin because it corroded..! That must have been 20 odd years old and still half full as I was taught you needed to clean first and then the flux was just enough to clean and allow the solder to flow. Saying that, I saw one of the lads I know (BG apprentice) do some lovely solder work that was all end feed and it was very neat but they have been banned from doing any hot work in lofts so he's now saying they are doing more and more with Hep2O. Another skill being lost .....

That looks much better !

I was told a 90c wash with the cheapest biological powder and your mucky overalls was the best way to keep a washer clean

Usually chuck half a bottle of injector cleaner in now and again as it certainly makes them smoke less. If it's got a paper drum filter on the air intake they are best changed fairly frequently - not expensive.

Youre in the law of diminishing returns there as you will be better off getting the walls and roof to the same level and air tight. 0.11 to 0.10 is negligible

OK... Informal chat with building control company has resulted in two things. We were going to use the LJ Joists for roof timbers but talking it through the BCO reckons it is creating a lot of extra work and cost. Notwithstanding that the beams are about 10% more than solid timber, he advised that due to the slope we would need a pretty comprehensive steels arrangement that would add to the cost. He's also said that even with an SE doing the calcs that the roof joists "could" take the loading at a 50 degree pitch he would be cautious as a warranty company may not agree and we would be caught in the middle of an expensive argument. I've agreed to go away and look at a standard cut roof but I'm slightly lost as to where to start with this due to a couple of non-standard elements that aren't covered in the Trada tables (50 degree pitch for one) and one section where there are no floor binders so there is no lateral restraint other than the collar binder. To explain further, we have a maximum span of 4.6m, with a roof pitch of 50 degrees giving an unsupported span of 3.62m. Working from a nominal 225 x 38 ridge board, then we have no need for any purlins as the roof load of 0.86Kn/m2 doesn't create any issues if we were below 45 degrees as the Trada Tables here show the following at 600 centres : 15-22 deg slope 195 x 47 3.68m 22-30 deg slope 195 x 47 3.87m 30-45 deg slope 195 x 47 3.99m Logic would assume, and engineering would follow, that at 50 degrees we would be at around 4.03m, well in excess of the required span. This would be birdsmouth onto the 100 x 75 wallplate. For most of the build there is no issue as we have a binder at floor level, but for a 3.6m section we have nothing, just a 2.6m wall then rising to the ceiling. The plan was to put a binder in at around 600 down to allow for services, but I can't work out if this is enough or whether I'm going to need to put additional steel collar ties at the mid point. I'm not even sure how these are designed !! I've also got another issue that the ridge in this part is 7.6m between supports so would need to be a minimum of 7.8m. Given its not a structural member, is there any mileage in using a pair of I-beams with an OSB splice / infil as this would probably be the lightest and most cost effective idea ! Anyone have any ideas..?

225mm of PIR is a lot of insulation - what is your target uValue for the floor..? You could use Jetfloor and combine the insulation and beams, lose the blocks and the screed and make your life a lot easier. It would also be substantially thinner.

I'm planning a weak concrete mix as a footing followed by gravel and then topping off with concrete - they have a reinforced cage around them so as long as you are cautious to start with I don't think there are any issues. You can't drive over them though unless you put a good 8-10" of concrete on them so I'm planning them under the patio with some well placed "removable" slabs to allow me to get to the caps when needed. Only reason I'm using 5 micron and carbon is that its feeding toilets and the outside taps, and potentially the washing machine however as Jeremy says this can cause problems - that much filtration plus ozone potentially should sort out the nasties all being well ! Other choice is to chlorine shock the tank occasionally - not ideal but could be done.

Sounds like a plan - I've looked at 2 layers of 25mm with counter battens holding the first layer and then screwing boards through the next layer as it may work better but I need to check ! Seconds & Co had a lot of 20/25mm recently at silly prices hence my thoughts.

That Recticel isn't a bad price but I can get the Frametherm for less than £4.60m2 online .... Have you got an account with this lot..? Not TP is it..??

Illuminated mirrors have come down in price a lot - most of the ones that are lit are also heated, and they fit into a steel box backing. We have one that has an IR sensor under it for switching on and off and its useless !!! On its second switch and have now given up and left it....

Unlikely that both basins would be running at the same time, or the bath and a basin so I would combine the basins and then run all the rest in 50mm which is what Nick normally recommends IIRC

My plan is 4 IBCs for storage with a 5th that is the attenuation tank for the soak away at the end of the run. They can be plumbed together fairly easily and then I'm looking at some sort of non-return between the last one (holding tank) in the run and the rest so it's the only one topped up in the event that there isn't enough rain. I've also considered sticking a cheap ozone generator into the holding tank that runs periodically to kill off any nasties. Will have both a 5 micron and carbon filter on the pumped outlet to keep as much out of the system as possible. As Jeremy says, filtration is the key and keeping silt and rubbish out. Wickes sell a really neat drain outlet that will help but I will also look at filters that can be cleaned too. Ive added up its about £300 worth of bits, and water usage is around £90-110 when you include the cost of water and sewerage charges per year, so a 3 year payback. If I went for one of the commercial systems then it's a non starter as they are too expensive !!

I've still got some of my dads tools that he had as an apprentice - lovely lead working tools and stuff like proper chisels. I've just handed on a set of stillsons to my eldest which I reckon must be 60 years old if not older

I didn't know that ...! I was pretty sure that the foam was inert but obviously not ..! Every day is a school day .!

Why not use 110mm ABS from the top of the rest bend as that will have a socket in it ..?

Nespresso machines in London hotels are now a defacto item as they have popped up everywhere. I stay at the Amba just off Marble Arch - permanent upgrade and exec lounge access, and usually an exec king or similar .. Some of the cheapest but best rooms in town can be the apartments - I used to use Bridgestreet and I had the penthouse of Atelier which is between Farringdon and Holborn for £120 a night ..! They sell the rooms off on Laterooms to fill the gaps between the long term bookings.

I don't use WD on tools as it evaporates. I use a wax that is designed for garden tools and a green scourer to work it into the rusty stuff and it leaves a nice layer of protection on the tools. 3 in 1 on any moving joints and job done - although my AC oil can is currently full of EP90 as it was the only stuff I had ..!

I've used this stuff before http://www.ukpoolstore.co.uk/acatalog/Wet___Dry_ABS___PVC_Glue.html It can be used for ABS to PVC but its not idea as you don't get a true welded bond. In the US you can get transition cement that allows you to connect ABS to PVC but its not easily available over here and certain states don't allow its use. The Polypipe gap stuff is epoxy resin and a small amount of solvent - thickened epoxy would work fine although it may be a bit expensive for one joint unless you have it lying around the place.

The Actis one goes up in 2 parts as far as I can see as it needs the membrane plus the battens etc. Its one area I would never skimp on - you can replace a cheap kitchen, you can't replace insulation without one heck of a mess !!

Yes using the Stadia Lines on the eyepiece - most have a 100 multiplier so are easy to read. Not entirely accurate but good enough for basic point finding. This guy explains it in less than 2 minutes..!